Traction with F-450 Ford

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Pacific

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I have a Ford F-Superduty truck 1.5 ton with a fladeck I use it for hauling firewood to lumber etc. The problem is the truck is 2wd I would like better traction I was wondering if any of you have used limited slips or lockers in a 2wd.

I can't afford to buy a 4x4 F-450 and I'am a bit concerned with the payload capacity of a F-350 4x4 cab and chassis.

The truck spends 70% on pavement or places where 2wd works fine but there are 30% of the time it is a real struggle to get out of driveways or a construction site.

Any Ideas
 
I know Detroit lockers are tough as nails what I'am worried about the clanking and banging.

Its not like I'am hardcore offroading with my truck my problems exist trying to get around a construction site or some of these driveways around here are a bit tough.

I don't get into places where I'am churning through axle deep mud or ground that is soft where the tires spin and sink.

If the customer wants me to haul or deliver some lumber or drop off a load of firewood it has to be in a decent spot. I will put a heavy bumper on the front of the truck where if I do get really stuck I have something I can hook a tow strap too.

A 1 ton truck just doesn't cut it nowwadays if you have to haul heavier loads. When I load a cord of wood onto my F-Superduty it feels safer than it did on my old F-350 2wd I had.

I also haul cedar and fir lumber from a local guy with a woodmizer mill some of those loads can be heavy.

I run a F-Superduty truck now but she is pretty tired I need to replace her it was a worn out truck when I put it together but I needed a cheap truck right away.
 
I would buy a new limited slip or locker that way I know it will be good you don't find many used parts for Dana 80 axles used in F-Superduty trucks.

A Detroit Locker 1100 dollars CND and a limited slip is a bit cheaper.

I do want to upgrade the bumper with something a bit beefier the stock front bumper is weak as toilet paper.

I wish a manufacturer in Canada built something similar to a Ranch Hand like you guys have in the US.
 
I have an 03 F450 with a factory limited slip and a Southco 11ft. chipbox. It has surprised me at the places that it will go, my main problem with traction is only on the front end. I would recomend a limited slip if you are on paved roads most of the time, I have heard tires squeal turning sharp corners with lockers.
 
Me again :D

I do travel quite a bit on paved roads the limited slip I would be after is the True Trac it doesn't use friction material it is a all gear unit.
 
I would use a tight limited slip. The geared limited slip is kinda hard to understand how it works. Here is the basic idea: it comes from the factory with a preset ratio that it uses. Lets say it is 2:1. The way it works is the tire that is spinning has x amount of traction before it breaks loose and spins. In my hypothetical case the other tire would be supplied 2 times x. So if you can get the tire to spin with it idling, then the other tire isn't going to get you out of the mud. Hummers (H1) use the same type, however they use the brakes to add "traction" to the spinning wheel, making it increadably effective.

I would use a high quality clutch packed (rebuildable) unit, that is loaded fairly high (with springs) to make it work real tight (but still comfy). I had a gov lock (clutch with a different lock up style) and it worked great, the clutches never failed, but the case did. :rolleyes:

I would stay away from the detroit as it locks up (rather abruptly) when you apply power, so in turns with your heavy payload, the weight shift from it locking (and unlocking) would probably be unacceptable in referance to the steering feel, which would be aggravated by the heavier load.

Clutch plated limited slips are fine. One truck I am driving now has had the same unit for 17 years, and it still locks up fine.



Carl
 
Traction for 2wd
This is what i have learned.
You need good mud tires and enough weight to make them bite
Limited slip without weight or tires is a waste of time
Limited slip can cause you porblems if you get stuck on a side hill
limited slip can cause problems on ice, cause you to break traction going round corners in icy and snowy conditions.
 
Usually the truck is heavy enough that the tires will have enough grip the problem I run into is the one wheel spin syndrome if the other wheel would grab I could get out.
 
