What do you do

[brisawyer]

Bought a Camelback for the hot weather I love it I wear it anytime its over 75 and im working. Try it you will be surprised how much more water you drink when its right there and you dont have to stop. I stay hydrated and feel better at the end of the day.
I bought mine on ebay for $4 and put a new bite valve on it for $5. My uroligist suggested I get one after he had to bust up a 10 mm kidney stone.

 

[Wood Doctor]

A Few More Tips

(1) Cut all rounds and logs as close to the same length as possible (mine are 16" to 18". My truck bed is 72", so four rows pack tight horizontally. Keep the leftover cookies for campfires and kindling.

(2) Unless you are young and strong, get a hydraulic log splitter. There will not be enough smaller branches. About 75% of the tree's mass has to be split.

(3) Use two chain saws, one for smaller logs and one for felling and bucking big logs. I like one with a 16" bar and a bigger one with a 20" and/or 24" bar. Both see about the same duty.

(4) Keep the chains sharp and carry two chains for each saw to the worksite. If one gets dull, stop wasting time and fuel and change it out.

(5) If you cut a big round you cannot lift to the tailgate in one heave, make stairs out of other rounds and flip it end over end. That way you are only lifing half of its weight. If you can't flip it, noodle cut it in half.

(6) Consider building racks for your truck. See my avatar. Drivers of other vehicles following you will respect you for that.

(7) Try to get any log that you are cutting off the ground. If you cannot raise it, cut it to within 4" and roll it over. Hitting the ground with the chain dulls it immediately.

(8) When cutting a large round, watch the kerf. If it starts to close up, stop immediately to avoid a pinched bar. You can either roll the log, finish the cut from the bottom up, or drive a felling wedge into the kerf to hold it.

(9) Pour your chain oil from the gallon jug into a fabric softener bottle, a syrup bottle, or a 1-quart oil bottle to dispense it into the saw. If you buy it by the gallon, it's about half the unit price of a quart.

(10) Always stack your firewood. It air dries better and is easier to retrieve and measure what you have collected.

Hey, I could go on and on, but I'll let the forum take it from here. We could probably write a book on the subject because there are so many tasks involved. Whoever said this work was easy?

 

[cnice_37]

By the way, there's a 7-pager on this subject, worth a read.

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/131422.htm

 

[greengiant]

Personally, I like the idea of the sharpie to mark out 16" on my bar(I've never done that, but plan to now) I'm sure it will need to be remarked every so often when it wears down. For anyone that gets a log load of decent, straight logs, I saw this tool on 'This Old House' one time, and I imagine it would be pretty efficient if you want to spend the money:
The Mingo Firewood Marker

 

[woodguy105]

I've got a little 4 1/4 foot by 5 foot trailer w/ 2 foot sides. I tow it with my 19 hp. lawn tractor. I use to split all my wood , toss in a pile then pull up the wagon and load and transport to the stacking area.

Now I simply back the trailer(perpendicular to the beam) right up to the side of the splitter(Timberwolf TWP-1) and set the tail gate on the bottom of the Ibeam. Makes a perfect sturdy log table and I can split and toss right into the trailer, then take to the stacking area. I eliminated lots of wasted time and energy....Unfortunately I DIDN'T think of it until I'd been splitting for a few years...:bang:

anything to save time and your back!

 

[mimilkman1]

My biggest frustration was when I was cutting alone and got my saw pinched. I started out carrying a spare bar and chain, and swapping out, but then I got a few felling wedges and always had one in my back pocket and set it in the kerf when I saw it start to close. My only frustration was I had no way to keep my hatchet right with me to drive it if needed. It fell out of my hammer loops on my bibs, or I left it 25 feet down the log. Also get a peavey, they are indespensible if you can't get a log off of the ground. Just make your cuts right on down to 3\4 depth and roll the log over to complete the cuts

 

[Wood Doctor]

My biggest frustration was when I was cutting alone and got my saw pinched. I started out carrying a spare bar and chain, and swapping out, but then I got a few felling wedges and always had one in my back pocket and set it in the kerf when I saw it start to close. My only frustration was I had no way to keep my hatchet right with me to drive it if needed. It fell out of my hammer loops on my bibs, or I left it 25 feet down the log. Also get a peavey, they are indespensible if you can't get a log off of the ground. Just make your cuts right on down to 3\4 depth and roll the log over to complete the cuts

Don't feel too bad. I once watched a tree-limbing company stick three saws into a big mulberry tree that they had just dropped. A fourth saw was finally found and used to cut the other three out.

