Trailer frames and ratings

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
You guys and your trailers :) i just stick a cord on my pickup. Its only a 3 foot tall stack and another cord in a 1 ton pickup bed trailer. Also 3 feet tall. If I had another pickup bed trailer I thought was road worthy I'd stack another cord on it and my poor little dodge would still pull it! BTW does a cord of oak really weigh in close to 5000 pounds? my pickup doesnt think it wieghs near that, maybe 3500. Might just be because its loaded so evenly.
 
Holidays are over and I got my quote today. PJ 14x77 tandem axle trailer, both axles braked, 24" sides with expanded metal, 16" on center cross members, ramp gate. Price? A mere $2800. Not gonna happen.

They said that they could sell me essentially the same trailer made by Lawrimore but with paint instead of powder coat for $2100. Lawrimore's website is down at the moment, I'm curious to see how they're built.

Ian

I've sat down and written out some specs that I would like for trailers from a few companies, and in the next day or so, I'll call and get a few quotes. I want to get 2 from PJ, one from Big Tex, one from Load Trail and one from Trailmaster. I'm sure I'll need to be sitting down for all of them except maybe Trailmaster.

I probably haven't looked hard enough, but it looks like 5200 lb. axles are only spec'd for 83" wide trailers. Does anybody know if 5200 lb. axles come narrower/shorter?

Kevin
 
I've sat down and written out some specs that I would like for trailers from a few companies, and in the next day or so, I'll call and get a few quotes. I want to get 2 from PJ, one from Big Tex, one from Load Trail and one from Trailmaster. I'm sure I'll need to be sitting down for all of them except maybe Trailmaster.

I probably haven't looked hard enough, but it looks like 5200 lb. axles are only spec'd for 83" wide trailers. Does anybody know if 5200 lb. axles come narrower/shorter?

Kevin


Why would you want a 77 inch wide trailer instead of 83 or bigger? i'd pull a 102 everywhere if i could afford them. You might also check with C&M Trailers in Southern Oklahoma, and WW trailers out of Madill OK. Thats what we pull and they are good solid trailers and dealers for them can't be to hard to find considering i've seen WW's in south dakota!
 
You guys and your trailers :) i just stick a cord on my pickup. Its only a 3 foot tall stack and another cord in a 1 ton pickup bed trailer. Also 3 feet tall. If I had another pickup bed trailer I thought was road worthy I'd stack another cord on it and my poor little dodge would still pull it! BTW does a cord of oak really weigh in close to 5000 pounds? my pickup doesnt think it wieghs near that, maybe 3500. Might just be because its loaded so evenly.

Do a Google search for wood cord weights or wood cord calculators or something close to that. I've read 5000 lbs to 5700 lbs for green Oak per cord. What type of Oak is also a factor.

Kevin
 
The load was ash that was in log form for at least a year before I chunked and split it. It is burning nicely but am burning other wood that I have first. Yes, I am tired of stacking.

You can get custom ordered axles and about anything else you need to build a trailer from AAA Trailer online. 7000lb axles aren't much more than 5200lb axles, but wheels and tires will be a bit more.

I would like to build a deck-over trailer for my quads. I want to custom make it with the same track as my truck and about the same width. I want to keep it from hanging out and catching wind as much a possible. I don't have the time to get it done, though.:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Why would you want a 77 inch wide trailer instead of 83 or bigger?

Ideally I don't want anything that's wider than the truck that's pulling it. If the truck will fit through a hole, I want the trailer to follow suit. I won't be clearing my country road of mailboxes that are a little too close to the road. My road is such that if two pickups meet each other, both of them have one set of wheels in the grass, especially if one is a dually.

Ian
 
Why would you want a 77 inch wide trailer instead of 83 or bigger? i'd pull a 102 everywhere if i could afford them. You might also check with C&M Trailers in Southern Oklahoma, and WW trailers out of Madill OK. Thats what we pull and they are good solid trailers and dealers for them can't be to hard to find considering i've seen WW's in south dakota!