Unless you purchase a selectable locker you'll have to give and take. A locker (Detroit) is the strogest choice (next to a spool), t may make some noise but will most likely never wear out. A limited slip will only "lock" the free wheel if it has some bias on it. If the free wheel is unloaded (high centered on the diff for example) the limited slip will not bias to the wheel with traction. You can over come this by applying the brake a little but then you make the engine and trans work harder. There is also a point of deminishing return. Clutch style limited slips are less expensive to buy but will eventually wear out. How long this takes depend on how you drive them. If you get stuck in the mud alot and rev the dickens out of the engine getting out you will wear them out rather quickly. If you drive easy and rarely cause them to bias they will last a long time. Helical gear limited slips in my opinion are better. The best of both worlds is a selectable locker. There are several to choose from (Detroit electric locker, ox locker, Arb air locker, etc. ) These are the most expensive and offer all of the advantages and very few drawbacks. Unfortunately they are not available for alot of medium and heavy duty truck applications. Your F450 will have either a dana 70, 80 or sterling rearend in it. All of these have detroit lockers available and some factory limited slip. Personally I run detroits in my 2 wheel drive trucks. They do make a little noise every now and then and you don't want to try and negotiate a slippery side hill with them. I don't recommend negotiating side slopes with any large truck if you can avoid it. However, the benefits far outweigh the costs imho.

My $.02
 
I'am pretty fussy where I go if the road has a off camber to it I won't go down it. When I'am climbing the dirt driveways I take it easy once I feel the azz end of the truck starting to slide I stop right away. The worst thing is get sideways in someones driveway where you can't pull ahead or back up :cry:

I always use G.O.A.L a couple minute walk saves a few hours of headaches. The first thing you ask the home owner is there room to turn a 23' long truck around you get down these long steep driveways and no room to turn.

The other question is do you have a heavy enough vehical to pull me back out if I get stuck :D

They make the ARB selectable locker for the Dana 80 I thought about that but I don't know how reliable they are the Detroit locker is pretty much proven.
 
ARB locker is proven to be reliable as long as it is set up poperly and is maintaned. You have to keep the oil clean in the ARB because it can mess up the o-rings and create a leak. Some models are using new cases that have an even strong locking arrangment. If you could afford it, I would get the Air locker, or the OX locker if one is available for your axle.

Carl
 
The ARB is 1200 dollars plus another 3000 for the air compressor the Detroit locker is 1000 dollars. I will have to get another truck first and see what axle it has so I can find out what fits.
 
Instead of a stronger front bumper, a good option is to install a front mounted reciever hitch.They bolt to the frame just like the rear. And they are usually not too noticable. Then you have many options to slide in. Winch mount, ball hitch to back trailer in tricky spot, reciever mounted tow hook, bike rack, etc. I think jc whittney sells them for less then $200.
 
I thought about bolting on a receiver hitch on the front then I can maybe run a portable Warn winch.

I will have to wait and see what happens what I wanted to find out is if a limited slip or a locker will help in my situation. You guys run chip trucks or 1.5 ton trucks like mine hauling firewood etc.

I don't have the buget for a brandew or a 99 or newer F-450 4x4 because there just isn't the big money in what I'am doing its enough to keep me employed.

That Dana 80 on Ebay is nice but its a tad far away for me to ship it from SC to here would be very very expensive.
 
GM 14 bolt 10.5" has a standard capacity of 10,000 pounds. They are a dime a dozen, and should be marginaly strong enough. There is a carier break at 4.10:1. A detroit runs $400 if I remember right.

$3000 for a compressor? Did you mean $300?


Carl
 
I'v got a 2000 f-350 2wd single rear wheel diesel LT-slip rear end. It seams like the rear end never grabs when I need it most. I get stuck on a slight slope if i'm not carefull. Ford replaced the clutch pack at about 10,000 miles. It still does not grab like it should. Riding the brake helps some, but I shouldnt have to do that. My bumper to bumper warr is about up, I should let them buy anouther clutch pack for it. This is my 2nd ford with lt-slip and i'v yet to have one that grabs good.
If it were me setting up a truck, I would go with the locker.
 
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