What to ask for with a 346xp?

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InTheFlow

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I went to my Husky dealer yesterday to find out if I'd hopefully like the 450. (Decent price, good reviews, good all around saw, etc.) Unfortunately, I held a 346xp too and even though its $100 cheaper, now I can't buy the 450. :bang:

Are the 350s shaped the same as the 450s? Even though the weight is similar to the 346xp, I found the 450 to feel more bulky and heavy . I really dislike the tooless chain tensioner on it too. If the 350 is lighter and feels more balanced, like the 346xp, I'd rather buy that because its so much cheaper. (local dealer doesn't have a 350)

What are the different sized bars for? Is it based on how tall you are? I'm about 6'2" so would a 16 " bar be ok for me or should I get a longer one? I'd love to hear from some fellow tall people. :popcorn: BTW, why do some people seem to love 16" bars so much? Heck, the way SawTroll talks on the forum, you'd think he'd try cutting a redwood with a 16 incher! :ices_rofl:

Whether I go with a 350 or 346xp, what should I ask for from the dealer? Keeping in mind that this will be my only saw for firewood, what pitch & gauge chain would be the best for either of these saws?

Anything else I should try negotiating if/when purchasing the 346xp?
 
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Comparing a 350 to a 346XP is like comparing a Toyota to a Ferrari. They might weigh close to the same, but the performance is much different. Fortunately, the price difference between the saws is considerably smaller than in the above example.

If you want to save some money, the Husky 353 is closer in performance, but still down on the 346XP.

A saw that size works best with a 16" bar. The proper bar length is determined by a number of things, including saw balance, saw power, and bar oiler output. In a pinch an 18" bar would be OK, but for larger wood you might be better off getting a different saw (such as a 359, 357XP, or even better, a Stihl MS361)
 
you should be able to get a 346xp for around $489 give or take. Maybe the dealer will set you up with some oil or an extra chain if you ask. You should either run a "16 or "18 bar on this saw. Try .325 pitch chain on the "16 bar and the saw sould run good. I like Stihl 25RSC66 chain.

The bar really does not have anything to do with one's height. Bar size is dictated by the saw's power and the wood you are cutting.

Cheers and good luck.
 
I went to my Husky dealer yesterday to find out if I'd hopefully like the 450. (Decent price, good reviews, good all around saw, etc.) Unfortunately, I held a 346xp too and even though its $100 cheaper, now I can't buy the 450. For some reason, . :bang:

Are the 350s shaped the same as the 450s? Even though the weight is similar to the 346xp, I found the 450 to feel more bulky and heavy . I really dislike the tooless chain tensioner on it too. If the 350 is lighter and feels more balanced, like the 346xp, I'd rather buy that because its so much cheaper. (local dealer doesn't have a 350)

What are the different sized bars for? Is it based on how tall you are? I'm about 6'2" so would a 16 " bar be ok for me or should I get a longer one? I'd love to hear from some fellow tall people. :popcorn: BTW, why do some people seem to love 16" bars so much? Heck, the way SawTroll talks on the forum, you'd think he'd try cutting a redwood with a 16 incher! :ices_rofl:

Whether I go with a 350 or 346xp, what should I ask for from the dealer? Keeping in mind that this will be my only saw for firewood, what pitch & gauge chain would be the best for either of these saws?

Anything else I should try negotiating if/when purchasing the 346xp?

The 350 is shaped like the 346xp, but has a plastic case vs. a mag one, a lot less power, and a few other details that are not the same.....
 
If you are only going to have one saw....(ya right)...get the 346 man, get the 346.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys...I'm leaning towards the 346xp.

I originally had my heart set on a Dolmar 5100S but its the same price as the 346xp, none of the dealers around me have one for me to check out, it appears that most people who own both saws prefer the 346xp, & I like the Husky dealership a lot more than the Dolmar one. When I consider all that, I'm reluctant to special order a Dolmar 5100S.

Thank you for the clarification on the bar & chain size. What is the largest wood I can/should cut with a 16" bar on the 346xp?

Any tips to minimize bending over all the time?
 
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i am 6'4" and i use a 20" or 24" for bucking. for limbing it does not matter as much.
one thing to remember about bar length is that it is not so much the length of the bar that impacts a saw's performance as it is the size of the wood that you will be putting it in. there will not be much difference in the way a saw pulls a 20" bar as opposed to a 16" bar if they are both used in 10" wood. the parasitic loses caused by the additional length is not that large. you do have to consider whether or not a saw's oiler can supply the needed oil for the longer bar.
i think a 346ne with a MM would pull a 20" bar ok. if you are cutting 20" wood often you need to have a larger saw any how. if you are felling, limnbing and bucking 10-14" wood i would put a 20" on it and enjoy the extra reach it provides.
 
I'll second (third, whatever..) the 16" bar recommendation. It's what I use on my 346 along with Oregon 20LP (.325) chain and I think it's a great combination. It won't complain if you bury the bar, slices through anything smaller like nothing, and it's just so damn handy and fun with that stubby little bar.

Most of what I cut is storm damage or tops from logging and the 346 is what I walk up with to start carving my way into the situation and get the little stuff out of the way so I can see where the big wood wants to go. It's a lot of climbing around between downed branches and cutting at various heights and angles and I think the nimble little 346/16 is great for this. I guess my typical limbing is different than some, since it doesn't involve much bending over.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys...I'm leaning towards the 346xp.