I plan on getting a 83' wide trailer...if funds allow, I'm not made of money. I am curious about the 77" is all.

I'm trying to find the balance between price and how much trailer I can get to pull behind my half ton. Ian sums it up nicely:

I want one build adequately for the purpose but not overbuilt so that I waste towing capacity pulling steel down the road.

Especially for my current truck. I will look and see if C&M and WW have websites.

Kevin
 
KMB,
Just my opinions, but here they are anyway. Be careful not to option your way out of price range, any of the tandem utilities will do the job for you. The angle frames with 1 foot side frames use lighter materials and use the side as a truss to gain strength without excessive weight. This helps keep them lighter than a flatbed. Anytime you add trailer weight you take away load capacity. I know that some talk about flex too, but if you look at the big aluminum flatbed semi trailers, they really flex! On any website you can get into bigger is better, but stay within the constraints of the tow rig and you will be happier. You can get a heavier trailer down the road to pull with the dually diesel when you get there.

One other note, don't buy a heavy single axle trailer!!!! The tandems smooth things out so much, extra safety with four tires,if youve ever had a tire failure on a loaded single axle you won't want one. More brakes, much less jigging on your truck hitch, pull more weight with less drama.

With the half ton you can haul 7000 on the trailer axles and 700 on the tongue weight, giving 7700 total, minus 2000 for the trailer, about 5500-5700 net. Thats enough in my opinion.

This is just my opinion and I don't really want to debate with anyone on their 27 foot gooseneck brake free 30,000 lb behind an S-10 :hmm3grin2orange:
 
KMB,
Just my opinions, but here they are anyway. Be careful not to option your way out of price range, any of the tandem utilities will do the job for you. The angle frames with 1 foot side frames use lighter materials and use the side as a truss to gain strength without excessive weight. This helps keep them lighter than a flatbed. Anytime you add trailer weight you take away load capacity. I know that some talk about flex too, but if you look at the big aluminum flatbed semi trailers, they really flex! On any website you can get into bigger is better, but stay within the constraints of the tow rig and you will be happier. You can get a heavier trailer down the road to pull with the dually diesel when you get there.

One other note, don't buy a heavy single axle trailer!!!! The tandems smooth things out so much, extra safety with four tires,if youve ever had a tire failure on a loaded single axle you won't want one. More brakes, much less jigging on your truck hitch, pull more weight with less drama.

With the half ton you can haul 7000 on the trailer axles and 700 on the tongue weight, giving 7700 total, minus 2000 for the trailer, about 5500-5700 net. Thats enough in my opinion.

This is just my opinion and I don't really want to debate with anyone on their 27 foot gooseneck brake free 30,000 lb behind an S-10 :hmm3grin2orange:

Its 30,000 behind a dodge deisel! damnit! get it right! lol. And i'll bet the trailer is rated close to it. I still agree with the rest of your statements. If you can get 5500 pounds behind a half ton plus a trailer you've got enough wieght. If you have a 3/4 ton or 1 ton you should pull a gooseneck and just accept the fact you drive a mans truck. Goosenecks are easier backing, follow in a shorter radius ect. ect. They are MUCH better, but if you pull a trailer 10 times a year for 50 miles you aren't very smart to buy a gooseneck :)
 
Jimbo,
Thanks for not taking offense, I wasn't out to make you mad, just make the half ton point. Sometimes the humor doesn't make it in print!! I use a dodge half ton with the little v-8 and a home built tandem utility style trailer, and 8000 or so is plentyyyy of weight behind it. In wisconsin, the security of brakes in the hills and ice etc. is great. And I'm obeying the law.... mostly
 
Jimbo,
Thanks for not taking offense, I wasn't out to make you mad, just make the half ton point. Sometimes the humor doesn't make it in print!! I use a dodge half ton with the little v-8 and a home built tandem utility style trailer, and 8000 or so is plentyyyy of weight behind it. In wisconsin, the security of brakes in the hills and ice etc. is great. And I'm obeying the law.... mostly

I live where its flat, you can do that retarded 30,000 pound stuff without brakes. But I've owned well.. still own some half tons and like i said 5000 pounds of load behind it is enough. I till think you'd like the wider trailer though as you really don't cut that much wind AND you can load a regular single wheel pickup on it if needed.

