What to ask for with a 346xp?

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There are some pretty funny items in this thread. Any dealer that says a saw runs cooler with a cat muffler is an absolute moron. I don't know which would be worse, saying something like that knowing it's a lie, or being stupid enough to think that's the way it works.

That being said, it has been a while since I've seen any non-cat 346's. If you are lucky enough to find one, it will have an early 2008 build date, because I've never seen a non-cat more recent than that. The last batch I just got in have "346 E" on the box. Anyone looking to get a 346 ought to just plan on buying the extra muffler rather than wasting a lot of time searching for a non-cat saw.

Getting rid of the cat will make it the sweetest 50CC saw ever made. It will have all the necessary power for your firewood needs. Truthfully, the 350 or 450 would also get the job done much better than most people here will admit to, and I say that knowing that I will be branded a heretic. LOL. But the 346 is just a pleasure to use.

The term "firewood saw" gets tossed around here a lot, and there seem to be a lot of different definitions. It's not a question of which of them are right or wrong, but the term obviously means different things to different people. There is generally a concern with a lot of guys about being able to handle big wood, but from what I see in this area, most firewood cutting is in logs from 18" on down, the majority of which is in the 8" to 15" range. The 346 can handle that cutting easily. Yes, a 372 will cut that stuff quicker, but another 3 lbs, and another $300 might not be the way you want to go. I always suggest a saw sized for the wood you will be cutting most often, so unless you are going to frequently be into wood 18", 20" and up, you really don't need a bigger saw.

Now big saws are fun; addictive even, and your liable to wind up with one or more of them if you hang around here much longer, but the bottom line is the 346 should be all you need. :cheers:
 
Wow, guys...thanks so much for the advice you rock! :rockn: And beer for everyone! :cheers:

I've decided to go with the 346xp for sure. I'll call or stop by the dealer tomorrow and find out what extras I can get tossed in. I'm hoping for one of those hard plastic carry cases and figure I'll buy another chain as a spare/backup. :clap:

I Still don't understand the reasons to go with 3/8 or .325 chain over the other. Is it just personal preference or does one do something that the other doesn't? Does the type of chain matter? I know there are 'full chisel' ones and 'ripping' ones. Other than the names being different and one sounding much more 'painful', I have no idea what the wisest choice is.

1.non E-TECH.(this is the easy part.and dealers have no trouble knowing what your talking about)
2.non cat.(this ones hard to find,and according to dealers,holy cow,don't even get me started on what some of them tried to pull lmao)
anyway,to find one without a cat in the muffler:
easy way is, it will have a black gas cap,not a green one.green= cat inside)

So, if possible, I want to get one with a black gas cap. But, should I be unable to do so, where do you suggest getting the 'non-cat' muffler replacement? Are they expensive?

Additionally, what is E-TECH and why wouldn't I want it on my saw? Also, how do I differentiate between an E and non-E version?
 
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It probably comes down to what is available and what you like. I chose to run a 16" bar and 3/8 full chisel on my 346XP NE right out of the gate. The saw has no problem running it and it is readily available in my town and is fairly cheap. There isn't a good selection of .325 around here, it's all safety chain or bumper chisel and I think .325 is harder to sharpen and doesn't hold an edge as long as 3/8. I have a dozen tanks of fuel through mine, just did a muffler mod and it plain screams through hardwood. Tached at 13,900 and the plug looks perfect. .325 may be a tad faster but I still run 3/8's. Buy the 346XP NE, you won't regret it.

Scott
 
Wow, guys...thanks so much for the advice you rock! :rockn: And beer for everyone! :cheers:

I've decided to go with the 346xp for sure. I'll call or stop by the dealer tomorrow and find out what extras I can get tossed in. I'm hoping for one of those hard plastic carry cases and figure I'll buy another chain as a spare/backup. :clap:

I Still don't understand the reasons to go with 3/8 or .325 chain over the other. Is it just personal preference or does one do something that the other doesn't? Does the type of chain matter? I know there are 'full chisel' ones and 'ripping' ones. Other than the names being different and one sounding much more 'painful', I have no idea what the wisest choice is.