I originally had my heart set on a Dolmar 5100S but its the same price as the 346xp, none of the dealers around me have one for me to check out, it appears that most people who own both saws prefer the 346xp, & I like the Husky dealership a lot more than the Dolmar one. When I consider all that, I'm reluctant to special order a Dolmar 5100S.

Thank you for the clarification on the bar & chain size. What is the largest wood I can/should cut with a 16" bar on the 346xp?

Any tips to minimize bending over all the time?

In theory, you can fell about a 40" (or a tad larger) tree with a 16" bar, but I sure wouldn't recommend it, unless you are very experiensed. :givebeer:

For normal bucking, the reasonable limit is about 30", as you don't have the option of a deep and wide notch, for bore-cutting the core of the log out, before cutting around it.
 
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I asked the same questions not too long ago and was told the same thing,buy a 346xp.It was great advice.
I bought one a few weeks ago and don't regret it at all.This saw is smooth and pretty powerful for a 50cc saw.And from what these guys on AS say,it will get better as it breaks in.
Just try not to get an E-tech if possible.
Good luck.:chainsaw:
 
The only Husky items I own are the roller file guides. Hit your dealer up for the full sharpening kit thrown in. Really easy to use, heck even a left handed Norwegian Cheesehead can do it.

Don't forget the farmer's #1 rule as well, if it don't come with a free hat, it don't come home!

Other freebies to try and scrounge are 2 cycle and bar oil, spare chain, etc.

Husky file guide link
 
I went to my Husky dealer yesterday to find out if I'd hopefully like the 450. (Decent price, good reviews, good all around saw, etc.) Unfortunately, I held a 346xp too and even though its $100 cheaper, now I can't buy the 450. :bang:

Are the 350s shaped the same as the 450s? Even though the weight is similar to the 346xp, I found the 450 to feel more bulky and heavy . I really dislike the tooless chain tensioner on it too. If the 350 is lighter and feels more balanced, like the 346xp, I'd rather buy that because its so much cheaper. (local dealer doesn't have a 350)

What are the different sized bars for? Is it based on how tall you are? I'm about 6'2" so would a 16 " bar be ok for me or should I get a longer one? I'd love to hear from some fellow tall people. :popcorn: BTW, why do some people seem to love 16" bars so much? Heck, the way SawTroll talks on the forum, you'd think he'd try cutting a redwood with a 16 incher! :ices_rofl:

Whether I go with a 350 or 346xp, what should I ask for from the dealer? Keeping in mind that this will be my only saw for firewood, what pitch & gauge chain would be the best for either of these saws?

Anything else I should try negotiating if/when purchasing the 346xp?
Everything in life is a compromise,I say go for the 346, put an 18" 3/8 bar on it and leave this site now. These dudes will have you with a 372 before the years out.
 
the 460 is actually the one that is comparable in hp.but not weight nor quality.
but the price is so close,its kinda silly.
anyway,you know you want the xp.;) so on to your question.

what to ask for when buying a 346xp:
1.non E-TECH.(this is the easy part.and dealers have no trouble knowing what your talking about)
2.non cat.(this ones hard to find,and according to dealers,holy cow,don't even get me started on what some of them tried to pull lmao)
anyway,to find one without a cat in the muffler:
easy way is, it will have a black gas cap,not a green one.green= cat inside)
iv also read on here,that the muffler is also stamped with CAT on it around or included in the serial numbers of the muffler.(i didn't bother to look at green capped 346xp's this closely in my quest)
the biggest lie one dealer tried to pull was "oh they all come with cats now,they run much cooler and will last longer.a much better built saw."
although i can't argue the fact,that perhaps no more non cats are being made for the US market,they for sure will run much hotter.you can't plug up a muffler and say it will run cooler nor loose hp lol come on.
3.tell 'em they can keep that stock wimpy bar,and you will pay the difference for the standard bar with replaceable tip.
4.don't settle for less.Let 'em know we only want the best when paying the extra $ for our pro saws.
5.bring 'er home and let 'er rip.:chainsaw:

if you need to have your 346xp ordered,you can forget about asking for a non cat version.all they can avoid is the E-TECH for ya,which has the cat yes,but not only does the E-TECH come with cats.
It appears to be out of the control of the dealers as to which standard 346xp comes through the door.(grn cap/blk cap)
either be prepared to drive around,or get ready to order a non cat muffler on the web and have it shipped.
least if you want to have a cool running 346xp that wont burn up years before its normal due date and of course have less power meanwhile.
it's not easy finding a 346xp ready to go for pro use out the door in these parts,but I did it.good luck!

oh p.s.
yeah I'd get the 16" myself as well.only cus i like to have my saw's work as easy as possible and grab a bigger saw when it's needed.
i got the 18" due to needing the extra reach when up a tree for the occasional cuts.
she will have no problem running a 20" though if you prefer.she really does have some nuts!
I'd just keep her nimble and light with a 16" and nice balance.but hey,16-20 anywhere is ok,no wrong choice with this saw.
 
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What is the difference in the 346NE and the standard 346?????

This part you don't have to worry about.
least doubtfully.(would need to find the old version sitting on a dealers shelf for past couple years as new old stock)
the NE just stands for New Edition.
all 346xp's made now are all newer and larger 50cc saws.
If she's 50cc,then she's the NE.:)
 
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This part you don't have to worry about.
least doubtfully.(would need to find the old version sitting on a dealers shelf for past couple years as new old stock)

That is actually possible at my dealer lol. Thanks very helpful.
 
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