Want to add a pressure gauge to your splitter?

[Kevin in Ohio]

Was wanting to fine tune my splitter and find out exactly what the pressure was so I started looking for options. Looked online and found a listing you guys might be interested in too. I ordered them and they seem to work very well. They were right at $20.00 for TWO shipped to my door. Stainless bodies and glycerin filled up to 3000 psi. They have worked so far and helped me out. Here is one installed.

To give you an idea of cost for the fittings, I'm running a 12 JIC(3/4 lines) and the fittings shown were around $35.00. They have an all in one "diagnostic" fitting but it was $45.00 and they had to order it so I went with what is shown. Smaller fittings would be less $ but wanted to give you an estimate on what you're looking at.

I have no affiliation with the seller but here is a link to the gauges.

2 PK 0 3000 PSI 2 5" Hydraulic Air Water Pressure Guage | eBay

For those of you that have gauges on your splitters. I have a shut off from the stand alone unit I used for my tank. Would it be wise to put it on? I'm kinda torn as it's going to make it stick WAY out there but would probably extend the life of the gauge. I may just take the whole thing off too and just put it back on if problems or such arise. Thoughts on what is best???

 

[blades]

I do not keep gauge on the unit, just something else to possibly get damaged as well as the extra hardware hanging around as you mentioned. Besides that would only be one point in the systems so would still have to switch it around if something went south for a positive ID. My thoughts any way. I have one gauge set up with a quick disconnects for use on my snowplows, super quick that way.

For those that do not have a gauge, sounds like a good deal. saves a lot of time second guessing where a problem might lie.

 

[nathon918]

just one thing on that glycerin filled gauge, if you leave it on.
just watch out in the winter depending how cold it gets, it might freeze on you and break the glass...

i wanted to put a liquid filled gauge on mine, but decided against it, and just put a dry 0-5000 psi on mine since it gets stored outside, i have mine panel mounted on the control panel, next to engine oil pressure gauge, 1/4" stainless hard line from gauge to engine/diagnostic port, with swagelok compression fittings

 

[Iska3]

Looks nice Kevin.. I'd like to put one on my spliter just to see what the output really is.

Thanks for posting.

 

[kevin j]

Here are some ISO standard gauge quick couplers. One side is 1/4Mnpt or -04 oring to mate your adaptor or valve port. Other side the QC part, if M16 x 2 thread. They connect or disconnect under full pressure up to 5000-6000 psi (not matter for your open center pump, but they are more commonly used in closed center industrial systems.) The male half stays on the machine,with a metal sealing cap on it.

Female half is on the gauge or transducer used for testing.

Many combinations of thread forms for the machine or the gauge. There are also other versions of the QC joint thread, but the M16x2 is by far the most common.

Stauff is just one brand, but one of the originators, so many others interchange.
About $15 per half, not sure what retail would be or where you would find locally.


Stauff

 

[super3]

Mine has always had a gauge and it's an oooold splitter,no shut off.

 

[RiverRocket]

dumb question, Is the gauge connected between the valve and the cylinder???? in your picture it looks like it's hooked up on the return line to the tank.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

dumb question, Is the gauge connected between the valve and the cylinder???? in your picture it looks like it's hooked up on the return line to the tank.

In the pic, it is the line coming from the pump and before the inlet on the auto cycle valve. All my lines have the 12, JIC fittings so I do have the option to put it on any connection if need be.

Kevin J, that a pretty nifty fitting. Lots of stuff out there the novices like me have no clue even exists. Thanks for the info.

I think I'll probably just take it off as opposed to put the valve in. Takes about 5 minutes to swap out so not a big deal. Thanks for the opinions guys.

 

[Yarz]

In the pic, it is the line coming from the pump and before the inlet on the auto cycle valve.

In that location, does it give a reading for all of the different pressures in the system as the levers are engaged? For example, will it give the pressure for your outriggers as well as the splitting cylinder?

I'm doing some build planning/thinking, and was thinking it should, but wanted to confirm. Thanks.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Outriggers are on a separate valve body via a power beyond port. Where it is shown is right off the pump BEFORE any valves. I do not keep it on when in use, I just used it to see what actual pressure I was getting off the pump. No real need to have it on when working as sooner or later, you're going to hit it with something and break it.