So, if possible, I want to get one with a black gas cap. But, should I be unable to do so, where do you suggest getting the 'non-cat' muffler replacement? Are they expensive?

Additionally, what is E-TECH and why wouldn't I want it on my saw? Also, how do I differentiate between an E and non-E version?

The NE346 etech is a reduced emission chainsaw. I think the only difference is the cat muffler. You can differentiate the ETECH version from non by looking at the gas cap and the sticker on the recoil cover. The ETECH version has a bright green gas cap and in the lower right corner of the sticker is a small etech label. If you pop over to the husky USA web site you can compare the two saws and if you look carefully you can see the differences. Last time I looked, the site sponsor Baileys sells a non-cat muffler for this saw. Most of the 346xp saws I have seen run .325 chain. I would stick with whatever chain comes with the saw.

Think long and hard about getting a 346xp as your only chainsaw. It was originally designed as (and still is in my opinion) a high speed limbing saw. It can buck firewood but it is not ideal for this. At 6’2” you are going to look like grape ape using this thing. If I was to have only one saw for firewood, I would own a husky 372xp. If you are on a budget, consider the Makita 6401. You can buy the Makita new for about $50 more than the 346xp. You can also try the Makita before you buy. Home Despot uses them as rental saws. Rent the thing for a half day to see if you like the weight and power. Good Luck.
 
I run a 20" bar on my 346xp. I have yet to stall it out! I normally use this saw for bucking, but once it's in my hands I just can"t put it down!!:)
I have had the bar buried and it just seems to want more. I"m considering a muffler mod (just for kicks). I am currently asking questions on this topic on AS now! I can"t imagine what a 16" bar would be like on this saw! UNSTOPPABLE? Anyway, keep it fun and keep it SAFE!

heatsink :chainsaw:
 
I can"t imagine what a 16" bar

Mine's a 16" Windsor Mini-Pro speed tip, 59 links ala Homelite and it screams through the wood at 13,900 rpm! Probably why I get away with 3/8 chain so easy, small bar, less links, lots of revs.

Scott
 
Mine's a 16" Windsor Mini-Pro speed tip, 59 links ala Homelite and it screams through the wood at 13,900 rpm! Probably why I get away with 3/8 chain so easy, small bar, less links, lots of revs.

Scott

Cool!! I didn't know you could increase chain width. I tried it once on a Pouland farmhand and had bad results. (not enough power)
 
It probably comes down to what is available and what you like. I chose to run a 16" bar and 3/8 full chisel on my 346XP NE right out of the gate. The saw has no problem running it and it is readily available in my town and is fairly cheap. There isn't a good selection of .325 around here, it's all safety chain or bumper chisel and I think .325 is harder to sharpen and doesn't hold an edge as long as 3/8. I have a dozen tanks of fuel through mine, just did a muffler mod and it plain screams through hardwood. Tached at 13,900 and the plug looks perfect. .325 may be a tad faster but I still run 3/8's. Buy the 346XP NE, you won't regret it.

Scott

Woodshed, that is a cool carving of a chain saw. I'm not sure how to add
all those things like saw brands , and qoutes that I see most posts have.
I could use help there.
 
If I was to have only one saw for firewood, I would own a husky 372xp.

I did consider a 372 because someone on craigslist has/had one for sale locally. But, after reading up on them, folks on here don't seem to recommend it for a first saw...true, false?
 
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I considered a 372 because someone on craigslist has/had one for sale locally. But, after reading up on them, folks on here don't seem to recommend it for a first saw...

If you're inexperienced with running saws then yes, that is a pretty big saw to start out on. Great, great saw though. If your dealer sells both Stihl and Husky I would definately ask for an RSC Stihl chain for the 346.
 
I did consider a 372 because someone on craigslist has/had one for sale locally. But, after reading up on them, folks on here don't seem to recommend it for a first saw...true, false?

