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Those busted wedges work well to shim up a short leg on the kitchen table, put in a new shop man door, etc. :D
 
What is the purpose of the hand written numbers on the wedges?
Various attempts by different people to organize saw kits and equipment. Personally, I don't care if I use a wedge from 'Kit #4' with 'Saw #5'. But it can be hard to keep equipment organized when used by different teams of people.

Philbert
 
You can just walk up to a limb hanging out from a log with chain saw and make two tapered cuts to make a wedge. Table saw works OK too. If they are just a little moist they seem to be indestructible. I will try to get some pictures out. Thanks
 
Some folks need long, full-length wedges for falling large trees. I mostly use mine for keeping the kerf open when bucking, so even smaller, odd shaped ones are handy to carry in a pocket.

- I cut the damaged tips off with a bandsaw (hacksaw, or any fine tooth saw would work);
- Form a new bevel / taper with the belt sander, and re-shape any damaged parts;
- Cut off any 'fuzz' that forms with a sharp utility knife - the thermoplastic wedge material gets soft (and hot!) when sanded;
- Square the end with the disc sander;
- ***Form the final edge bevel by sanding into the wedge***. The thermoplastic material will melt back into a smooth, solid bevel, instead of forming a goopy, fuzzy, soft mess at the end.

Philbert
Similar restoration to to your self but use a belt sander on it"s slowest speed to shape the end it doesn't "fuss" the plastic as much
 
We make felling wedges anywhere when running chainsaws out of any available wood, prefer hardwoods but don`t matter much. Make them and leave them after using them, plenty of wood in the forest to make more.

That's a great idea. I've always thought it's ridiculous what they charge for plastic wedges. I think I'll use my 241 and go make a pile of wedges lol
 
Trying a few things to use in the field. Metalworking files are slow and clog up. A Surform works, is compact to carry, but is slow. A sharp block place worked OK, once any big pieces were cut off with a fine tooth saw (coping saw, hacksaw, Japanese woodworking saw, etc.).

IMG_1856.JPG

Trying a couple of 'curved tooth' files (they go by various names: 'babbit file', 'fitter's file', 'auto body filler file', etc.) which seem to shave off the plastic, rather than scrape it, and cut faster than any metal files I had (those dirty 'bastards'!) without filling up. About $20 each on Amazon.

IMG_2186.jpg
IMG_2187.jpg

IMG_2188.jpg

Philbert
 
I was hoping this thread was going to address refurbing steel splitting wedges. People don't realize how dangerous they are after starting to mushroom. Another good one nonetheless, Philbert.

One observation, though. For me, any wedge that has broken vs. getting in the way of a chain should get tossed. I noticed what appeared to be pieces broken off of a couple of the wedges you ultimately refurb'd. That indicates material too brittle for the task..., especially for felling when you're whackin' on it with lots of force. They can shatter and have shards embedded in you before you can even blink. Not that I think you have any serious felling in store for these refurbs. But brittle is brittle just the same. I've seen this happen and it took a few minutes for it to actually sink in. Fortunately there were no injuries to anyone.

Better to be overly cautious about a questionable one than trying to squeeze any additional use out of it.
 
I was hoping this thread was going to address refurbing steel splitting wedges. People don't realize how dangerous they are after starting to mushroom.

Different thread. Mine are on Page #2.
Maintain your splitting wedges !
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/maintain-your-splitting-wedges.310138/

For me, any wedge that has broken vs. getting in the way of a chain should get tossed.

IMG_2034.jpg
Example of a cheap, box store, plastic wedge that shattered on the first tree; next to an identical one, purchased at the same time.

If there is just a piece beat out of it by hammering, I round it over; usually due to misplaced blows than by material issues.

Philbert
 
A tight plastic wedge will cause some pretty aggressive kickback. Not sure if they teach that in class or not. Worth a mention.

I have hit a few, when working in tight quarters. I don't really agree with your observation. I have found that I could only tell if I was hitting the wedge was by the lovely yellow plastic slivers coming out of the saw. Naturally, anytime you encounter resistance on the tip or top of the bar, there is potential for loss of control.

Of course, this is why we use plastic wedges to begin with. Steel wedges would be preferable in almost all uses except that it trashes a chain.
 

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