What's on your bench

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Husqvarna 359 my tree service friend from the neighborhood brought me to look at. Did an ultrasonic carb clean before looking at anything else, then found it only had 80 psi was the problem. A look at the piston told me all I needed to know and pulled the jug. Initial thought was jug was too far gone to clean up, but am reluctant to buy a cheap Chinese cylinder and the Hyway kits are about 3 times the cost of the cheap crap kits, and the OEM about 6 times. Kinda depended whether he wanted to give me his dead 359 and some money for one of my nice running 455 Ranchers I want to get rid of, or he wanted me to fix it for him, cause I warned him he'd probably be in it for at least $200. No reply from him yet, so I had a second go with muriatic acid to clean the transfer and went at it with 600 grit. In the end I got it really nice below the exhaust port but for one tiny spot and a couple of scratches above the port. Not my ideal jug, but should work okay. Ordered a Meteor piston kit for it, so should be able to get it running decent for $40 in parts. If it's for him, he'll probably figure out how to fry it in short order again so no need to fix it up too nice, and if it's for me, I have a way lighter MS361 I rebuilt I'd use any day over it so I don't want to put much in it. I think it was probably an already abused pawn shop saw he picked up, but will check for seal leaks if I keep it for myself. Second pic is cleaned up cylinder. Don’t like that ugly big main scratch above the port but understand from seeing others with about the same scratch that people cleaned up, will just lose a little compression but should run fine.
 

Attachments

  • 9A5DF589-E55E-407A-8C93-BA852501BD8B.jpeg
    9A5DF589-E55E-407A-8C93-BA852501BD8B.jpeg
    2.4 MB · Views: 1
  • 1C74CC5D-5BD6-4F0B-8955-63A711E9B158.jpeg
    1C74CC5D-5BD6-4F0B-8955-63A711E9B158.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 1
Also decided to fab my own 3/4 wrap bars on my 4000 and 361. I had some 1” dom steel tubing that is nice thin wall so it weighs nearly nothing. The inside diameter is 7/8”, which fits over factory wrap’s perfectly. Wish i had a bender, but for now, i cut 8-15 degree notches 7/8” apart to get the bend and welded them back up. Bolted them up to the factory bar. Shrink tubing on the bar. Turned out better than i thought it would, except for the heat shrink tubing wrinkles.
IMG_7889.jpegIMG_7893.jpegIMG_7895.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7889.jpeg
    IMG_7889.jpeg
    327.3 KB · Views: 0
Cannot seem to win with this 044 I've been trying to get running right. I am definitely dealing with fuel pooling, but I'm pretty sure the new intake boot was the new style and as far as P&V testing goes, it will hold 20inHg for days (left it for 3 days and didn't drop, also rotated the crank to make sure, no air leaks at all) and the carb also will hold 15 psi and both valves are seated and checked to make sure that the welch plug isn't leaking as well. I have the L jet turned out just till the idle starts to rise and then turned out ~1/16 more. H jet is right at 1 turn and it 4 strokes very nicely. Cuts hard, tons of torque, no bogging at all, just cannot rid myself of this bad idle and fuel pooling issue.

EDIT: I also reinspected my fuel and impulse lines (which are new OEM) and made sure that the intake boot was sealing against the carb (closed the jets and did a vac test with the carb included)
 
In other news I picked up this Homelite 35SL. It’s got the wrong recoil badge but looks to be all there otherwise. Any idea what these are worth, and is it even a collector item? Came up locally but I’ve seen a dozen XL-925s before I saw this come up.
The fuel lines are nice and soft and everything works. Previous owner had put gas in it before selling and had it running. Dumped the tank and let it idle till empty. Nice saw
IMG_5753.jpegIMG_5754.jpegIMG_5755.jpegIMG_5756.jpeg
 
Put the new Meteor piston and ring on the 359 and reassembled it. Starts but dies immediately, won't idle, but if you can catch the throttle in time you can run it up to full revs. Was hoping w the scratched piston I could still get 130-140 psi compression, but the best number I can get so far is 120. One of my old 455 Ranchers still gets 140 with the same tester. Think my ultrasonic clean of the carb maybe wasn't enough, and just ordered a cheap carb replacement for it. Put new fuel filter in and checked the hoses. In any event, not going to take cash and trade for one of my old 455 Ranchers after all I don't think, didn't realize the 359 was also a K095 mount so little difference, and without a new cylinder it's not as good a saw as either of my Ranchers are right now. I've sort of devalued the Ranchers as being worth much due to the rep of the Gen 2 Ranchers as a mediocre consumer saw, but the early 2000's Gen 1 Ranchers are actually a pretty decent saw. Dumber consumer style carb with quickly rotting cheap fuel lines, but otherwise not much different than the 359. Or maybe I will do the trade just to have one more different type of saw.
 
