welder selection

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ESABs are a production machine pure and simple. They are made to be worked. If I had to get a new welder I would go with an ESAB unit. I have personally beaten them in numerous fab shops and have never seen a failure. I have seen Lincolns fail numerous times. As to the windings this was an issue I was warned about by a welding supplier I bought from all the time. I'm not sure if they got smart and went back yet. You would have to ask the place you purchase the welder from. As I feel you will not be doing heavy fab work I think you would be perfectly fine with a Miller. I highly recommend the DVI unit as you can use it just about anywhere. The duty cycle and amp rating are lower running it as a 110 unit but it can be used anywhere in case of an emergency. I personally have an engine driven Lincoln, a small Lincoln 110v unit, the Miller 255, and an ancient Lincoln AC/DC buzzbox.
 
Tzed, it seems as though i have hit a soft spot. So you dont get too red its just HUMOR :) He is building a wood splitter not running yards of bead on some half inch steel working 40 hour weeks...
I know i would rather have a good TIG/stick rig than a mig unit of equal value.
Then again I am a timber faller not a welder!:cheers:
 
Tzed, it seems as though i have hit a soft spot. So you dont get too red its just HUMOR :) He is building a wood splitter not running yards of bead on some half inch steel working 40 hour weeks...
I know i would rather have a good TIG/stick rig than a mig unit of equal value.
Then again I am a timber faller not a welder!:cheers:

No soft spot, if it was humor then maybe you should have inserted a smiley. The OP mentioned fab work, and the MIG excels in that environment. The MIG is versatile too. Thin to thick it will get the job done, like the welds on this muffler:





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A bit harder to do with a stick.





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Very true there. I first learned to run a bead using an acetaline torch then bought myself a stick, when i wanted to replace sheet metal on my 70 duster i bought a little 110 Lincoln mig and loved it. But when it comes to big metal and simplicity, its stick for mee
 
Hi guys, I want a powerful mig welder that will hold up and last for years. I will not use it everyday, but would rather pay for something of quality. Like my saws I like to buy the best, I appreciate high quality. I will call Miller, Esab and Lincoln to find out about the copper for the transformer. I will not only use the welder to build a splitter, but fab work as well, and want something versatile that can weld thin to thick, whatever I come across. I consider the machine a long term investment, that I will have for years.....maybe I should just go with Esab?...any other thoughts?
 
miller,hobart, lincoln all make nice stuff. actually miller and hobart are the same company now. i personally have a old lincoln ac stick welder and i just bought a little 110 hobart buzz box forget what model. anyway i like it for what it is but the little 110's tend to run cold on thicker material. sounds like money isnt an issue so any machine from those 3 brands will serve you very well. id have to say ive had waaay more hours on a miller than anything. i used to build aluminum bodies from scratch for big government, police, military, trucks. the biggest one was a truck that would x-ray the entire box of a tractor trailer, for boarder inspections etc. it was over 65k lbs when it was done. i think we made 7 of those i try not to think about it anymore lol.
 
It turns out that all 3 manufacturers are now using aluminum in their transformer windings. Esab only usues it in their secondary windings. Miller and Lincoln use aluminum throughout their transformer construction for their mig welders...this process I was told began this year, due to the price of copper..I would rather spend more on a machine then have a cheaper lesser quality unit, typical of new products...
 
Not sure how old it is, got it used but in great shape. Lincoln Power Mig 255, nice unit! Much nicer it use than my old Hobart.

Get a 220 volt unit, 110 volts is for lights!! :buttkick:

I like the mig for clean smooth welds or lots of starts and stops, but when I need to do thick stuff I like to use a stick, help keep me in practice.
 
miller,hobart, lincoln all make nice stuff. actually miller and hobart are the same company now. i personally have a old lincoln ac stick welder and i just bought a little 110 hobart buzz box forget what model. anyway i like it for what it is but the little 110's tend to run cold on thicker material. sounds like money isnt an issue so any machine from those 3 brands will serve you very well. id have to say ive had waaay more hours on a miller than anything. i used to build aluminum bodies from scratch for big government, police, military, trucks. the biggest one was a truck that would x-ray the entire box of a tractor trailer, for boarder inspections etc. it was over 65k lbs when it was done. i think we made 7 of those i try not to think about it anymore lol.

True...Hobart is made by Miller. Hobarts are made with lesser quality pieces like having more plastic in them when the Millers have aluminum parts. I have a Millermatic 135.... It had the Hobart sittin' right next to it when I purchased it... the salesman opened them up and showed me the differences... I chose the Miller and never would give Hobart another thought. Welders are just like our saws.... It's pretty much personal preference and what local support you have... Lincoln and Miller is like comparing Husky and Stihl.... They both make good products. Considering the machines you already have.... I would stick the splitter work with 7018's... and save the money. Between your tig and small mig... you got it covered. Unless you plan on working with heavy gauge steel often... Then a large mig should be considered for ease of use.
 