 

[treemandan]

Lots of good suggestions and here's two I'd like to add(though I don't think these are the kind of suggestions the OP was fishing for...less wood burnt means less work at the wood lot):

1) I've got a wood shed that will hold about 20 cords....so.....I always burn very seasoned wood. About two months ago I filled one bay with about 3.5 cords of Leland cypress ....all from one removal job

2) I heat with a 75% efficient EPA wood stove and run it as efficiently as I know how.

You mean those little evergreen tree thingies? 3.5 cords? WTF?

 

[pacman]

When I get a saw pinched I will just drive a wedge in to take the pressure off, then pull it out.

Tip I do is... I cut in the woods then split. I never leave cut peices in the woods. Split enough to fill the trailer and bed.

I cut three tops out in the woods a few years ago, went back it was all gone except the pieces too big to pick up by one person. It took me all day to cut that wood.

 

[mdotis]

Backpack

I found an old backpack that I put all the things I use in the woods. That way all I have to do is grab the pack and I am ready to go. When I get home I always replace anything that I used up in the backpack. This is a big time saver as I never have to look all over the place before I leave and almost never get to the woods without everything I need. This pack holds everything from saftey glasses, hearing protection, files, extra chains, water, tools, tape measure, and side walk chalk. (works great for marking the cuts), wedges, first aid kit, you name it, it is always in the backpack ready to go.

 

[homemade]

When stacking the wood to be dried outside. split around the out side to make the rounds smaller, not trying to muscle threw the middle. This will save on the back and hydro slpitter either way. Then you'll also have the bark on one side of the split peice to start the bottom row bark down and the rest bark up to keep the rain/snow off and speed up the dry time

 

[spike60]

Tons of great advice here, let me see if I can add a couple things. I don't cut commercially; just for myself or when helping a buddy. So, I'm not concerned with speed or production. In fact, I'm having a good time when in the woods so I just move along at a steady but mellow pace.

1.- Best method for measuring I've seen was a simple idea that a friend came up with. Cut a small piece of wood to your desired length and walk down the log marking it off with playground chalk.

2.-Always a good idea to have an extra length of starter rope in the toolbox; with the ends already melted closed.

3.- I always fuel and fire up the saws before I leave home. This is especially important if you're bringing a saw that you haven't run in a while.

4.- Things to bring: Bug spray in the summer, extra ear plugs, extra boots if it's muddy, saline solution if you wear contacts.

5.- Always clean the saws and touch up the chain when done. Every saw gets put away sharp so it'll be ready for the next time.

At home? If you haven't got one, build yourself a woodshed! It's as worthwhile an investment as a splitter. Wood is always dry, no messing with tarps and crap. Best thing I did besides the stove itself. Ran an electric line out there and I just flip on the light and go grab an arm load of wood. As easy as getting beer out of the fridge. :msp_biggrin:

 

[mhyme71]

I learned this trick from a guy on here .

Take a small piece of dog chain say 12-18 inches and a bunjee cord and strap it around the round you are gonna split. It is completely adjustable because of the dog chain unless it is really small stuff. This keeps you from having to pick up the round every time you bust a piece off. It helps to have different length bunjee cords but mainly a 2 footer works well.

IF felling trees leave the dogs at home
Dont fell trees by yourself
Carry wedges and a spud bar
Carry a hatchet or axe too

Finally,

Dont do what i do
I pick up the rounds in the woods and put it in the trailer
I pick up the rounds in the trailer and unload them at the splitter
I pick up the rounds and put them on the splitter
I then pick up the splits and put them in the truck
I pick up the splits in the truck and stack them in the barn
I pick up the splits in the barn and load them in the yard trailer
I pick up the splits out of the yard trailer and stack them by the OWB
Finally I load the damn thing!!

Thankfully i am still young and healthy and i can still do this

 

[AIM]

This is somewhere between a tip and an opinion.
If you want a dedicated wood truck. Consider one with a service body.

Those beds are the cat's meow for carrying all your saws, straps, tools, etc. I keep 3 saws, extra chains, gas, pry bars, axe, tools, cooler, gloves, and more at all times. Never have to unload them. Never piling wood on top of stuff. Always dry and ready to go.

Certainly not for everyone but works great for me.

 

[r&r]

I learned this trick from a guy on here .

Take a small piece of dog chain say 12-18 inches and a bunjee cord and strap it around the round you are gonna split. It is completely adjustable because of the dog chain unless it is really small stuff. This keeps you from having to pick up the round every time you bust a piece off. It helps to have different length bunjee cords but mainly a 2 footer works well.

