What oils do you use?

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NYH1

Tacticle Chainsaw Operator.
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What two stroke oil do you use? I have a few two strokes (chain saws and weed eater) that use 50:1 mix ratio. I want to go with one brand of oil. I want to use the best oil I can. I was think about going with a synthetic oil of some kind.

Also what bar oil do you use? Thanks!
 
Stihl or Husky

Just started using Synthetic Stihl and Husky 2 cycle and it's made a world of difference in power and smoothness of my saws. I noticed it right away. For bar oil, I use the Stihl winter weight. I use winter year round. It seems to lube the chain better in cold and hot conditions.
 
Any high quality oil is a good idea. We handle Dolmar, RedMax and Opti-2 oils. Stihl oil is also a good choice.

Synthetics are a good idea, just remember to shake them often. I'm not convinced that they are worth the extra cost.

Bar oils all seem to be the same according to a previous thread. I'd suggest avoiding the Canola oil though. Also read a post that Honey is not good for bars also.
 
Just changed from the Stihl HP oil to their new Stihl Ultra synthetic.
Also I have always used the Stihl bar oil.
 
Just Mow said:
Just changed from the Stihl HP oil to their new Stihl Ultra synthetic.
Also I have always used the Stihl bar oil.


i agree if you are gonna use good oil mix....use good bar oil to, there is a diffrence in cheap bar oil and the good stuff.:popcorn:
 
Fuel: Mobil Racing MX2T 40:1, occasionally Echo Semi-Synthetic 40:1. I keep an unopened, sealed spare bottle of the Echo stuff in the saw box, in case I run out of the mix I brought when I'm out cutting. That way I don't have to carry my measuring cup and have un-sealed bottle of MX2T leak all over my stuff.

Bar: Stihl orange bottle, except in the dead of winter when I really ought to run winter oil but rarely do.
 
Why do some you mix you fuel so rich? I just ask because I run my saws for a living and never once have had an issue running 50:1 in over 13 years. Everything I run is modded too.
Just wondering.
BTW, I used to run Stihl, but have found a Husky dealer who had some 5 gallon pales for $65 - I bought two.
 
Rich

Tree Sling'r said:
Why do some you mix you fuel so rich? I just ask because I run my saws for a living and never once have had an issue running 50:1 in over 13 years. Everything I run is modded too.
Just wondering.
BTW, I used to run Stihl, but have found a Husky dealer who had some 5 gallon pales for $65 - I bought two.

I've just always run them rich since all my folks did it. That was back when Stihl's were recommending 40:1. We've run them between 32 and 40:1 from the beginning and never had one burn up. I'm kind of stuck in that mode now. I've got some newer saws, but still use my older saws, like 30+ yr old saws, all the time. I figger if I keep it at an even 40:1, it's a little bit rich for the newer saws, and about right for the older ones so I don't have to lug around 2 different gas cans. Running rich is definitely better than running lean for saw life etc... Just wondering how old your oldest saw is and how long you've had your oldest saw guy??? It's all long term life I believe. I prefer to run rich, change spark plugs more frequently, and not have to rebuild. For a minimum of 3 months now I've been running my saws no less than 2 hours a day with 8+ hours/day on the weekends. These are 30yr old saws working all the time. I hope this didn't come off wrong guy. I just have a hard time adjusting to the whole leaner saw mixtures now...
 
ciscoguy01 said:
I've just always run them rich since all my folks did it. That was back when Stihl's were recommending 40:1. We've run them between 32 and 40:1 from the beginning and never had one burn up. I'm kind of stuck in that mode now. I've got some newer saws, but still use my older saws, like 30+ yr old saws, all the time. I figger if I keep it at an even 40:1, it's a little bit rich for the newer saws, and about right for the older ones so I don't have to lug around 2 different gas cans. Running rich is definitely better than running lean for saw life etc... Just wondering how old your oldest saw is and how long you've had your oldest saw guy??? It's all long term life I believe. I prefer to run rich, change spark plugs more frequently, and not have to rebuild. For a minimum of 3 months now I've been running my saws no less than 2 hours a day with 8+ hours/day on the weekends. These are 30yr old saws working all the time. I hope this didn't come off wrong guy. I just have a hard time adjusting to the whole leaner saw mixtures now...

