What is the best inside wood burning stove

[logbutcher]

Woodstoves are like women: no 'best one'. It's all a matter of taste--all other things being equal (like heat).

We've heated with wood in northern New England for too damn long, with so many wood stoves that the brain can't remember (CRS).
From early Ashley, Frankin Fireplace, barrel stove, Lange, Fisher, Vermont Castings, Morso, Jotul, Tempwood....used all of them to heat home and workshop usually over 90% of heating. Most wood stoves are just for supplemental (the "up from" the thermostat set at 65 F ) or entertainment for the occasional romantic interlude.:msp_scared:

For the past 10 years we use 2, heating 99% of both equal parts of a well-insulated place in Downeast Maine. One is a cat cast iron, the other a non-cat cast. The stoves eat about 6-8 cords/ year of medium BTU wood harvested from our woodlots ( Paper Birch & Red/Soft Maple). Both stoves are EPA rated and around 6 years old.

The cat stove uses close to 1/4 less wood for the same heat as the non-cat. Cats have a bad rep because of the added minor maintenance of the combustor, the extra step in burning, and the life expectancy of cats, now changing with the new metal cats. It's a user thing.

Best stove is the one that you like the looks of, does the job you want, and has low maintenance. Cast or steel, cat or non-cat, new or used is a user decision.

My bias is quality: Jotul, Woodstock, Pacific Energy. Since we heat with the stoves, the extra log load is burnt before bedtime; who wants to get up at oh-dark-hundred to cold stoves, cold house, cold bodies ?:angry2:

 

[blacklocst]

Well yes, they are big. They are also very inefficient that is why they needed to be so big. Save your money, get yourself a new or used EPA high efficient wood stove. They will reduce your wood usage by a third guaranteed. That's a third less cutting, splitting, cording etc. That's gotta be worth something.

Bought a new(30% tax credit) Jotul cb 600 firelight last year to replace my Vermont Casting Defiant non cat. with a secondary combustion chamber made in 1983 when Vt. castings made quality stoves, that stove was a beast, had a stretch when the day time temps didn't reach 10 degrees and we were walking around the house (2000.sq. ft. saltbox) in short sleeves. Didn't have to empty an ash pan like I do now, all I had to do was just move the coals to the back and take a couple scopes of ashes and put it into an ash bucket, now I have to slide out the ash pan (what a mess! and worst invention in the 21st century IMO ) out and walk around with ashes flying in my face. On the plus side I love being able to see flames dancing in the box and be able to see when its time to reload. AS for saving wood I don't think Im saving that much if at all .......I miss that stove!

 

[laynes69]

We went from a non EPA woodfurnace to a EPA certiified woodfurnace. The difference was huge. The old furnace had a 6.5 cu ft firebox that had to be completely filled to get an overnight
burn. The new furnace has a 3.5 cu ft firebox that burns longer which puts more btus in the
house per load. We dont have the extreme temperature swings that we use to have, just a
good even heat during the burn. We dropped at least 2 cords from our consumption and used
zero lp. Where before we used a half tank because the fire would die out in the morning. We
tried to burn hot and clean, but even then we could easily pull half a 5 gallon bucket of
creosote from the chimney. With the new unit, usually it's a few cups every couple of months
or so. I would never purchase another unit unless it was EPA certified. I hear the stories of
those at work burning in old stoves and furnaces. They all complain about dirty chimneys,
short burns and wood consumption. I don't care if a unit burns 14 hours. If it's smoldering and producing loads of smoke it's an inefficient burn wasting fuel and causing creosote. Ever since I switched to something EPA certified, it's opened my eyes.

 

[Streblerm]

Bought a new(30% tax credit) Jotul cb 600 firelight last year to replace my Vermont Casting Defiant non cat. with a secondary combustion chamber made in 1983 when Vt. castings made quality stoves, that stove was a beast, had a stretch when the day time temps didn't reach 10 degrees and we were walking around the house (2000.sq. ft. saltbox) in short sleeves. Didn't have to empty an ash pan like I do now, all I had to do was just move the coals to the back and take a couple scopes of ashes and put it into an ash bucket, now I have to slide out the ash pan (what a mess! and worst invention in the 21st century IMO ) out and walk around with ashes flying in my face. On the plus side I love being able to see flames dancing in the box and be able to see when its time to reload. AS for saving wood I don't think Im saving that much if at all .......I miss that stove!

So if I understand correctly you prefer the old VC defiant over the Jotul? I was looking at either a Lopi Liberty or a Jotul F500 Oslo to replace my '80s Defiant monster. My choices are somewhat limited due to my stove's position on a hearth in the corner of the room. I really like side loading but I have to load from the left side. The hearth isn't terribly deep so I can't go with a deep stove unless I rework the hearth and put offsets in the stovepipe. Right now it is a straight shot up and out.

