Trailer to fix

[KMB]

I slipped away to watch a movie with my wife and daughter.

les, I'll post some more pics of the trailer tomorrow, but the tires absolutely all need replacing and I want to do it right. The floor would be next and then at least brakes for one axle...if I decide to go this way with this trailer. I have made friends with a couple of guys who know how to weld...so maybe I'll get them to have a look at the trailer. I might even see if he/they could make me a set of ramps and a place under the trailer to store them...if I could find scrap metal like some of you are telling me about. Hmmm...the wheels in my poor head are turning.

I'll be honest, I thought that after I posted about the other new trailer, that y'all would agree that it would be better to try for the new one...but not so . Sounds like I should try and work with this one.

Kevin

 

[KMB]

I have been looking for a trailer the weight rating and size. What factory gave you that quote?

Tiger Trailers in Texas.

Kevin

 

[KMB]

davec, the axles have the flanges/plates for mounting brakes. There was ramps...but they were stolen.

My friend is not 'forcing' the trailer on me...he knows I've been looking at getting a trailer and offered this one to me. At one time he said to just take and use it and do whatever I wanted to it...but I'd feel better to give him some cash for it so that I actually own it.

As far as CL and using SearchTempest...I have been doing that a little. But it goes back to cash on hand...which I don't have all that I need for what I want to do right now. That is why I'm asking about this trailer where I could work on a little at a time money wise. I'll still check CL...might be a steal of a deal come up that is within a reasonable drive and I can afford the cash.

Kevin

 

[davec]

Well OK then, Like I said, you can bang that bend back into place. It's nothing structural, so put on the ear muffs and swing away! If a weld breaks, go find one of your welder friends. You know you need tires, and you are going to do brakes. That's the big expense. You can rewire it for not too much dough, including the new brakes (BTW you might as well redo any suspect lights and all the wires at that time as you are knee-deep already). The deck can just be a few treated 2x's which isn't too bad either. Big cost is the tires and brakes.

Do you need ramps? If you are just loading lawnmowers and such, a couple small 2x8's with the ends nipped at an angle and a stop block screwed on can work fine. Or buy/make the screw-on steel ramp ends that hang on the bed nicely that you screw onto the 2x8s. And you can address this later on if you find you need heavy duty ramps.

But seriously, given how much you have to do to it, I wouldn't give much money for it, as is. It's maybe a $400 trailer with all that needs to be done. And those things vary a lot by region, so that is just what I see here.

 

[brisawyer]

That top rail IS structural. That top rail uprights and bottom rail form a truss. The top rail needs to be in decent shape for hauling any big weight.
For a cheap fix mabey check a local community college,trade school or high school with a welding program.

 

[les-or-more]

That top rail IS structural. That top rail uprights and bottom rail form a truss. The top rail needs to be in decent shape for hauling any big weight.
For a cheap fix mabey check a local community college,trade school or high school with a welding program.

I agree on both points.

 

[dave_dj1]

i think if it was my trailer, I would put a large timber on the opposing side , then insert a jack of some sort (I have a porta-power) across to the top to the other side. Put some pressure on it and smack down on the wrinkle, repeat as necessary, applying more jack pressure. No welding/cutting required.

 

[fields_mj]

+2 on the top rail. Needs to be replaced, or straightened and then reinforced, but either of those options would be VERY cheap. If it were me, it would need to get new tires, one set of brakes, and the wiring. Figure up that cost, and subtract it from what you see similar sized trailers going for on craigslist. Then take another $100 off for the bent rail.

As far as repairing the rail, use a come along, and a BFH to straighten it, and then have a piece of 3/16" flat steel, or even a piece of angle welded over it for reinforcement. If you would rather replace it, cut the bent section out with a hack saw, sawzall, or angle grinder, buy a piece of left over steel from a local weld shop, and then have one of your buddies teach you how to weld it on there. A 6 pack of what ever makes a nice thank you. Just because you've confined yourself to pop (like myself) doesn't mean that you can't say thank you in an appropriate manor

Basic welding skills come in very handy, especially if your budget has you buying everything used like mine does. Stick welders are simple and last forever, and a used one can be picked up pretty cheap. I've seen them advertiser on CL for as low as $75, and a co-worker sold me his for $20. Its the accessories that can kill ya.... You may find that you'd like to own one some day, especially if you are frequently using trailers and cutting firewood.

 

[Whitespider]

That top rail IS NOT as structural as some believe, it adds more rigidity than strength. Did anyone notice there isn't any vertical braces where the fenders are?

No way would I replace that bent rail, it's mild steel that can easily be put back in its place, with no compromise in strength. Put the trailer between a couple trees, some chains, some 2x4/4x4 bracing and a come-a-long... sledge and maybe some selected use of a fire-wrench.

Trailers get "beat-up", you can't stop that. They ride just a couple feet behind the pulling vehicle, constantly peppered with debris kicked up by it. Loads, such as firewood, shift and bounce and bang onto the floor and side rails... not to mention the abuse they get just loading them. Most of the time they sit out in the weather year 'round; Mother Nature takes one heck of a toll on them. It's nice to have a sparkling new trailer... but, if'n you're gonna' use it... well, it ain't gonna' be sparklin' for long.

If I was gonna' use it for haulin' firewood I'd straiten as above. Next I'd replace the planks; find a local saw mill and buy "rough cut", install and then soak 'em down with used oil (once a year). Load Rated Tires? How fast, and how far are you planning to haul this wood? I'd go down to the local Fleet store and get the best deal I could on ply tires. Forget the brakes; just a waste of cash and makes for future headaches... any late model pick-up, especially 3/4 ton, have more than enough brake to gett'er stopped... and you can always add brakes later if'n you think you need 'em (you won't). Besides, if you get yourself in a situation where you need that much stoppin' power, you'll have chunks of firewood smashing through the rear window... A cheap four prong trailer connector and get the lights working, maybe replace with recessed lights to help protect them.

After all, it's a wood hauler.

If you really want to, paint the visible parts of the trailer with a buzz-can when you've got the planks off.

 

[SDiver40]

Just my 2 cents worth.
Your looking at something that is prob. going to sit more than run down the road. A little metal, tires, and boards and your set to go.

A New trailer is nice, but it's going to get beat up and will look like the old one someday.

Personally, I dont feel as bad about an old trailer just sitting there in the weather.

 

[KMB]

Lots to think about fellas...good stuff!

I'm gonna have one of my welding friends look the trailer over and see what he says. I'm leaning towards the cut and replace of the uprights and top rail that is affected. I'm sure the the frame would be pounded back into place as Les suggested.

For mower loading I would want fairly wide ramps since it is for a ZTR mower, so 2 - 2x8's (or X10's) together might work...whatever it would be could be built.

Brakes...I have pulled a cord of Oak (about 7K including the trailer) with my 1/2 ton without brakes on a trailer and never had an emergency (thank the Lord)...but when I got a brake controller and the proper 7-way plug for my truck to use the trailers brakes...much, much, much better. To each his own, but I want the brakes on my 1/2 ton to last longer and you just never know when you'll really need the trailer brakes.

As far as the trailers appearance, I have to agree with that it will get it's share of dents and scratches...although I am very careful and take care of my equipment.

I would love to have the basic knowledge and equipment to weld...one day I'll invest in both.

Kevin

 

[KMB]

Just my 2 cents worth.
Your looking at something that is prob. going to sit more than run down the road. A little metal, tires, and boards and your set to go.

A New trailer is nice, but it's going to get beat up and will look like the old one someday.

Personally, I dont feel as bad about an old trailer just sitting there in the weather.

True, I don't have a garage or carport, so it would be exposed to the southern heat and humidity.

Kevin

 

[KMB]

As promised, here’s more pics of the trailer, and some info:

It’s 16’ long with a 76” wide deck. I did some measurements of the steel. The frame is 3” x 2” x ¼” angle frame, tongue is 4” x 3” x ¼” angle, crossmembers are 3” x 2” x 3/16” angle, uprights are 2” x 2” x 1/8” angle and the top rail is 3” x 2” x 1/8” angle. The 5 bolt axles measure (2.375” tube diameter) to be 3500 lb rated with flanges to mount electric brakes.

The manufacturers tag says 4K for the GVWR rating, but I’m sure the trailer can safely haul more than that. From my trailer researching of other trailer manufacturers and their GVWR ratings, I would think this trailer would at least be rated to 6K taking into account the 3” x 2” angle frame (compared to a 4” x 3” angle frame)…even with the 8K rated tongue (see pic) and 2-3500 lb. axles. Anybody know why it would be rated so low? For registration purposes?

I’ve already mentioned the obvious things it needs as in new floor boards and tires. The lights don’t work, but that would be an easy enough fix (bulbs, ground wire check). The welded-in jack is bent, but it works. The fenders might be able to be pounded out a little straighter.

Kevin

 

[KMB]

A couple more pics:

Kevin

 

[KMB]

I got to looking at the pics again and this trailer might end up like my old 044 that I got for cheap and the Lord helped me rebuild. It don't look real pretty, but it gets the job done just fine!

Kevin

 

[les-or-more]

Kevin

There is one of those things that really tick me off why weld the jack in, the coupler is aready drilled and tapped for the jack. Three 3/8" x1" bolts and washers and the jack can be swapped out in ten minutes by almost anybody. Those jacks get bent its a fact of life, somebody doesn't crank it up all the way or they unhook the trailer with a load without chocking the wheels and the trailer rolls. It makes no sense to me to make it difficult to fix it after life happens.

