Trail Maintenance How-To

[MtnHermit]

This photo is typical of a trail maintenance project I want to do. I've two main concerns, chainsaw binding and a log rolling on me and I'm seeking "been there, done that" practical advice. Where should I cut? Please use uphill/downhill and top/bottom so that I'll understand your directions. There's no snow, just this photo shows the basic tree/trail situation.

To date, all my chainsaw experience has been blocking dead-fall for firewood. That involves a tree lying on flat ground, 50-odd feet from my truck with 2 chainsaws and various tools to solve any problem. This project is more than a mile from the truck, lots of elevation gain and a weak back, so I won't be bringing the kitchen sink.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[2dogs]

You may want to post this in the home owner help thread too.

To start bring your saw and fuel along with an extra chain. Also bring a 3-5 lb axe and a couple of 8 and ten inch wedges. A 5' long peavey can be a big help too if you have a cutting partner. Don't forget a first aid kit that includes an Isreali dressing or a bloodstopper.

Start near the top of the blowdown and piece it out. I am assuming you are not firewooding so just cut the tree into pieces you can make secure so they won't roll down the hill on top of you. Try to carefully read the bind and cut from the other side. If you are not sure step back and take a moment to run through things in your head. Cut small pieces here, maybe only a foot at a time till you are clear on what you are doing. Think about each cut you have just made and try to remember the forces you felt on the saw. Report back as you can and we will try to help you out. Just remember, don't believe everything you see on the internet. Caveat emptor.

Oops... always take a buddy and your cell phone and file a "flight plan".

 

[MtnHermit]

Thanks 2dogs for the reply.

bring a 3-5 lb axe and a couple of 8 and ten inch wedges. A 5' long peavey can be a big help too if you have a cutting partner. Don't forget a first aid kit that includes an Isreali dressing or a bloodstopper.

Most of this falls into the kitchen sink category. Besides, don't even know what a peavey is.

Start near the top of the blowdown and piece it out. I am assuming you are not firewooding so just cut the tree into pieces you can make secure so they won't roll down the hill on top of you. Try to carefully read the bind and cut from the other side. If you are not sure step back and take a moment to run through things in your head. Cut small pieces here, maybe only a foot at a time till you are clear on what you are doing. Think about each cut you have just made and try to remember the forces you felt on the saw. Report back as you can and we will try to help you out.

Correct, no firewood here. This project is 30 miles from home and I have a lifetime of dead fall within 3-miles.

If I understand, you suggest I climb the hillside to the top of the tree and work all the way down in small blocks? Are you concerned that the tree would slide on the steep slope if I started at the obvious daylight gap? My slope isn't that steep so sliding is impossible, rolling however is a concern. Also, do have a large span, so it'll POP.

As to stopping and thinking, you bet!!! Every cut will be proceeded by saw off, walk around and examine the slope and judging gravity. Gravity always wins.

This project is a month away, so lots of time to adsorb good ideas.

Oops... always take a buddy and your cell phone and file a "flight plan".

Cells rarely work in the mountains.

Thanks

 

[zopi]

Take in a hank or two of decent rope too...if a piece appears to want to move, secure it with the line...then section out to control the movement...hope that makes sense...

You can also cut blocks and pes in the woods to shore it up...

 

[madhatte]

A good portion of the cutting I've done has been in jackstrawed blowdown, and the few rules I have found that I try very hard to never violate are these:

1) be uphill of where you expect the log to roll when it comes loose
2) work from less potential energy to more whenever possible -- that is, small end to large -- relieving tension as you go
3) too much bar is better than not enough
4) relieving cuts to prevent slabbing will save you with horizontal wood just as much as vertical
5) never get complacent; gravity never rests
6) be extra-careful in wood that is compromised in any way

EDIT: also, agreed on the peavey. A little leverage can make all the difference.

 

[Gologit]

Besides, don't even know what a peavey is.

Find out. If you're going to be doing trail clearing you'll get a lot of use out a peavey.

 

[MtnHermit]

A good portion of the cutting I've done has been in jackstrawed blowdown, and the few rules I have found that I try very hard to never violate are these:

1) be uphill of where you expect the log to roll when it comes loose

Makes sense, will do.

2) work from less potential energy to more whenever possible -- that is, small end to large -- relieving tension as you go

What do you mean by "relieving tension as you go"

4) relieving cuts to prevent slabbing will save you with horizontal wood just as much as vertical

Please expand/explain. Perhaps an example.

5) never get complacent; gravity never rests

First law!!!

6) be extra-careful in wood that is compromised in any way

Like splits? I've noticed in blocking dead fall, the saw behaves very erratic in areas where the log is fractured.

EDIT: also, agreed on the peavey. A little leverage can make all the difference

Still don't know what a peavy is, so I don't own one. Not planning to buy anything with the possible exception of chaps.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[MtnHermit]

You can also cut blocks and pes in the woods to shore it up...

Yes, Make a "tool" in the woods.

Thanks

 

[Gologit]

This is a peavey. It's not the best use of one I've ever seen. The guy using it is naturally clumsy but you'll get the general idea. They're a back saver.