A few years back I took some night classes for welding at a local high school. I was able to try out all of the different machines and I found that I liked the ESAB and Miller the best. When I went out to buy a machine, I found a lot more Miller and Lincoln machines available. I ended up purchasing a used Millermatic 251 and I love it. I really didn't need a machine that big but I found one used at a good price so I bought it. I also like having a large machine with a longer duty cycle. It welds much better than the smaller machines but it is huge and heavy so if you ever need to bring it anywhere, you'll need a truck and a friend to help load it. Whenever I need to travel somewhere to weld something, I bring a Thermal Arc ProWave 185TSW. Its great for GTAW and SMAW, it's extremely portable and people are always shocked at how well that little thing welds. But if you have to weld big stuff at home, you can't go wrong with the Miller or ESAB.

Once you get your new welder, make sure you get the hang of it before you start on your splitter. Weld a few similar pieces of material and cut them in half to check the penetration. You will find a lot of inexperienced people weld beautiful beads with a MIG only to find that there was no penetration into the base material. This is more of a problem with the small MIGs welding material that is too large for their output but can still happen if you set up your machine wrong.

If you end up using the stick to do the job, watch out for the 7018 electrodes if you are not familiar with them. They are great for someone who is experienced but can be a pita for someone who isn't. They need to be kept bone dry and if you don't have a rod oven, a 7014 might be a better choice. I know some will disagree with me on this but they can probably weld better than I can.:) (And yes, I know that all welding rods should be dry. 7018's need to be bone dry!)

Good luck with your decision!

Brian
 
You also have the option of running just a wire feeder. It will work with your tig machine and can hold 50lb rolls of wire. My Dad uses one at work made by Lincoln with Hyundai flux-core wire. Works very well, wish we had another.
 
Buying a Welder to "Modify" a splitter that is already built is stupid. Use your Stick welder from the TIG machine. These machines were enough to help us Kick Germany's and Japan's A$$es in WWII, they are good enough to re work a splitter. Hell it was probably originally built with a stick welder. If you want to buy a welder for many more projects go for it, but please do not waste all your money on this one project.

Yes, if you can not weld with a Stick, I do not consider you a welder. I bet dollars to donuts that those guys who are laying down 44 pound spools in one shift learned how to weld with a stick.

But again, I do love using a MIG most, but for hard facing steel, you need to use a stick.




2 44lb. spools in 9.5 hours...
 
Here's my input, On the single phase machines I've always found Lincoln to weld smoother, less splatter, doesn't crackle as much when welding. The Millers I've used except the old Millermatic 200 from years ago, are splatter boxes, I personally cannot stand them. I would buy a Lincoln if I didn't have a 20+ year old Hobart thats welds better than anything I've ever used in the single phasers. Now in the 3 phase class I cannot tell much difference they all seem to weld fine. I must add the splatter issues I'm talking about is when your welding at low voltages 17-20v, when they are cranked up the difference isn't that much. I'd go with Lincoln, I have portable Ranger9, a old Idealiarc tig that workes great, a Lincoln v205 inverter tig, and a old Hobart beta-mig (when Hobart was Hobart, I'd stay clear of the new Hobarts) and a Lincoln pro-cut 25 plasma cutter... And a old Miller stick welder, that was my first welder! Hi my name is Frank and I collect welders....
 
Nah, just turn the Speed way up.

That wasn't an option, where we work there is welding parameters that the Metal Building Manufacturer Association puts limits on, welding outside of those parameters of 400 IPM and 30 volts would get you a warning. In order for us to hold that license you have to be certified in 1 and 2G weld positions with 1" plate and weld within those limits. But 400 IPM was still moving:)
 
I have a 250DC and 300AC Lincoln stick and a C-K Systematics 300 MIG. I did hillside drilling for years. Mig for production, 7018 for when it mattered, and Studie 101HC MIG for hard facing. The flights on my big augers were 1" thick steel and needed regular rebuilding/hard facing. MIG hard facing was so much faster and lasted very well. The 2 1/2" square drive hubs were welded to 3/8" wall 3 3/4 inch round tubing. MIG did not hold up as well as 7018 with the constant torque and moments when rocks were hit. My Excavator drill head had 12,500 pounds of torque and I have snapped off a 2 1/2" square piece of 4140 when it hit a rock. I ran .045" MIG wire most of the time. MIG was fine for most stuff, but auger drive hubs and structural repair was always with 7018.
 
It turns out that all 3 manufacturers are now using aluminum in their transformer windings. Esab only usues it in their secondary windings. Miller and Lincoln use aluminum throughout their transformer construction for their mig welders...this process I was told began this year, due to the price of copper..I would rather spend more on a machine then have a cheaper lesser quality unit, typical of new products...

go to your local dealer and see if they have an left over models from last year... with the copper windings its worth a shot.
 
what's a decent used price for a lincoln ac/dc 225 stick welder?

I have a Lincoln AC/DC 225 stick welder, the one that looks like a tomb stone. That little thing kicks butt. Not that expensive either.
 

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