 

[Yarz]

So, correct me if I'm wrong, please:

If you had a problem with an outrigger (or if I used a log lift and adjustable wedge) that single gauge, before all of the valves, should be able to be used for measuring/diagnosing pressures on both the cylinder connected to the main splitting valve, as well as the one(s) connected to the downstream valve?

In the interest of future-proofing, it'd be great to not have to disassemble the system to move that "gauge-T-fitting-combination" to diagnose issues, or alternatively pay for additional fittings while building, just to allow just the gauge to be moved to separate points.

 

[muddstopper]

I have never had a gauge on my splitter. I just dead headed the cylinder and adjusted pressure till it started to lug the motor. I got a 25hp engine/28gpm 2stage pump 5in bore cyl, and its hard to find a piece of wood that will bog it down. If I wanted to fine tune or had multiple functions, I would probably add a gauge, but I think I would need a little bigger than a 3000psi gauge. I have blown many a 3000psi gauge on systems that are "set" for 2750psi. I found vibration kills dry gauges, even 5000psi ones.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

So, correct me if I'm wrong, please:

If you had a problem with an outrigger (or if I used a log lift and adjustable wedge) that single gauge, before all of the valves, should be able to be used for measuring/diagnosing pressures on both the cylinder connected to the main splitting valve, as well as the one(s) connected to the downstream valve?

In the interest of future-proofing, it'd be great to not have to disassemble the system to move that "gauge-T-fitting-combination" to diagnose issues, or alternatively pay for additional fittings while building, just to allow just the gauge to be moved to separate points.

You will not need that much pressure for a lift or wedge. You probably will need to reduce the pressure to slow them down as it will be too fast of movement. muddstopper is a guru when it comes to hydraulics and knows WAY more than me. We have put hydraulic pressure rated adjustable valves or washers to restrict flow on them to slow things down. Small cylinders and high GPM pumps react quickly. If you are planning on an adjustable wedge I'm assuming you may have a 5 inch cylinder or 20 + GPM pump.

You want your first stop after the pump to the valve for the splitting cylinder.

 

[Del_]

On my log splitter I put a t at the back of the ram cylinder. In the side of the T goes a 3/4 inch plug or my pressure gauge on a reducing fitting. I only use the gauge to set the relief pressure on the valve, and then I remove it. I have a similar set up on my chipper to set hydraulic pressure and I use the same gauge there. At other times the gauge is stored in the shop.

 

[milkie62]

I do not keep gauge on the unit, just something else to possibly get damaged as well as the extra hardware hanging around as you mentioned. Besides that would only be one point in the systems so would still have to switch it around if something went south for a positive ID. My thoughts any way. I have one gauge set up with a quick disconnects for use on my snowplows, super quick that way.

For those that do not have a gauge, sounds like a good deal. saves a lot of time second guessing where a problem might lie.

My pressure guage has been on my splitter since I built it in 1990. It gets to -20 around here and still have the original guage.

 

[muddstopper]

You will not need that much pressure for a lift or wedge. You probably will need to reduce the pressure to slow them down as it will be too fast of movement. muddstopper is a guru when it comes to hydraulics and knows WAY more than me. We have put hydraulic pressure rated adjustable valves or washers to restrict flow on them to slow things down. Small cylinders and high GPM pumps react quickly. If you are planning on an adjustable wedge I'm assuming you may have a 5 inch cylinder or 20 + GPM pump.

You want your first stop after the pump to the valve for the splitting cylinder.

Being called a Guru aint exactly what I have been called by real hydraulic experts.
Reducing the pressure wont slow down a cyl speed unless it is under a real load. You would need to reduce flow to reduce speed. A flow control valve will control the speed and still allow for full pressure. For small projects, I seldom spring the cash for a flow control valve, I will remove the hyd fitting from the cyl and tap the inside and then screw in a brass plug. I then just do trial and error and drill a hole thru the plug , starting with a small hole and then getting larger, until I get the flow/speed I desire. A 1/8 drill bit is usually a big enough hole to allow flow without having the cyl just shoot out every time I hit the control lever. It takes a little time to get it just right, but a $.15 plug is a lot cheaper than a $50 flow control and the extra plumbing. You can also buy restricted fittings, but they are nothing more than what I have already described.