[video=youtube;-XxnbNXh4q8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XxnbNXh4q8[/video]

 

[2dogs]

Yep that talky showed a peavey in action. That was a colorized movie made before the invention of the steam locomotive but the user showed dern good form. The peavey is a log roller with a pointed end and a 5' long handle though that one was probably measured in cubits. The LogRite/Stihl brand is a good one if you want an aluminum handle. Avoid the Chinese copy that is painted the exact blue color of LogRite. Peavey and Dixie make wood handle models, there may be others.

 

[MtnHermit]

Is everyone on this forum a Gear Whore?

I have no intention of purchasing a peavey and if I owned a peavey I wouldn't carry it up the trail, too heavy too big.

I've asked direct questions to replies, no answers. I don't need more gear, I need cutting knowledge. Simple Do's and Don'ts.

 

[John Ellison]

Well, at a minimum you should take a bar wrench and a saw file because you will get hung up and you will get your saw in the dirt. Wedges, an axe and a peavey would help you a lot there, especially if you are without much experience. Leaving your saw hung up in a log is called the anti-theft position, but a thief with a bar wrench might come along.


Unrelated picture, but I just realized old pics from way back posts were still stored on AS and I had to see if they still worked. Pic is not me but a friend on POW IS AK>

 

[Gologit]

Is everyone on this forum a Gear Whore?

I have no intention of purchasing a peavey and if I owned a peavey I wouldn't carry it up the trail, too heavy too big.

I've asked direct questions to replies, no answers. I don't need more gear, I need cutting knowledge. Simple Do's and Don'ts.

Gear Whore? No, not really. A lot of the answers to your questions came from guys who make their living in the woods. They know better than to carry anything they don't really need. But they usually know what works the best for any given situation. You'd do well to listen.

I understand your frustration. You're seeking information that will help you overcome your lack of knowledge. It sounds like you need a lot of information. It also sounds like your're falling into the trap of wanting absolute guarantees that "if I do this, the tree will do that. I wish it worked that way. My job would sure be easier if it did.

It's hard to tell from your picture but if all you need to do is cut a three foot gap through that windfall it shouldn't be too hard. An experienced cutter would have it done in about three minutes. You're quite obviously not experienced so take it easy and slow. If there's a lot of tension make a few small cuts, relieving cuts they're called, from underneath and see what the tree does. Stand well back while you're cutting. When you've cut a few relief cuts you should be able to tell where the most pressure is. When you decide where your final cut will be start your first cut on the far side of the log and only cut in a few inches. Start your main cut from the bottom until you're at least 3/4 of the way through the log. Then, using the front few inches of the bar start down from the top. If the kerf wants to close up on your bar pull out and come in from the bottom again. Be cautious for the log to swing at you when it finally lets go and watch for the uphill log to move down at you. This can happen in an eye blink.
If you have time and the ground permits it starting from the top and cutting three or four foot sections would probably work, too.

Caveat...none of this is absolutely guaranteed to work. One of the things experience has taught us is that every tree is different and you have to be able to change your plan instantly when things go awry. A lot of wood cutting is correcting small mistakes as they happen and not letting them become disasters because of your inexperience or ignorance.

And, if you would, lose the Gear Whore mentality. Use a peavey or don't...it really doesn't matter to me. You asked for advice and you got it. If you don't like the advice, don't take it. Your choice entirely.

But, if you can, have somebody video your attempt at cutting and moving that windfall. We all enjoy entertaining videos.

 

[2dogs]

Is everyone on this forum a Gear Whore?

I have no intention of purchasing a peavey and if I owned a peavey I wouldn't carry it up the trail, too heavy too big.

I've asked direct questions to replies, no answers. I don't need more gear, I need cutting knowledge. Simple Do's and Don'ts.

You have a bad attitude and you want something for nothing. You don't like the advice so you insult the person who posted. I'm done with you. Now go away.

 

[Gologit]

You have a bad attitude and you want something for nothing. You don't like the advice so you insult the person who posted. I'm done with you. Now go away.

That's basically what I said. But I said it nicer. Pffffft.

 

[2dogs]

That's basically what I said. But I said it nicer. Pffffft.

Yeah, I'm not much for diplomacy.

 

[Gologit]

Yeah, I'm not much for diplomacy.

Oh well, when you offer advice and it's rejected and belittled it's hard to be diplomatic.

Gotta go...I need to sharpen the point on my peavey. It's a heavy sucker so I just drag it everywhere.

 

[John Ellison]

Hahaha You gotta get with it Bob. I carry my peavey on a sling on my back along with my trailbike. Then I can ride out when my saw gets hungup.

 

[JRepairsK70e]

i think most of us here would use this trail project as an excuse to buy even more saws and peaveys ,signed" prepared gear whore" lol

 

[Gologit]

Hahaha You gotta get with it Bob. I carry my peavey on a sling on my back along with my trailbike. Then I can ride out when my saw gets hungup.

Trailbike? You're getting pretty fancy there. Got to admit though, there are times, especially at the end of the day when the pack out is up hill, that I wish I had a trail bike.