My oldest saw is about 11 months old...guy. I have bought three this year. Dinosaur saws won't pay my bills in my line of work. I use em' then I sell them. The faster my equipment is the more money I make. I get paid by the 1000bf. If I was just a weekend warrior I would probably still be using the first 066 I bought in 1993.
 
Ugh

Tree Sling'r said:
My oldest saw is about 11 months old...guy. I have bought three this year. Dinosaur saws won't pay my bills in my line of work. I use em' then I sell them. The faster my equipment is the more money I make. I get paid by the 1000bf. If I was just a weekend warrior I would probably still be using the first 066 I bought in 1993.

I wish I could make a living cutting wood dude. Unfortunately I don't really have the means in this area and there are very few that do and can do it. I'm with you guy. Were I making my living with a saw, I'd definitely use them for all they were worth while I had them and then be done with it. Since I'm poor and just need them to make a little extra money and heat the ole' house, I just try to baby all of them and pick up a deal when I get the chance.
 
ciscoguy01 said:
I wish I could make a living cutting wood dude. Unfortunately I don't really have the means in this area and there are very few that do and can do it. I'm with you guy. Were I making my living with a saw, I'd definitely use them for all they were worth while I had them and then be done with it. Since I'm poor and just need them to make a little extra money and heat the ole' house, I just try to baby all of them and pick up a deal when I get the chance.

I hear ya - many folks in your area don't have the means. The Pac. NW is an awesome place to live and work. The logging industry is night and day on each side as well. Diff. methods mostly.
Though you may like it, don't quit your day job - its a tough row to hoe. Don't get me wrong though - I don't ride my equipment hard and put it away wet.
I baby my stuff as well. Saws are just a part of the tools I need. In my shop alone I have over $3500 in chain grinding equip. tons of bars, by chain by the 100' roll, mix by the pale, bar oil by the 55 gallon drum, wedges, tape fillers, tapes, tips, gloves...etc, by the box.
Though I sell many of my saws I could probably build four or five with all the parts I have.
Not boasting - just giving a little detail.

Take Care - Tree Sling'r.
 
I also run a rich oil mix, All my present saws are well used and I am convinced it is benificial to engine life and power when your carb is adjusted properly.I run 25 to 1 and try to choose any quality oil. I just try to stay away from cheap no name stuff. If I were running a new saw I would stick to the manufactors recomendation to fulfil warranty obligations then go to 32 to 1 or 25 to 1 depending on the amount of engine wear I assume most of my saws have. I havent had any carbon problems with these mixtures.
Bar oil I usually buy on sale or Wal-mart oil. I like the walmart in winter as it is thin. Sometimes I buy motor oil cheap at estate auctions and use it for bar oil. I keep a sharp chain and rarely notice any significant disadvantage to cheap bar oil.I do mostly firewood and light tree trimming with my personal saws. It may be worth the extra $ in the high $ businesses for tough tree removals,and cutting big logs in logging operations.I ' d go broke selling firewood if I payed the price for all the best stuff.
 
Little advantage and possible disadvantage

When mixing oil the more you add the lower your octane. I have proven to myself that more octane than needed has little to no advantage as well as many premium gasolines are more prone to oil seperation. Synthetics I have run as low as 100 to one depending on application with numerous advantages. Most people cannot hear detonation in a 2-stroke even AFTER I show them by example.
NUMBER ONE BIG NO NO.....do not EVER mix your fuel in a chain oil jug no matter HOW MUCH you clean and rinse as the slinger agent clogs everything. Also around here farmers sometimes use milk jugs and that also clogs rings. mufflers, and ports because the gas eats the plastic.
Got tons of stories of various customer experience as well
One guy brought me a Husky40 that had bad crank bearings they screeched when it ran. He had been mixing 1 ounce amsoil to a gallon thinking it was 100 to 1 I explaned that a gallon was 128 ounces and the rest of the saw showed no wear for three hard years of use....even the seals look OK but I put in new seals to be safe.
 
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