 

[KMB]

There is one of those things that really tick me off why weld the jack in, the coupler is aready drilled and tapped for the jack. Three 3/8" x1" bolts and washers and the jack can be swapped out in ten minutes by almost anybody. Those jacks get bent its a fact of life, somebody doesn't crank it up all the way or they unhook the trailer with a load without chocking the wheels and the trailer rolls. It makes no sense to me to make it difficult to fix it after life happens.

I couldn't agree more...makes no sense at all. But in this case, the jack still works, but I'd need an extension on the handle.

Kevin

 

[banshee67]

KMB - i have been following your trailer quest for such a long time now, i feel i am personally invested in the process. i long for the day i log in to AS and see a thread of yours, (with many pictures), of you and your new trailer hooked up to your f150 ! i am slowly dying inside, yearning for you to finally find what you are looking for. i am emotionally invested into your search for trailers at this point, and cannot wait till you find something you are happy with. i look forward to seeing a trailer load of logs hooked up to your f150, and will probably shed a tear when the times comes.
make us all proud
yours truly
banshee67


edit: did you buy this one from your friend?

 

[Fronty Owner]

Thanks for the reply's fellas. The fix doesn't sound to bad or expensive...but it's the rest of the trailer where the costs add up quickly. For 4 new trailer rated tires, new floor boards, ramps, brakes added to both axles, 7 way plug and a breakaway kit, I’ve figured it would cost about $1200 (doing the work myself). Adding to that would be the purchase price for the trailer (as is). I don’t think it makes sense to put that kind of money into it when I can get a 77”x16’ utility trailer with 2-3500 lb axles (brakes on both axles), 4”x3” angle frame, 4” channel wrap tongue, pipe top rail, 3”x2” angle uprights, diamond plate fenders, treated wood floor, Bulldog coupler, 48” ramp gate, spare mount and 2 extra tie-downs (for a total of 6) for $1735 factory direct. I got this quote over the phone and then I looked at one of their basic tandem utility trailers at a dealer’s lot and they appear well made.

I want to pay cash for a trailer like I'm ideally wanting, but still can't do it immediately...gotta look after my family (God first, family next, me last). If my friends trailer didn't need so much money to be put into it, I could settle on a price and pay him a little at a time. But there is the fact that I could get a new trailer (set up the way I would want) for very close to what it would cost to do up my friends. It wouldn't make sense to go the other way.

Kevin

your pulling this with an F150 right?
keep the loads in the 3500 pound range (trailer included) and you can run without trailer brakes. anything over that and you should have brakes. Check your owners manual and it will say at what point ford recommends brakes. Sure brakes are helpful even with an empty trailer, but not required. I would start with brakes on the back axle first.
second on to tires. Unless its really cheaper to go with trailer rated tires, I would go with the smallest, cheapest, chinese made tires I could find that had the load rating you need. Unless the trailer sees daily service, odds are the tires will dry-rot before you wear them out. and dont forget to check your local tire shop's used and abused rack.
Third, the damage, I would pull it back into place with a comealong or even a chain and your truck. It'll bend easier than you expect. Get the fender in line with the tires so your not slinging rocks and mud everywhere. shoot a coat of your favorite rattle can color on the trailer, and dont worry about the holes in your floor till you get to the woods. A couple well placed small trees will take care of it for now.
Last, you mentioned ramps. that isn't a car hauler, I would worry about them for now. if you load a car on that trailer, your either climbing out the window to get out after you ding your door opening it or your squeezing out with a ding in your door. :msp_unsure:

edit to add: the low trailer weight rating is probably due to the lack of axle brakes. the axles and tongue are all pre-fabbed parts.

That top rail IS NOT as structural as some believe, it adds more rigidity than strength. Did anyone notice there isn't any vertical braces where the fenders are?

In this case its not. I have seen some trailers constructed that the frame is made too light and the rails are part of the structure. kinda like a trussel bridge. All of these I have seen made with pipe for the rail, more supports and triangulation.

 

[dingeryote]

KMB,

Just a low buck Farmbilly option for ya.

Slap a few sheets of plywood on the deck, and screw into the existing deck.

Trailer tires aren't needed and neither are the brakes.
Plain old truck rated tires bought used with 50% left on them will work fine.

Leave the bent rail alone untill you save enough $$$ for a welder and torch set.

Keep the loads sane.


The brakes are one thing, but the load limit on the trailer as is, is right about where your F150 runs out of realistic spring and frame with a comfort margin.

Having the trailer limit you, might save your truck.

Every year I see overloaded trailers by the dozens, behind half tons, hauling fruit to the Processor. All of 'em have bent rear subsections and sit wonky the rest of the year. Heck our old F150 was one of 'em but wasn't a daily driver. Put 10K on a 3k trailer and it would pull it on uneven ground, but from behind you could watch the hitch frame twist the truck like a rag.

Just sayin'.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote