What would I need to create this type of cut?

[Bassmantweed]

I am a volunteer for my local mountain biking association. I’m very comfortable with a saw for “traditional” felling and bucking. I use the quotes because I’m not sure there is a traditional as every scenario is different. Anyway part of clearing the trees is making what is known as trail features or obstacles. In particular Turning trees into skinnies.


I’m guessing some sort of portable mill? I’m looking for something that I can pack in if it exists. What is a good brand? I don’t foresee needing to cut anything wider than 18”. Actually the flat surface doesn’t need to be much wider that 8-12” otherwise it’s no fun/challenge.

Also assume I need a ripping chain for this type of application.

 

[motorhead99999]

Unless u want to pack a aluminum ladder and a Alaskan mill free handing it is the way to go. If you hold the saw at a 45 or better or gradually plunge the saw in as you cut you can do it with anything if you have the time. Plenty of videos on youtube on free hand milling.

 

[motorhead99999]

Ripping chain isn’t 100 percent necessary if you hold a good angle off the log.

 

[Husky Man]

If you aren’t doing wider than 18”, a Granberg “Small Log Mill”, with a 24” bar on a 60-70cc saw would probably be the minimum you would want to use

The guide rails would definitely improve your results, but the mills can be used without them for follow up cuts. If the trees that you are cutting are very straight to begin with, you may be able to use a drawknife to get an acceptable (for your purposes) surface to use a small log mill. You’re not going to get lumber quality results, but that isn’t your goal, and would be exponentially more portable than any of the guide rail systems for trail use
I won’t promise you will get the results you want, but with some practice, it may be the most practical way to get the results you want

Doug

 

[Husky Man]

I forgot to mention, for what you are doing, just use a full skip chain, you don’t need milling chain for your use.

For the width that you are working with, semi skip, or full comp chain would probably work as well, but full skip will ease the load on a smaller powerhead, and won’t be terribly slower. Plus full skip allows for better chip removal

Doug

 

[Bassmantweed]

Thanks guys.
thought about packing in 2x4. Temporarily nailing it to tree and just using the saw body as a guide along the 2x4. But long term that would wreck my saw.

 

[Husky Man]

Thanks guys.
thought about packing in 2x4. Temporarily nailing it to tree and just using the saw body as a guide along the 2x4. But long term that would wreck my saw.

Nail the top of the 2x4 along your intended cut line, and use it to guide your bar. The worst that would do is rub some paint off the bar, which happens in normal use anyway, or you chew up your 2x4 some, but that wouldn’t hurt your saw any, it would be cutting WOOD, which is what it is designed to do.

Just place your nails low enough that if you do chew up your 2x4 a bit, you aren’t hitting your nails, THAT, would mess up your chain some

Give it a try, you have nothing to lose but the cost of a 2x4, and a few nails

Doug

 

[Husky Man]

If you’re going to pack in a 2x4, a 2x6 nailed to the top of your log would work as a guide for a Granberg small log mill. Use 2 1/2” nails, should be stable enough, easy enough to remove, and shallow enough to not be where you are cutting

Doug

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

No reason you can't free-hand that.

It doesn't need to be perfect, just cut the side off the log...why make it complicated?

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Unless u want to pack a aluminum ladder and a Alaskan mill free handing it is the way to go. If you hold the saw at a 45 or better or gradually plunge the saw in as you cut you can do it with anything if you have the time. Plenty of videos on youtube on free hand milling.

The problem I have with milling is the set up. It takes so long to go a log set up a mill then cut the slabs then move every thing back to the shop. Hauling logs to a suitable area to mill many slabs is OK but hauling around here is very difficult. My solution at the moment is a saw and a laser level or two. I often make one side smooth using the laser as a guide. Then I secure the log with whatever I have available such as screws or lag bolts. I set up the laser at one end or two then make a cut about one or two inches down. At this point I make any adjustments to the cut verifying with the level. When satisfied that the cut is pretty straight I continue. Soon I am cutting the last cut and very happy to be completed. When using patience the slabs are pretty decent. A router on a sled can make finished piece look like it was just planed. Thanks

 

[Bassmantweed]

No reason you can't free-hand that.

It doesn't need to be perfect, just cut the side off the log...why make it complicated?

I think you may be right.

 

[SweetMK]

I just "freehanded" some long dead/down locust,, it is so hard you can not drive a nail without predrilling a hole!!
I am not great with a saw, I simply decided to try, and it went well, the saw was sharp when I started, I think that helped.
Since I was cutting multiple pieces, I left the pieces slightly connected, until most cutting was done.
That helped hold the log in position.




(this is gonna be a garden cold frame, to start seeds)


I vote for freehanding,,,

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I just "freehanded" some long dead/down locust,, it is so hard you can not drive a nail without predrilling a hole!!
I am not great with a saw, I simply decided to try, and it went well, the saw was sharp when I started, I think that helped.
Since I was cutting multiple pieces, I left the pieces slightly connected, until most cutting was done.
That helped hold the log in position.

View attachment 981307

View attachment 981308
(this is gonna be a garden cold frame, to start seeds)


I vote for freehanding,,,

You will get better with practice. It is so much faster than the mill guide. Planing with a sled makes them pretty much perfect. Thanks