Bench is finally cleared of all chainsaw stuff. I now use it to feed my cat on..
What's on your bench
- Thread starter chainsaw _ crazy
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My new and not even started yet Echo Timber Wolf. I'm installing the Red Beard oiled foam air cleaner, the offset crank key and modifying the muffler before it even gets started. Pulled the limiter caps as well...
Did the same thing a while ago to the Echo top handle arborists saw but in that case, just replaced the cat muffler with a non cat one from SawAgain.
All my Stihl's have modded mufflers as in opened up.
Depending on how the Timber Bear runs, I may change the carb to one with a larger throat as well.
Did the same thing a while ago to the Echo top handle arborists saw but in that case, just replaced the cat muffler with a non cat one from SawAgain.
All my Stihl's have modded mufflers as in opened up.
Depending on how the Timber Bear runs, I may change the carb to one with a larger throat as well.
I was getting ready to offer the Homelite XL up for sale, started it up this morning and heard a strange noise coming from around the starter so I replaced the starter assembly, started it up and still have that noise. Hmmm..
Two 359 Huskys, Both loose intakes, both stuck rings, best deal out there in a used saw,lol.
Hey Marshalltown - if you don't want old Blue, I am in need of a good clutch cover...
Mark
Mark
Sorry Mark... not my saw. I can ask the owner if he is willing to sell tho.....?
The 61/272 conversion almost complete! The handle is on now, but just have to mount the clutch and starter assembly for her first start! Gonna try out this Hyway 272 clutch rather than stock, also did some Mild port work for better air flow and polished exhaust pretty decent, roughed up and shaped intake opening to the new intake block and transfers flowed a little better!
Will update thoughts after heat cycle and testing!! May also make a thread of before and after of port work if I get the time.
Will update thoughts after heat cycle and testing!! May also make a thread of before and after of port work if I get the time.
Sounds like something is hitting the flywheel, maybe a mis tightened shroud?
Piotr Pakuła
ArboristSite Guru
I would check the wedge on the flywheel
If I get a little time I'll try to check it out. It's kind of a buzzing noise. I've put a bunch of these together and never heard that noise before. Maybe a loose flywheel?
I took the starter assembly off the xl again today and all looked well; flywheel nice and tight and not rubbing anything that I saw. I have a little bush that needs to be cut down, might try the xl on it tomorrow and see if it does anything weird.
I require the hive minds opinion.....
My Skunkworks 51 project crankcase paint is peeling a bit. Should I peel it off and sand smooth or let it ride? Would I be opening a can of worms by removing just those 2 sections just to have the rest come off by itself and wreck an OEM top-end?
My gut says peel and sand to eliminate a possible hazard... Thoughts???? Questions??? Thank you.
My Skunkworks 51 project crankcase paint is peeling a bit. Should I peel it off and sand smooth or let it ride? Would I be opening a can of worms by removing just those 2 sections just to have the rest come off by itself and wreck an OEM top-end?
My gut says peel and sand to eliminate a possible hazard... Thoughts???? Questions??? Thank you.
And the classified Zenith carb project is on hold for finding 2 holes in the bowl. Many more pits on the inside but just these 2 poke thru. A used carb would be the same gamble and a new carb is in the $400 plus range!!! OUCH...
I may try some Belzona to fill the holes. I think this carb is all aluminum but may be magnesium....? Zenith assem. no. 13401. L57E series.
Thoughts on repair techniques???
I may try some Belzona to fill the holes. I think this carb is all aluminum but may be magnesium....? Zenith assem. no. 13401. L57E series.
Thoughts on repair techniques???
I think would strip the whole inside of the crankcase, there’s a good video on YouTube that Tinman recently put up on one of his builds about this exact problem, and just a thought without even watching it from what I’ve gathered from it, is if a piece were to chip off and get into say a bearing it could seize it, or in a ring I think and cause it to stick so it could possibly cook the saw
Crap... missed that vid. I been lacking on the video watching as of late for it is summer out and getting stuff done outside takes priority. Staying up later than 9pm makes a long day when a guy gets up at 4:30 am.
It will be a little work but probably worth it for the survival of the saw.
It will be a little work but probably worth it for the survival of the saw.
First plane I ever flew was a zenith, CH701 with a rotax 912! I never had a chance to fly it on floats, just fixed a radio issue, then he had a motor problem before we got a chance unfortunately
Tell me about it, I do know how that goes
But my thinking is usually if I have to stop and think about it more than once before I do it or not , then I probably should do it just for safety’s sake lol
- Joined
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- Joined
- Mar 18, 2023
- Messages
- 336
- Reaction score
- 444
I wonder what the heck made it come loose from the bond. I have a old 038 mag. with the same thing. Is there anyone that knows if the coating helps cool the crankcase or if it would be ok to remove it and run it without the coating. I haven't reassembled the one I have. It would be great to know what the actual purpose of the coating was. I have all the rebuild parts for mine but just leary about the coating also. It is problematic to get solid information on it. I just don't want to dynamite 150 bucks of C&P. There is a bake on coating for pistons that might be a viable alternative for recoating once stripped down. I think heat cure at 450 degrees (Molybdenum Sufide I think) There won't be any friction involved so it might last a long time. Just more and more questionable info and possible alternatives.
Husky 350/346. What? No start? No impulse, No fuel. Runs on mix down the carb. Fuel line cut?Nah that never happens. Well it did ,lol.