Got something working today, that makes me feel better. Put the new carb in the Husky 359 just before dark, wouldn't prime, was getting frustrated, but finally got it primed and going and idles fine now and runs good. Wait, scratch that. Tested it this morning and still hard starting and died in a cut. Installed a new fuel line - wow is that a PITA to get through both holes - and tried it over and over and no go except briefly with fuel in the cylinder. Finally accepted it was high time for a P/V test and try as I might, couldn't get it to pump up whatsoever. Kept thinking my sealing gaskets on the intake and exhaust must not be right, screwed with them a lot, still nothing. Got the flywheel off which was also a PITA, and eventually blew air from my compressor thru it and put paper towels all around it to see where air might be blowing out and it was coming out quite the starter side crank seal a good bit. Because Husky thought it was a brilliant idea to use a clutch and removal tool particular to only 3 or so of their saws, now I need to make a removal tool from an old socket or order one to get at the clutch side seal. Should have never bothered testing it in the first place before doing the P/V test, but luckily I never got it to run much.
 
It's on the low circuit.
Need to turn the low back in and find the happy medium...
Thanks for pushing the point. Reset the jets, turned the idle screw out till the chain stopped and then richened the H screw a touch until it cut and sounded like I wanted. Ran perfect and has a good idle now. I can swing the saw around any which way and no more stalling out. Sometimes the best advice is the one you hear over and over lol. Cheers!
 
On my bench are two really stubborn MS250 chainsaws, both have new engines (put them in myself), new carburetors, fresh fuel mixed about 40:1 and I can't get either saw to run right. I started one yesterday and let it run for quite a while and decided it might be okay; went out today and couldn't get it to even pop once. The second one is so hard to pull over I may bolt the saw to the table and hook the starter rope to the bumper of my truck! I've worked on quite a few saws (hundreds) but these two appear to be my nemesis.
 
The second one is so hard to pull over I may bolt the saw to the table and hook the starter rope to the bumper of my truck!
The 361 I rebuilt recently is ridiculously hard to pull. Not sure why. One of the 045/056’s I rebuilt was really hard til I figured out the crank wasn’t seated in the bearings right. Gave the crank some hard taps w a hammer and it was fine.
 
You know, I take it back about the fresh fuel. I think I may have put in some fuel that should have been used in my Lawn Boy mowers. I'll go out tomorrow and mix up some fresh fuel and see if that makes a difference. Other than that I can't imagine why these saws don't start, especially the one that already ran recently. Still doesn't account for why the one is so hard to pull over since it does have new bearings, being it's a new engine.
 
Well, the Husky 359 is finally off the bench after my most boneheaded partial rebuild in awhile. Could not get any crankcase pressure for the life of me after first reassembly with cleaned up cylinder and new piston and a brief bit of running, assumed the seals were blown. Got the clutch tool in the mail finally - stupid 357/359-only clutch tool - and got the clutch side seal done. All back together still no pressure. Low compression and weirdly breath-y sounding. A little rattle-y. Finally remembered I hadn't tightened down flywheel bolt. Still basically the same. I'd shook the cylinder a number of times to make sure it hadn't come totally loose and it seemed snug but like an eejut all this time I never checked the cylinder bolts. One was tight, the rest were totally loose. Doh! That'll defeat you every time. Even then I wasn't getting more than 100psi and it wasn't starting. Eventually noticed decomp valve was in. Pulled it out and fired up immediately with decent compression. Man, that was a comedy of stupid after stupid. The good thing is at least I replaced the crank seals and the fuel line which I might never have bothered doing otherwise. And got rid of one of my 455 Ranchers and upgraded to a better saw.
 
Four more saws landed on my bench all at once from my neighborhood tree service friend. Stihl pole saw with another shaft problem, a Stihl MS171, a Husky 460, and a Husky 435. Can't even remember what's supposed to be wrong with all of them. Should keep me busy. Also may force me into more systematic approach - seems compression is a good easy first check, then spark, and if both those good, can start getting into all the different things causing fuel delivery problems.
 

Attachments

  • A3889F6C-A33C-432D-8B3D-3470EA301105.jpeg
    A3889F6C-A33C-432D-8B3D-3470EA301105.jpeg
    3.8 MB · Views: 0
Back
Top