parrisw
Tree Freak
ha ha. That would be cool, but to find the time. That's a bit of a drive. About 4hrs maybe? Where is your shop? Do you still work at C&L Supply?
What is Horsepower?
- Thread starter Simonizer
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ha ha. That would be cool, but to find the time. That's a bit of a drive. About 4hrs maybe? Where is your shop? Do you still work at C&L Supply?
parrisw
Tree Freak
If ya don't mind, PM me or email. We can talk seriously about modding. I wont tell.
Simonizer
Addicted to ArboristSite
394 CandyLane. No I work for me and my fallers. 3 hr drive from Vic at the speed limit.
SawTroll
Information Collector
You would want to see a hp curve and torque curve over lay.. and in the case of the saw.. likely have the torque curve near top of rpm level.. which it may not be in all engines!!
Take my diesel pickup.. torque peak is WAY below rpm peak.. but she has one might low end pulling power
But as chainsaws are operated a WOT.. then you want the torque up near there as well..
Exactly, what happens above max hp rpms is the most interesting part, and that is one of the reasons I mostly prefer Husky saws, but also the Euro MS361 (never tried the demoted US one).
What cuts wood is chain speed and cutter design/number, nothing else actually!
parrisw
Tree Freak
Cool, if for some reason I find myself with a spare day. I'd be more then happy to come up and visit.
Simonizer
Addicted to ArboristSite
No problem, the weather will be getting nice soon. Cheers, Simon.
indiansprings
Firewood Purveyor
Ok, I'll give you some slack. It's hard after being a buyer and divisional at Wally World for almost 19 years. Always was anal about studying the seller's product and becoming more familiar with it than the salesman they sent in to sell it. Always liked to go to the factories too. I liked to see how they made it, study how much labor was in it, all to use against them on haggling prices. Sometimes there was so little labor in products you could get close to figuring out what they had in it by getting the raw material cost and just factoring in an estimated conversion cost.
Breaking down component cost was another easy way to figure out mfg cost. People would roll over if they got to see how inexpensive these saws are to build. Entry level saws won't exceed 40-44 dollars first cost out of a factory.
Breaking down component cost was another easy way to figure out mfg cost. People would roll over if they got to see how inexpensive these saws are to build. Entry level saws won't exceed 40-44 dollars first cost out of a factory.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Speeds limits are "tentative" here as they are way too low, even though fines are very high if you are cought (happens very seldom) - I aim at "20 over", when conditions on the road are good, and have been cought only two times in 30+ years.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Close, but not really correct, but you can of course calibrate them to anything you want, that is directly related to kW output.
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I completely understand wanting true HP numbers, actually it would be awesome. The problem is I've yet to find an affordable and viable option. I know TW has one he made and from what I've read, he's put a lot of money and time into it, and it's still not ready, maybe he'll come along and fill us in. My point, a dyno is out of the financial realm of chainsaws, a builder is working on a $800.00 saw for a few hundred dollars, not expensive cars. The best way to measure gains, like it or not is timed cuts. Timed cuts are far from perfect, but it does gives us something.:msp_smile:
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Timed cuts are good.
Some want numbers and they can find other people that will deliver numbers for the right price.
A saw that wins GTG's may not win in the woods where the rules of the game are far different.
Mr. HE
Some want numbers and they can find other people that will deliver numbers for the right price.
A saw that wins GTG's may not win in the woods where the rules of the game are far different.
Mr. HE
Timed cuts are good.
Some want numbers and they can find other people that will deliver numbers for the right price.
A saw that wins GTG's may not win in the woods where the rules of the game are far different.
Mr. HE
Good point. It's too bad that timed cuts can't be done in something big enough to really measure the all out performance of the saw. Cutting little logs and cants is fine and a lot of the guys enjoy it. But real timed cuts should have some real time to them. 36 or 48 inches of that good eastern hardwood would be ideal.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Yep, but there are more problems with the "timed cuts", as I stated in an earlier post; If it isn't handled right (very seldom is), the results don't really tell much at all, because of all the variables that usually aren't accounted for!
They just look good in a thread, and are cool - but still offer very little real info.
Completely agree, it's just not always easy to find a tree that big to waste making cookies.
Here is a vid Brad, myself and Nik made last summer. Sorry about the video quality, it was getting dark. I think it gave us a pretty good idea of how each saw preformed. The wood was oak, each saw had full comp chain and 32" bars. So yes it can be done.
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Q_2HL4d2K8g" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Yep, and for real fun the timed cuts need to be real world too. Like something at the end of a long day for sure. Maybe throw in a steep hill, reaching around from a jutting rock, nothing but air for twelve feet. Or, spurs set deep, arching your back and straining your flipline to get that 40" bar in behind the wedges after changing sides on a spar that is 6' through 40' in the air.
It helps if your safety glasses are smeared with sweat and you have chips and barkdust caked to your skin all over and being rubbed in by your clothes.
Those are the times you really hate when a saw dies.
Mr. HE
It helps if your safety glasses are smeared with sweat and you have chips and barkdust caked to your skin all over and being rubbed in by your clothes.
Those are the times you really hate when a saw dies.
Mr. HE
Yup...good one. With a slug like that you can really tell the difference between saws.
And...I forget that not everybody has the easy access to large logs that we do. 'Scuse, please.
I do think that some of Brad's vids where he sinks those saws into hardwoods are rather impressive. Sure some were more than others, but it is always nice to see a saw with a decent bar buried to the dawgs.
Mr. HE
Mr. HE
parrisw
Tree Freak
I do think that some of Brad's vids where he sinks those saws into hardwoods are rather impressive. Sure some were more than others, but it is always nice to see a saw with a decent bar buried to the dawgs.
Mr. HE
YEP, small stuff is fine for testing out rebuild or ported saws. But lay them into some 3' wood, and you'll know what you got.
TreeClimber57
Addicted to ArboristSite
Brake horsepower was NOT intended to be used on saws
It is an automobile term as far as i know.. and dynos on cars do measure hp. Or at least that is what they are calibrated to measure / display. It is also used on locomotives I think. Although ships use shaft horsepower. If you look up horsepower there are about 2 dozen meanings or ways to measure it. Some, although technically valid terms, are not used any longer.
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Relate everything to BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel COnsumption) which is relation of btu's consumed to work done and youll find out what sucks in life. Every type of fuel consuming or object has a rating.
