Using a file guide/holder

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Yooperforeman

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I've always sharpened my chains freehand,but when i purchased my new saw I bought a Stihl file guide.My question is,When using the guide do you let the flat part of the guide lay on the angle of the cutter and follow that angle as you make strokes with the file? In the manual with my saw it says to hold the file at 90 degrees to the bar,I've always held the handle of the file slightly downward.Which is correct?
When I freehand sharpen,after a few sharpenings I end up with a hook in the cutter,which I think is caused by the file getting too low in the cutter.The file guide should correct this problem.
 
Some chains' cutters have a 10 deg. angle (80 deg. to the bar).
File guides block your view, but they're good for someone that doesn't have an eye for the height of the file on the cutter.
 
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Sounds like you have the right idea. To low of a file height will get you hook like you mentioned. Some chain manufacturers want you to file at a slight angle and some don't. IIRC Stihl chain doesn't require it. Whether or not you file at a slight angle, or 90 degrees, is not a big deal. IMO it is not something that you will notice when cutting in any type of real world situation.
 
Hand filing is about a lot of visuals that have to be established before you get good at it. The filing guides will help you understand a lot of the angles and height of the file at the tooth but the fileing guide will never give you as good of a sharpening as freehand once you get all the angles and visuals of what a really sharp cutting tooth should look like.
Pioneerguy600
 
90 degrees as the manual says works for me.
sharpeneronbar1.jpg
 
Yeah,it feels akward using the guide,you can't see what you're doing.I'm going to stick with it for awhile and see how it goes.
 
Can I tell what kind of SET-UP I'm using? I think my Dad bought this at SEARS in 1962.
 
Oregon and maybe one or two other companies makes them.
I bought an Oregon one a few years ago and I returned it. I couldn't get it to work well. It might have had something to do with the plastic parts ? I recently ended up with a Granberg and, grudgingly, gave the concept another chance. It was like night and day, compared to the Oregon.
The Granberg (and the 2 old NOS Homelite-branded ones I've since aquired) are all metal.
If you get one, keep the slide lubricated. The bushings will wear out quick if you don't.
I keep one each rigged 5/32, 3/16, and 7/32. If I snag another one cheap I'll rig that one with a flat file for rakers.
 
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Sagetown,Can you tell me what kind of set up you're using in that picture?

I have a couple that were made by Oregon, one I bought back in the early '80's and another that came a saw case with a bunch of saws I bought. My major complaint was I couldn't get the little wooden ball to stay on the end of the file.
 
I bought an Oregon one a few years ago and I returned it. I couldn't get it to work well. It might have had something to do with the plastic parts ? I recently ended up with a Granberg and, grudgingly, gave the concept another chance. It was like night and day, compared to the Oregon.
The Granberg (and the 2 old NOS Homelite-branded ones I've since aquired) are all metal.
If you get one, keep the slide lubricated. The bushings will wear out quick if you don't.
I keep one each rigged 5/32, 3/16, and 7/32. If I snag another one cheap I'll rig that one with a flat file for rakers.

Excellent advice. I found that the White Grease in the Spray Can works best.


Guido Salvage ~ My major complaint was I couldn't get the little wooden ball to stay on the end of the file.

Hah ! I guess we all have ran into that problem.
 
I bought an Oregon one a few years ago and I returned it. I couldn't get it to work well. It might have had something to do with the plastic parts ? I recently ended up with a Granberg and, grudgingly, gave the concept another chance. It was like night and day, compared to the Oregon.
The Granberg (and the 2 old NOS Homelite-branded ones I've since aquired) are all metal.
If you get one, keep the slide lubricated. The bushings will wear out quick if you don't.
I keep one each rigged 5/32, 3/16, and 7/32. If I snag another one cheap I'll rig that one with a flat file for rakers.

I've used the same Granberg tool for ~35 yrs. now; still works great. Quick and simple to use with a short learning curve.
I've found that the one "wear-part" is the cylindrical bar that rides in the bushings you mention. At work years back, while working on some customer-sample very-high-pressure steel tubing (which fit the bushings very nicely), I liberated enough to cut into many new bars.
Files seem to last a very long time in this tool- mainly Sabre.
 
I have the STIHL file guide kit, and use it if I need to touch up the chain in the woods. I usually use my Northern 511 style grinder in the shop which is amazing. I noticed when I come out with a fresh sharpened full chisel chain it will last quite a while before I need to either change chains, or give a touch up. Problem is, and for the life of me I can't figure out why, the file guide sharp edge doesn't last long. It will cut perfect, then it just go dull, it's actually kind of annoying and I think I'm just gonna try freehand next time in the woods...:cheers:
 

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