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origionalrebel

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in welding the components for a hydraulic splitter. i have an ac/dc welder. what type rods for welding 1" and 3/4" bar and plate? what technique would you use? you can see what materials i plan to use on my thread "another splitter build"
 
I would bevel and run a root pass with 1/8" 6010 and cap with 1/8" 7018. On a splitter you will find out quick if your welds are strong. One nice thing about metal is you can grind and redo.
 
If the machine will run 1/8" 7018 that is what I would use all the way out. You can get the metal clean enough to not need to use 6010 for the first pass. 135-150 amps would be the range you should be in to get 1/8" 7018 to lay down good. If the metal is cold and you have a torch it wouldn't be a bad idea to get it to 100° before you start welding.
 
i totally agree with the stress test part finding the flaws. that's what i want to avoid if i can. the advice you gave on the 6010 and 7018 is about what i've found on some welding sites too. thanks
 
what kind of temps do you think i should start with on this? i've never even used the dc side of my welder. learned to weld on an ole tombstone ac.
i'm gonna try to find some scrap to practice on lol
 
If the machine will run 1/8" 7018 that is what I would use all the way out. You can get the metal clean enough to not need to use 6010 for the first pass. 135-150 amps would be the range you should be in to get 1/8" 7018 to lay down good. If the metal is cold and you have a torch it wouldn't be a bad idea to get it to 100° before you start welding.

thanks, my next post was before i read this one.
 
would you use 7018 ac or 7018 dc rods?

If you have a AC Welder you can only use AC rods. You can use AC or DC rods welding with a DC machine. Why ?

Unless the way rods are made when I learned back in the 70's I was taught that AC rods have a material in them which allows them to continue to burn when the cycle changes. AC current swings (or arcs) back and forth in cycles. DC rods do not have this material.

Pay attention to the more experienced guys who weld often as what they would use.

Nosmo
 
I use and like both AC and DC; dc starts easier (I guess).
The only place I insist on AC is with anything that can hold a static charge.

If you haven’t welded much go with DC, after you get good at welding the only thing that will matter is matching the stick with the metal you’re welding.

Both are good and will do the job.

One time I had to build a trailer all I had was a 110 volt outlet
So that left me with a 110 volt AC buzz box. I built an 8 by 14 foot flat bed trailer
with an ac buzz box that weighed no more then 15 pounds and was smaller then a bred box. 25 years later it’s still a good strong useable piece of equipment.

A good welder is a good grinder but a good grinder is not necessarily a good welder.

for best results use new rod and keep it dry.
 
If you have a AC Welder you can only use AC rods. You can use AC or DC rods welding with a DC machine. Why ?

Unless the way rods are made when I learned back in the 70's I was taught that AC rods have a material in them which allows them to continue to burn when the cycle changes. AC current swings (or arcs) back and forth in cycles. DC rods do not have this material.

Pay attention to the more experienced guys who weld often as what they would use.

Nosmo

my understanding is you get a cleaner weld with better penetration with a dc weld. just what i have read. the 6010 rod is also suppose to dig into the material to allow better penetration and is only available as a dc rod
 
i've built lots and lots of "STUFF" through the years but when i stop and think of it, i can't remember ever striking an arc on anything thicker than 1/2", just never had the need i guess.
 
the 6010 and 7018 both good for the work, but depending on the size of the material your welding, anything over 6" square , id be pre-heating the material before welding, not just where your welding, but all around it. use a rosebud, or a propane weed burner works pretty good in a pinch

usually anything over 3/4" material we pre-heat, all of the material around the weld will act as heat sink and pull the heat right out of the weld, causing it to cool too fast and usually cracking the weld .
small parts dont usually need pre-heating because the weld heats the material up pretty good
 
Good info given but need to stress that it is best to V groove so you can basically get full penetration with a few passes. ensuring a strong joint.

MVC-024S_1.JPG


V it out and lay down the first pass.

MVC-025S.JPG


Second pass and do another if needed. This was only 1/2 inch stuff here.

MVC-021S_14.JPG


1 1/2" plates here with same thing, just takes more passes.

MVC-023S_9.JPG


3 passes here.

MVC-018S_54.JPG


Keeping the bevels even and CLEANLINESS of the steel will help you a lot. It helps too to keep a list of the size of metal and amp setting used when you get it dialed in to what worked the best. I still do that occasionally on projects.
 
I would bevel and run a root pass with 1/8" 6010 and cap with 1/8" 7018. On a splitter you will find out quick if your welds are strong. One nice thing about metal is you can grind and redo.

May need a double pass on the 7018 cap on that thickness and width of your bevel, IMHO.
 
Good info given but need to stress that it is best to V groove so you can basically get full penetration with a few passes. ensuring a strong joint.

MVC-024S_1.JPG


V it out and lay down the first pass.

MVC-025S.JPG


Second pass and do another if needed. This was only 1/2 inch stuff here.

MVC-021S_14.JPG


1 1/2" plates here with same thing, just takes more passes.

MVC-023S_9.JPG


3 passes here.

MVC-018S_54.JPG


Keeping the bevels even and CLEANLINESS of the steel will help you a lot. It helps too to keep a list of the size of metal and amp setting used when you get it dialed in to what worked the best. I still do that occasionally on projects.

kevin, just send me that big ole yeller thang you got there and i won't worry bout my ole junk, lol
seriously though, i read your build thread and it is one thing that inspired my build. i plan to build a processor with a splitter similar to what you built on a unit similar to the logrite processor. may take a while but i'm gathering some great advice on here. beautiful work on that catersplitter.
 
Always a good idea to keep welding rods warm and dry, especially low-hydrogen ones like 7018. Your arc will start much smoother. If mine draw any dampness, just by having them in my shop while I'm welding, they will just stop burning as you're laying a bead. Warm 'em up and they flow much nicer. If the wood burner is going, I just lay them on top of it.
 
kevin, just send me that big ole yeller thang you got there and i won't worry bout my ole junk, lol
seriously though, i read your build thread and it is one thing that inspired my build. i plan to build a processor with a splitter similar to what you built on a unit similar to the logrite processor. may take a while but i'm gathering some great advice on here. beautiful work on that catersplitter.

I'm afraid I'll have to keep er'! ;) Thanks for the kind words and glad it helped to inspire you to try. I've learned a lot from others here and that's what's nice about boards like this, sharing info to make our lives easier.
 
I'm afraid I'll have to keep er'! ;) Thanks for the kind words and glad it helped to inspire you to try. I've learned a lot from others here and that's what's nice about boards like this, sharing info to make our lives easier.

Kevin what mig are you using? I get to play with the Lincon 256's at school:heart: I am trying to talk the wife into one. Well that and a Dynasty 350 and a plasma table and.....It's worse than CAD.
 

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