There is nothing wrong with a 372xp as a first chainsaw. Do not assume that just because the saw is small that it will not hurt you. Some of the worse kickbacks I have had happen occur with small saws while limbing. The saw I hate to run the most is the cute and cuddly ms200T and yes all of my limbing saws (346xp, NE346xp, 2 husky350, dolmar 5100 and the ms200T) run low-kickback chain.
Husky 372xp with an 18” to 24” bar is a great firewood saw and with your size you should have no trouble handling this saw. However, if you feel that you will be more comfortable with a smaller saw as a first chainsaw, go with your gut instinct and get the NE346xp. You can always ad another saw (or two or three) later on.
No matter what saw you end up with, get some safety equipment. At a minimum get a decent pair of chaps and a good helmet with face screen and hearing protection. Do some research on kickback and chainsaw operation and take your time when using the saw. The husky saws owner manuals are actually fairly well written as is the Makita 6401 manual and I think they are available on line should you wish to read up before purchase. The Stihl web site, under information, videos, has a very good vid on chainsaw safety, operation and maintenance. Most of the accidents I have seen involve people trying to rush to get things done. You always need to think and focus on where that bar tip is at when running a chainsaw. Also you should learn to sharpen your own chains. It is not hard to learn and heck, if I can do it, you know you can. Good luck with your choice.
 
Thanks for the additional tips. Safety has always been important to me...even when borrowing my buddy's Craftsman last year. Bought all my PPE then actually. Funny thing is that it happened to be Husky PPE gear I bought. LOL

I think a 70cc saw is more than what I need right now. Most of the wood I'll be cutting is pine so I sort of doubt a 372 would be needed. Regardless though, the local saw was sold yesterday so its a non-issue for me now anyways.

Bucking small stuff with that craftsman last year (4-5") is all the saw experience I have so far. I'll be taking it slow for sure.
 
I have both the 346ne and the 350. They both have an 18" bar on them. The 346 is faster and more powerful, but if you are just cutting for your own use the 350 work very well. The 346 is built better and should last longer. Actual weight difference is very little. My 350 is plenty adequate for 16-18" wood, but the 346 is more fun.
 
I have both the 346ne and the 350. They both have an 18" bar on them. The 346 is faster and more powerful, but if you are just cutting for your own use the 350 work very well. The 346 is built better and should last longer. Actual weight difference is very little. My 350 is plenty adequate for 16-18" wood, but the 346 is more fun.

Which has the least vibration or is there no difference ?
 
The 346xp is a fantastic saw for what it is designed for. I think it would be a very good saw for getting you started and depending on what you cut you could always add a 372xp uhh, err I mean a bigger saw later on if you need one. Everybody needs at least two saws. :D

If I were you I'd buy the 346 and not look back.
 
The 346xp is a fantastic saw for what it is designed for. I think it would be a very good saw for getting you started and depending on what you cut you could always add a 372xp uhh, err I mean a bigger saw later on if you need one. Everybody needs at least two saws. :D

If I were you I'd buy the 346 and not look back.

:agree2:
 
:greenchainsaw::chainsawguy:

Just got back from the dealership and I now own a 346xp! Thanks for all the encouragement guys! They threw in an extra chain for me and traded the one on the saw for a non-safety version. :clap:

I called earlier today and they said it was the non-cat version of the saw. There is no green cap of any kind on it so I'm hoping that I do indeed have that version. However, the manual cover says '346XP EPA'. I asked if they give out the same manual for both versions but she hasn't seen any other version of the manual. Because I wanted the chain switched out I won't be able to pick it up until tomorrow. I'll look it over more closely then & find out for sure.

I also bought a pair of the husky gloves. Nice gloves but does anyone know why they make the left handed one with more padding than the right? Do they figure you need more protection on your left hand or something? Only other thing I can think of is maybe the right hand needs to be thinner since it controls the throttle. :confused:
 
I also bought a pair of the husky gloves. Nice gloves but does anyone know why they make the left handed one with more padding than the right? Do they figure you need more protection on your left hand or something? Only other thing I can think of is maybe the right hand needs to be thinner since it controls the throttle. :confused:

See image:

ChainsawInjuries.jpg


EDIT: Is the extra padding on the top or palm of left hand?
 
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