I have held off replacing the old monster for exactly the reason you mention. I would hate to be less satisfied with the new stove after spending the money. If it isn't saving you any wood that would really piss me off. I am currently burning about 7-8 cords a year keeping 2500SF of drafty old farmhouse WARM.

I have the old 1 piece fireback in mine and it is starting to crack and warp. I clean it and reseal it every year and it is slowly getting worse. I have seen parts available online for about $600 to rebuild mine. I haven't researched their actual availability, but now I may give it some more serious consideration. I really do like the Defiant and if I can't cut my wood consumption by a significant amount, I don't really see any reason to replace it. It will probably be good for another 30+ years, maybe more. I bought the stove used and the crack was already there

 

[Streblerm]

We went from a non EPA woodfurnace to a EPA certiified woodfurnace. The difference was huge. The old furnace had a 6.5 cu ft firebox that had to be completely filled to get an overnight
burn. The new furnace has a 3.5 cu ft firebox that burns longer which puts more btus in the
house per load. We dont have the extreme temperature swings that we use to have, just a
good even heat during the burn. We dropped at least 2 cords from our consumption and used
zero lp. Where before we used a half tank because the fire would die out in the morning. We
tried to burn hot and clean, but even then we could easily pull half a 5 gallon bucket of
creosote from the chimney. With the new unit, usually it's a few cups every couple of months
or so. I would never purchase another unit unless it was EPA certified. I hear the stories of
those at work burning in old stoves and furnaces. They all complain about dirty chimneys,
short burns and wood consumption. I don't care if a unit burns 14 hours. If it's smoldering and producing loads of smoke it's an inefficient burn wasting fuel and causing creosote. Ever since I switched to something EPA certified, it's opened my eyes.

With my defiant I have never gotten more than about half a sandwich bag full of creosote out of a yearly cleaning, even burning less than seasoned wood. I can consistently get good heat out of it for 6-8 hours and have enough coals to easily relight a fire for 8-12 hours depending on what I'm burning and how it stacks in the stove. I don't use a flue damper, only the intake damper.

Methinks it is time to start looking at that rebuild kit.

 

[wendell]

Streblerm, I bought an Oslo last year as my second stove and love it. I used to have a Fireview and get infinitely less ash in the house with the ash pan on the Oslo. Not sure how fast the previous poster is walking through his house but I don't get any ash flying out as I'm going out to dump it.

My other choice was a PE Alderlea T6 which I know would've also been a really good choice but got a great price on the Oslo.

And Kyle, I think Lopi is also a fine brand, I just don't have any experience with them.

 

[Oldtimer]

I don't know you're brother specific set up, so I'll speak in generalities. The reason why the old air tight needed a cast iron damper and were so big is they burned so hot & fast. another way you know they were inefficient is they needed to be vented on a large chimney 8" or more. If you don't believe me ask your brother to read the flue temp at about 18" above the stove on high fire. It will read between 600 - 800 F or more. Back drafting was hardly ever an issue since they sent so much heat up the chimney.

Now an EPA wood stove is so efficient is burns the smoke ( also a fuel), the flue temp on high fier should not be much more above 350 F. Which means more of the heat stays in your house. Also you save major coinage since you only have to vent it on a 6" chimney. I can almost guarantee if your brother were to switch to an EPA stove he will not look back. Don't believe me just ask all the users on this site who went from an old smoke dragon to a high-efficient unit.

I agree with you plate steel is good stuff. Most EPA stoves are made with it. Osburn for example uses 3/8 top plate steel which is probably thicker than your Brother's stove.

I had an "early" Cat stove, it was new- this was at least 18 years ago.. Hated it. Had room enough for exactly 2 sticks of 18" wood. When it worked, it did throw awesome heat. But it was such a pain to keep it in that sweet spot. We went cold a lot with that POS. I have an Ashley myself, non-cat and non secondary burn.. It works OK, but nothing to brag about.
My brother's big Warner has a damper in the stove pipe, and yes, it's an 8" pipe. He never uses the damper- he only has it there to cut off air-flow in case of a creosote fire. But as I said, he never has a creosote problem, and his chimney is almost always sending up just a wisp of white smoke. Very rarely does it belch out a cloud of smoke. My Ashley does however..I hope to purchase a super-sized Warner or Fisher that will take a 30-36" stick just for the ease of feeding whatever I can drag home from the landing.
I would consider a newer secondary burn stove except I have yet to find one I like the design of.
A $500 - $800 Warner or Fisher or Old Mill I like and can afford.

I'm telling you, when my brother's is going in good shape you can't stand within 4' of it. It's crazy. In this 230 year old farm I have, that's exactly what I am looking for.

 

[stumpy75]

View attachment 193325

Not sure where to find this any more, but I have been burning a medium Buck for some 20 years or more. It has what was considered, at the time, a revolutionary secondary burn chamber. Bought it just as the first catalytic stoves were hitting the market.