Any of you guys wanting goosenecks for wood hauling are probably out of your mind :) I wouldn't own one if it wasn't for hauling hay and machinery ect.
 
KMB,
Just my opinions, but here they are anyway. Be careful not to option your way out of price range, any of the tandem utilities will do the job for you. The angle frames with 1 foot side frames use lighter materials and use the side as a truss to gain strength without excessive weight. This helps keep them lighter than a flatbed. Anytime you add trailer weight you take away load capacity. I know that some talk about flex too, but if you look at the big aluminum flatbed semi trailers, they really flex! On any website you can get into bigger is better, but stay within the constraints of the tow rig and you will be happier. You can get a heavier trailer down the road to pull with the dually diesel when you get there.

One other note, don't buy a heavy single axle trailer!!!! The tandems smooth things out so much, extra safety with four tires,if youve ever had a tire failure on a loaded single axle you won't want one. More brakes, much less jigging on your truck hitch, pull more weight with less drama.

With the half ton you can haul 7000 on the trailer axles and 700 on the tongue weight, giving 7700 total, minus 2000 for the trailer, about 5500-5700 net. Thats enough in my opinion.

This is just my opinion and I don't really want to debate with anyone on their 27 foot gooseneck brake free 30,000 lb behind an S-10 :hmm3grin2orange:

Good post man!

LOL...you must have read my mind on the heavy single. It has crossed my mind and I was going to get a quote on a PJ 4" channel 83" x 12', 16" O.C. cross members with a 5200 lb. braked axle. My thought was pricing (?) and that I could get a little over 2/3 of a cord on the trailer and a little under 1/3 cord on the truck. But...I forgot about the things you mentioned...especially with blowouts. I had one with the car hauler I have mentioned. I was loaded and was glad for the tandems for sure. I was going slow through a town so no drama. So thanks reminder of why I shouldn't get a single axle for what I want to do.

Your calculations on what I should be pulling behind my half ton is exactly what I had figured also.

Kevin
 
Heck... before I picked up that little kubota in my signature, I wanted a 12x5 tandem with 36" sides for wood hauling. Now I need a bit longer and wider for the tractor.

I think I'll be able to get a 3/4T for my 50th birthday. Providing that my income doesn't take a nose dive between now and then of course. I just turned 43 last month. It'll be awhile. :)

Ian
 
Good post man!

LOL...you must have read my mind on the heavy single. It has crossed my mind and I was going to get a quote on a PJ 4" channel 83" x 12', 16" O.C. cross members with a 5200 lb. braked axle. My thought was pricing (?) and that I could get a little over 2/3 of a cord on the trailer and a little under 1/3 cord on the truck. But...I forgot about the things you mentioned...especially with blowouts. I had one with the car hauler I have mentioned. I was loaded and was glad for the tandems for sure. I was going slow through a town so no drama. So thanks reminder of why I shouldn't get a single axle for what I want to do.

Your calculations on what I should be pulling behind my half ton is exactly what I had figured also.

Kevin
Kevin a tandem utilty 6'x16' with 2- 3500# brake axles should weigh around 1800#.
 
Home built trailer

KMB, here are some pics of my home built trailer, licensed at 10k.
Steveguy

wk1J1.jpg



AJh9F.jpg


GRod1.jpg


HJixt.jpg


ssh3z.jpg


TvVyv.jpg
 
I think I've decided on the Lone Wolf. It's enough. I could get the Kaufman for about the same money, but would sacrifice payload in doing that. I called Gator trailers (made here in KY) but they were not very flexible when it came to options. I asked about 24" sides and they said no, so I did too.

If I ever get the 3/4t, I will want a 10K trailer anyway. I'll upgrade then.