IF felling trees leave the dogs at home
Dont fell trees by yourself
Carry wedges and a spud bar
Carry a hatchet or axe too

Finally,

Dont do what i do
I pick up the rounds in the woods and put it in the trailer
I pick up the rounds in the trailer and unload them at the splitter
I pick up the rounds and put them on the splitter
I then pick up the splits and put them in the truck
I pick up the splits in the truck and stack them in the barn
I pick up the splits in the barn and load them in the yard trailer
I pick up the splits out of the yard trailer and stack them by the OWB
Finally I load the damn thing!!

Thankfully i am still young and healthy and i can still do this

That bunjee strap idea sounds awesome!
It always puts a smile on my face when a piece stays upright after the first split being able to control that will save so much time.
Great tip.

 

[fields_mj]

I tried mounting a 24" stick of plywood to my bar. It did okay, but was more of a nucance. Now I limb away the stuff I don't want with my 024, then put the stick on it and cut up the little stuff. I use a small C clamp, and then ply wood is attached to a small pice of aluminum angle so that I can just clamp the angle to the bar and go. I just make a light cut to mark it, and move on. Then go back with the 036 to buck up the rounds. On the trunk, I just use a 25' tape and a 99 cent carpenters crayon from the hardware store. This all helps me to stack as much as possible into the truck bed.

I also try to make sure that I stay hydrated through out the day.

A hydraulic splitter wouldn't normally help me much, so I bought an 064 for a couple of big trees that need to come down in the yard. It also doubles as my splitter. I go most of the way with it, and then hit the round with an axe. From there, everything will split with one hit so it's quick.

Mark

 

[woodfar]

what do you do?

"What do you use to make your marks for each cut? We have been using one of those paint sticks that are made to mark on cows and it goes through them to fast."

I have a 2x2 that is marked off in the lengths like Guido has but is only about 3 ft. long and make my marks with a hatchet, one length at a time.

I keep a stick behind seat of pickup the length I want rounds. Use spray paint to mark log.

 

[woodfar]

(1) Cut all rounds and logs as close to the same length as possible (mine are 16" to 18". My truck bed is 72", so four rows pack tight horizontally. Keep the leftover cookies for campfires and kindling.

(2) Unless you are young and strong, get a hydraulic log splitter. There will not be enough smaller branches. About 75% of the tree's mass has to be split.

(3) Use two chain saws, one for smaller logs and one for felling and bucking big logs. I like one with a 16" bar and a bigger one with a 20" and/or 24" bar. Both see about the same duty.

(4) Keep the chains sharp and carry two chains for each saw to the worksite. If one gets dull, stop wasting time and fuel and change it out.

(5) If you cut a big round you cannot lift to the tailgate in one heave, make stairs out of other rounds and flip it end over end. That way you are only lifing half of its weight. If you can't flip it, noodle cut it in half.

(6) Consider building racks for your truck. See my avatar. Drivers of other vehicles following you will respect you for that.

(7) Try to get any log that you are cutting off the ground. If you cannot raise it, cut it to within 4" and roll it over. Hitting the ground with the chain dulls it immediately.

(8) When cutting a large round, watch the kerf. If it starts to close up, stop immediately to avoid a pinched bar. You can either roll the log, finish the cut from the bottom up, or drive a felling wedge into the kerf to hold it.

(9) Pour your chain oil from the gallon jug into a fabric softener bottle, a syrup bottle, or a 1-quart oil bottle to dispense it into the saw. If you buy it by the gallon, it's about half the unit price of a quart.

(10) Always stack your firewood. It air dries better and is easier to retrieve and measure what you have collected.

Hey, I could go on and on, but I'll let the forum take it from here. We could probably write a book on the subject because there are so many tasks involved. Whoever said this work was easy?

I am 60 yrs old and can't lift as much as I once did so I compensate by always carrying a small floor jack to lift logs, felling wedges, 6' pry bar, log tongs and splitting wedges. I never have help so I always try to split wood on site. When I get it to the house it is ready to stack. Can't lift the rounds onto the truck anymore. If round is too heavy to roll to the splitter I will noodle. I always try to leave rounds on their edge so they roll like a wheel. I also use a vertical splitter.

 

[WidowMaker]

Without a doubt, a hydraulic log lift on our spilter and catch table...next maybe a tommy lift on the Trk/trailer...

 

[Wood Doctor]

WoodFar said:

"I always try to leave rounds on their edge so they roll like a wheel."

+1. There is another reason for doing that. The rounds dry faster when stored horizontally and they are easier to remove from the ground when the spring thaw arrives. If you store the cylinders flat side down, they will freeze solid to the ground and dry more slowly.