 

[sachsmo]

Oldtimer should like this old hunk of iron and steel.
Early to mid '70s made in Ohio, yeah when you get her cookin' stand back!
I can load her with 20" pieces North/South or East/West.

 

[Oldtimer]

Nice.
I prefer a single door though.

 

[lon]

I have the Jotul Oslo in the house and shop. Could not be more pleased with each one.

 

[blacklocst]

So if I understand correctly you prefer the old VC defiant over the Jotul? I was looking at either a Lopi Liberty or a Jotul F500 Oslo to replace my '80s Defiant monster. My choices are somewhat limited due to my stove's position on a hearth in the corner of the room. I really like side loading but I have to load from the left side. The hearth isn't terribly deep so I can't go with a deep stove unless I rework the hearth and put offsets in the stovepipe. Right now it is a straight shot up and out.

I have held off replacing the old monster for exactly the reason you mention. I would hate to be less satisfied with the new stove after spending the money. If it isn't saving you any wood that would really piss me off. I am currently burning about 7-8 cords a year keeping 2500SF of drafty old farmhouse WARM.

I have the old 1 piece fireback in mine and it is starting to crack and warp. I clean it and reseal it every year and it is slowly getting worse. I have seen parts available online for about $600 to rebuild mine. I haven't researched their actual availability, but now I may give it some more serious consideration. I really do like the Defiant and if I can't cut my wood consumption by a significant amount, I don't really see any reason to replace it. It will probably be good for another 30+ years, maybe more. I bought the stove used and the crack was already there/QUOTE]
I had the 2 piece fail in the same spot as yours thought about getting parts for it but thought better because I was worried about putting it together properly. I burn 24/7 during the heating season and go through about 5 cord a year. last year was my first year with the Jotul 600 it just seemed like it didn't fire as hot as the Defiant, that stove was ahead of its time. Maybe I need another year to judge wood consumption and so on. Anyway Your NEVER going to heat that drafty farm house with the Oslo too small. And oh yea my back door is 3 ft away from my stove when its time to unload the ashes I step out side and pray that there wont be a gust of wind. If you have an airtight Defiant it will out perform most new stoves out there.

 

[PA Plumber]

View attachment 193325

Not sure where to find this any more, but I have been burning a medium Buck for some 20 years or more. It has what was considered, at the time, a revolutionary secondary burn chamber. Bought it just as the first catalytic stoves were hitting the market.

Those pics bring back some cold memories...

When I was growing up, our family heated an old farm house with a similar looking unit. Ours didn't have the glass in the front doors and we had a damper in the flue just above the stove.

In the winter, I'd often have frost across the floor and up two walls of my bedroom.
One bitter cold winter, there was frost across the top of my blankets.

 

[logbutcher]

Like any new technology there's a learning curve to get it right. EPA regs were developed to burn cleanER and save fuel.

EPA non cats like our Jotul Oslo are Mommie burners :msp_wub: with limited control of air: not too high, not too low. Unlike the old VC Defiant (and our old Vigilant ) you cannot damp the beast way down or shut off. The air control with some cat stoves (our VC cat Encore) can be shut down to almost nil.

The VC Defiant was a powerful beast, one of the largest if not THE biggest hunk of iron out there. Enormous firebox, mass, and an ingenious bypass system to maximize reburning. Butt It is old tech. The Jotul 600 is no Defiant in mass, but is efficient and clean.

BTW: the ash pans in the EPA VC's and Jotuls are a pleasure to use. Please: don't dump against the wind.:msp_sad:

 

[stumpy75]

Those pics bring back some cold memories...

When I was growing up, our family heated an old farm house with a similar looking unit. Ours didn't have the glass in the front doors and we had a damper in the flue just above the stove.

In the winter, I'd often have frost across the floor and up two walls of my bedroom.
One bitter cold winter, there was frost across the top of my blankets.

I agree that the newer stoves are more efficient. However, the older air-tight stoves with the secondary burn were not and are not too bad! The Buck stove I have replaced an old Franklin type non-airtight stove that had the damper in the flue and a Magic-Heat unit in the stack. Now THAT one was one inefficient stove, and pulled out more heat that it produced!

I'm happy with the unit I have, and can't, right now, justify the cost of a newer non-catalytic one... It does what I need it to do, and it's long since paid for! :msp_smile:

However, the OP has an even older unit than I have(I think), and it's probably time to update it.

 

[Coldfront]

I'm on board with the Pacific Energy Spectrum, heats my whole house 2,000 sq ft. and that is in northern WI where we have a lot of below zero temps. And always have coals still burning in the morning. I went to clean the chimney this spring but there was nothing to clean, I mean the chimney pipe was as clean as a whistle even at the top.

 

[fordracer]

i myself prefer a fisher,i just finished installing this one,after repairing flu liner and extending brick hearth to accept it,also replaced all the fire brick in it and also made my baffle for it out of 2x2xquarter inch angle iron with fire brick laying in the baffle frame,sure hope it performs good.