Ian
 
Locust- 500 for a c50 is a STEAL no matter what if it moves! i spent 500 on brakes for my c70 without buying drums or shoes :) just had to put cylinders and seals and fluid and kits in them (all avilible from truck parts and orielly's)

I have some buddies that trap over around Sharon... screw that mess :) I have plenty of tree's about 5 miles south of the kansas/oklahoma line south of South Haven and west of Braman OK if you ever run out of tree's :)

My C70 does have a 427 Tall deck which lets her run 70 and never even moan. Had 30,000 miles when i bought it. It is a 1979 model though, so its got a lot better interior and such. I have saw them sell for about $4000 w/ a hoist and 16' bed.

Well, when I get back home an get the truck(s) fixed, I'll have to come meet you and give you a hand sawing. I spoke with that older friend yesterday (that has the C50 or C60),... He decide to give it to me free and clear, as he doesn't have the time to fix it/use it. It NEEDS Brakes, some motor attention, possibly a clutch (a few interior touches like working gauges lol) and it'll be going. Minimum will be tires, brakes and gauges (no idea on tires -COOP?) and it'll be fetching wood for me. Any idea where I could find a 366 or 427 Talldeck to replace it's TIRED 350? Hell I might even go for a 4-6cyl Cummins or Detroit,...
-Bryan
 
I think I've decided on the Lone Wolf. It's enough. I could get the Kaufman for about the same money, but would sacrifice payload in doing that. I called Gator trailers (made here in KY) but they were not very flexible when it came to options. I asked about 24" sides and they said no, so I did too.

:laugh:

If I ever get the 3/4t, I will want a 10K trailer anyway. I'll upgrade then.

Yup, same goes for myself. Until then, I deal with my half ton.

Kevin
 
Well, when I get back home an get the truck(s) fixed, I'll have to come meet you and give you a hand sawing. I spoke with that older friend yesterday (that has the C50 or C60),... He decide to give it to me free and clear, as he doesn't have the time to fix it/use it. It NEEDS Brakes, some motor attention, possibly a clutch (a few interior touches like working gauges lol) and it'll be going. Minimum will be tires, brakes and gauges (no idea on tires -COOP?) and it'll be fetching wood for me. Any idea where I could find a 366 or 427 Talldeck to replace it's TIRED 350? Hell I might even go for a 4-6cyl Cummins or Detroit,...
-Bryan

Don't put a 366 in it!!!! I'm sure someone around this area has a 427 or 454 though. Tires aren't so hard to find, are they 20's or 22.5's? mine are 22.5's the same as a school bus and i gave 50 bucks a tire for year old Firestones off a school bus, i could put semi tires on it though. If they are 20's i have a buddy that could probably get you the hook up on new ones, used ones..... HA! they dont' exist but he might be able to find some. Brakes aren't bad if the drums are "ok" the cylinders are bought from o'reilly's... but DO NOT screw the adjusters up. Spray them with panther piss multiple times and then work them around. You can't buy the adjuster kits. There are 2 cylinders per drum on mine and i had to remove the axle (don't screw you're seal up either! its 50 bucks) If you have bud wheels (tubeless) you're in REALLY good shape
 
Ideally I don't want anything that's wider than the truck that's pulling it. If the truck will fit through a hole, I want the trailer to follow suit. I won't be clearing my country road of mailboxes that are a little too close to the road. My road is such that if two pickups meet each other, both of them have one set of wheels in the grass, especially if one is a dually.

Ian
i am currently looking for an older pickup to make a trailer out of the frame and bed. i used this type before with a 67 Chevy one ton with 2' side boards on truck and trailer you can pack some serious wood in them both... and it wont stick out going down the road... also the key is to find one that runs same tires and rims so you only have one spare to carry....i have built these before for less then $500.00 you can run hydraulic surge brakes from hitch to the axle brakes also... but also i have used landscapers trailers and yes you can overload them... i bent axles under one 6.5x14' 7000# trailer hauled and scaled 12000# and bent the axles. the trailer i have now is bent also... i hauled a load of logs up from the creek and now the rear of the trailer is bowed down.bent the frame rails and they are 5" channel. you can not over build a trailer but you can over pay for one.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top