Poley4
ArboristSite Guru
So, if someone was to ask you if a particular saw was a Pro saw or not, what features would the saw have to have for you to qualify it as a Pro saw?
What makes a Pro saw a Pro saw?
- Thread starter Poley4
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NDtreehugger
ArboristSite Guru
The operator :jawdrop:
my 1st thought would be the lack of plastic on critical engine parts,(block)
2nd would be electronics heaver duty.
3rd would be the ease of access for maintenance & repairing (should be simple to disassemble with as few parts as possible)
unlimited availability of parts
my 1st thought would be the lack of plastic on critical engine parts,(block)
2nd would be electronics heaver duty.
3rd would be the ease of access for maintenance & repairing (should be simple to disassemble with as few parts as possible)
unlimited availability of parts
Last edited:
litefoot
Addicted to ArboristSite
Features included in a Pro saw are (but not limited to):
-Magnesium crankcase that splits lengthwise for easier rebuilding
-Adjustable oiler
-Decomp valve
-Easy-access air filter and other components.
Some "non-pro" saws include some of these features. Some "pro" saws lack some of these features. I probably missed other stuff, too.
-Magnesium crankcase that splits lengthwise for easier rebuilding
-Adjustable oiler
-Decomp valve
-Easy-access air filter and other components.
Some "non-pro" saws include some of these features. Some "pro" saws lack some of these features. I probably missed other stuff, too.
ShoerFast
Tree Freak
It should have a good power ~ weight ratio.
newby79
ArboristSite Member
shoud be a Stihl
:spam:
:spam:
echoman8
ArboristSite Member
Common things on pro saws
Hi,
I have found that, what I consider to be a pro saw (regardless of the model number or label) have the following.
Rod and crankshaft are one piece and balanced after assembly. This reduces vibration to a minimum and will allow you to run the saw much longer without tiring.
The main bearings should be ball bearings. Needle or roller bearings will allow for horizontal and vertical play of the crankshaft.
The cylinder should be chromed (in such a way that it is impregnated into the aluminum rather than plated).
The piston should be chromed in the same way.
The piston should have 2 rings.
The oiler should be either gear drive or hydraulic pump. Either designed in such a way that oil is pumped any time the chain is moving. The oiler should create 300psi as opposed to 30 psi on most non pro saws.
Any plastic should be of high quality and flexibility. Echo has great plastic on its equipment.
The overall design should be designed so that service of the bar/chain, carburetor, fuel lines, and other commonly repaired items are convenient for a mechanic or owner to service.
In my opinion, these are the most critical components of a pro saw. I am sure there are other points of importance, but if a saw has all of the above, I will buy. I use all echo because of parts interchangability (I have 16 running units). All echos I know of have the above. When in the biz, I sold a few thousand of them with great success. There is no doubt that in the larger saws that Stihl and husky are better.
Good luck,
echoman
Hi,
I have found that, what I consider to be a pro saw (regardless of the model number or label) have the following.
Rod and crankshaft are one piece and balanced after assembly. This reduces vibration to a minimum and will allow you to run the saw much longer without tiring.
The main bearings should be ball bearings. Needle or roller bearings will allow for horizontal and vertical play of the crankshaft.
The cylinder should be chromed (in such a way that it is impregnated into the aluminum rather than plated).
The piston should be chromed in the same way.
The piston should have 2 rings.
The oiler should be either gear drive or hydraulic pump. Either designed in such a way that oil is pumped any time the chain is moving. The oiler should create 300psi as opposed to 30 psi on most non pro saws.
Any plastic should be of high quality and flexibility. Echo has great plastic on its equipment.
The overall design should be designed so that service of the bar/chain, carburetor, fuel lines, and other commonly repaired items are convenient for a mechanic or owner to service.
In my opinion, these are the most critical components of a pro saw. I am sure there are other points of importance, but if a saw has all of the above, I will buy. I use all echo because of parts interchangability (I have 16 running units). All echos I know of have the above. When in the biz, I sold a few thousand of them with great success. There is no doubt that in the larger saws that Stihl and husky are better.
Good luck,
echoman
Poley4
ArboristSite Guru
One piece crank and a chrome plated piston? Interesting.
cuttinscott
Addicted to ArboristSite
woodyman
Addicted to ArboristSite
So a three peice crank and one ring is non pro?
OilHead
ArboristSite Guru
Major differances. Not as much plastic, typically come with a roller nose bar & a real chain catcher , compression release, bottom end is stronger, transfers are a better design & the clutch will be higher quality.
dougfirfirewood
ArboristSite Lurker
lots of cubes 
kurtty
ArboristSite Operative
the 371xp has a single ring piston, as do some 372xp's
1 ring = less friction on the piston/clylinder but needs to be replaced more often. so its kind of a trade off.
woodyman
Addicted to ArboristSite
My 1984 husky 266SE with one ring that I sold a few months ago still had 180 compression:jawdrop:
echoman8
ArboristSite Member
On the "one piece crank". I wrote "one piece crank and rod". Actually it is a combination of the left half of the crank, the right half of the crank, and the rod. One half of the crank is frozen, the other half heated, the two halves are pressed together capturing the rod. Then the "one piece crank and rod" are balanced.
On the "chrome plated piston". I posted "the piston should be chromed in the same way" which to refered to the above line about chrome impregnation (as opposed to plating).
I hope this better explains.
echoman
echoman8
ArboristSite Member
excuse me
I have found that, what I consider to be a pro saw (regardless of the model number or label) have the following.
The above is how I prefaced my opinion.
That is my opinion.
But it is only an opinion.
Everyone has their opinion of a pro saw, but those with a lot of experience will agree with most, if not all of the components that I described.
echoman
I have found that, what I consider to be a pro saw (regardless of the model number or label) have the following.
The above is how I prefaced my opinion.
That is my opinion.
But it is only an opinion.
Everyone has their opinion of a pro saw, but those with a lot of experience will agree with most, if not all of the components that I described.
echoman
nilzlofgren
Addicted to ArboristSite
I thought nikasil was better than chrome.
newby79
ArboristSite Member
I thought that as well. I have never heard of chrome impregnating the piston. Now I have heard of chrome rings which do wear real well but take a while to break in.
woodyman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I thought a true pro saw would have a ceramic piston.
What makes a pro-saw a pro-saw? POWER, POWER and POWER combined with LONGEVITY. An echo is NOT a pro-saw. Any half-baked outfit can produce a semi-long life saw with a pitifully sluggish motor and call it a pro-saw! Echo have the cheek to try it on, but clued up types know the echo 'pro label' is all wank-factor rather than truth.. umpkin2:
umpkin2:mcinfantry
ArboristSite Member
my dad told me a pro was when you pay money UPFRONT even though it has been used alot it still does the same job an non pro model does with A LOT less fuss and hassle.....oke:
oke:
