wedges in felling big'uns

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techdave

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Howdy all . I have always used wedges on spars or any tree that looks to have a balanced crown. If it was a leaner and I was felling to the lean or towards obvious unbalanced crown I would not wedge. Now for the questions: Do I have to wedge on a balanced tree, or is there something about proper forecut, backcut, and hinge that "makes" the tree fall forwards. Am I wrong in thinnking if a tree was in balance straight up it would naturally want to sit down on the backcut if the backcut went beyond the center of the trunk??? Please let me know, until then I will keeep wedging. Thanks Dave in Eastern San Diego county.
 
wedging big'ns

Thanks Newfie, I have got a fire victim from the so called "Cedar fire" who wants some trees dropped. All Pines and Cedars, 3 supposed to be 24 inch dbh and one 36+ dbh but I will believe it when I see it. I have not looked at the place yet. It is private land so if it has been private for a long time it would all be 2nd growth. I guess in the 80 or 90 years since last logged a sugar (lambert) pine could get that big, or a ponderosa. We dont have that many Jeffrey or Coulters but they are possibles. Also Calocedrus decurrens, Western Cedar.

If nothing else It will give the 372 a little workout and give us some slabs for benches and bridging. Thanks Dave,
 
If you don't have a lot of experiance then wedging is your best bet and your safest.
 
Even when your pretty sure of the lean, you can stick a wedge in the back cut just a bit, to where it is hanging down just a bit. Then you have a good visual down by your saw for when the tree is starting to move and if its going in the right direction.;) But dont forget to look up.

John
 
wedges, felling big'uns

Thanks Ryan and John, I will keep wedging. John, I really like the idea of using the wedge as a gage. I usually use a spotter, and either the gap of the backcut or the ease of cutting towartds the hinge to tell me the backcut is opening up. thanks Dave.
 
When falling, I always put in a wedge, even if I detect forward movement while putting in the face. The only time I dont use wedges is on trees with favor to the lay. And you would be suprised at the amount of back lean you can pound over.
 
Originally posted by Newfie
Keep wedging. Cheap insurance for a couple of seconds to whack a wedge in the back cut.

Ditto.

Also makes a good tell-tale of when the tree is on its way; as opposed to sawing while looking up...
 
Where else should one be looking besides up? Any movement of the tree will be detected soonest by observation of the upper part of the tree.
 
Well... you really shouldn't be actually CUTTING while looking up. If ya hit something in the tree, you could be in for a nasty surprise. If I feel the need to look up, I stop cutting. Most of the time you can tell just by the kerf anyways.
 
It may not seem that way but trust me often by the time you see movement in the kerf its too late, also in the woods with other trees intertwined branches can fall from above and smash you as can tops out of snags. The way I was taght to fall was look up always while backcutting, looking forward or at the cut wont change a thing, a guy can glance around but keep your eyes up.
 
I can always tell exactly just what a tree's doing by sighting up it and taking a bead on a cloud for comparison.

TC
 
I wish I had used a wedge this past weekend! I had my saw pinched and the tree went the "wrong" way. I ended up going with it and things worked out fine....but it could've been much worse. As soon as my saw pinched, it was "why didn't I use a wedge!!!" :angry:
 
I go along with the need to look up ( a lot ) when falling timber. Most of the cutting accidents that I have been around, guys that I have helped pack out, have been hit from above. I am sure that no one is saying that there is no need to look up, but from a safety standpoint I think it is a cutters most common and deadly mistake.

John
 
Of course you should be looking up from time to time, at least.

I'm just saying that you shouldn't be looking up and cutting at the same time; particularly with residential trees that have a high possibility of having foreign material in them.
 
Do I have to wedge on a balanced tree, or is there something about proper forecut, backcut, and hinge that "makes" the tree fall forwards. Am I wrong in thinnking if a tree was in balance straight up it would naturally want to sit down on the backcut if the backcut went beyond the center of the trunk???

I'll try to answer his original question:

In a perfect world, perfect tree, perfectly balanced crown, the center of gravity of the tree (cgt) would be centered in the trunk. If you cut past the center, the wood left holding it up would (no pun intnd) have to be strong enough not to bend (elastic/plastic deformation) or collaspe (buckling). So with no wind and strong wood, you'd probably be fine. I'm sure maple, oak, poplar, etc would all behave differently [that would be a fun test, don't you think?]
But like it was said, why take the chance?, go with the cheap insurance.

I'll leave it up to the pros to discuss cutting, etc... as I am still learning as much as possible there. plus it's probably on plenty of other threads.
 
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