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New 52mm big bore jug and pop up piston showed up for the franken365 today so I neglected changing the ball joints on the suburban to put that saw back together.

Just as a note squish was .027” without base gasket so I left it out and used a little bit of Motoseal.

Got it together hand filed the chain and fired it up (fired up second pull) made two cuts and hit a rock in a log, so decided to pull the chain and grind it and found that it has a very poorly modified small mount bar on it, so now I’ve got to go hunt down a large mount bar, probably put a 32” on it.

Anyway. Ran it far for a tank going real easy on it, then tuned it.

Unfortunately I don’t have any big enough logs on hand right now to justify any cross cut videos, but it seems to pull that 24” chain pretty well ripping.


View attachment trim.523303CB-AC68-4F47-AE7F-5C0C4F9AA9D2.MOV
 
I’d like to find one of those or a super 380 but they’re not easy to come by. I’ve got a really nice PP330, had to put a new top end on it as the original hung a ring. Swapped the high speed nozzle for a non jet type (check valve was missing) and did a pretty conservative muffler mod. Removed the tube and added another window to the baffle. That saw runs surprisingly well.
Fyi....Screenshot_20230218-084016.png
 
Man it twas there this morning. I'll check and ask one of the teenagers to save it or forward it or one of those things I ain't smart enough to do!
Yeah I looked it up under sold, someone local must have snagged it up. Someone who knew what they were looking at I’m sure. Thanks for the heads up on it anyway. I’ll find one sooner or later.
 
I guess I now have a saw that is what the tag says. "Air Leak". I tested the 028 and can't get any pressure inside the engine. I double checked my air fittings and blockoffs and it doesn't appear to be leaking so I guess now I'll check the seals and, if I can get it clean enough, I'll check the intake boot and impulse hose. It is really a filthy saw, you'd think that dirt would keep it from leaking!
 
I guess I now have a saw that is what the tag says. "Air Leak". I tested the 028 and can't get any pressure inside the engine. I double checked my air fittings and blockoffs and it doesn't appear to be leaking so I guess now I'll check the seals and, if I can get it clean enough, I'll check the intake boot and impulse hose. It is really a filthy saw, you'd think that dirt would keep it from leaking!
Well, I checked the crank seals with soapy water and no leaks there so I took the cylinder off to check the boot and impulse hose. When I got all the dirt off the hose and boot they looked like new! I rechecked my equipment and it seemed to work okay. The engine doesn't appear to have any holes in it so right now I'm kinda stumped...
 
On my workbench is a really fine running and cutting Husky L65 with a stripped bar bolt. I can't get the clutch cover off and don't know how I'm going to get the nut off the bolt and the bolt out of the powerhead casting. It's a great old saw and I want to fix it.
 
On my workbench is a really fine running and cutting Husky L65 with a stripped bar bolt. I can't get the clutch cover off and don't know how I'm going to get the nut off the bolt and the bolt out of the powerhead casting. It's a great old saw and I want to fix it.

Which stud is stripped? Front or back?
 
The back one.

I THINK it depends on the era, the service sheet I have for the 65-77 dates from 1972 and shows threaded studs- but I believe later ones may have had the pressed in rectangular head studs and you should be able to see which you have with the muffler removed?
I would be splitting the nut with a cutting wheel on a dremel type tool to remove- may have to have a machine shop make a new stud if all else fails and or you cut too deep.

http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna 65 L.pdf
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The back one.

You might also be able to manipulate the bar to put pressure on the clutch cover (with the front stud nut removed) while turning the back stud nut and it might just jump the nut up onto the unstripped section of the stud and remove normally.
Kind of depends on if the nut or the stud have lost threads.
 
You might also be able to manipulate the bar to put pressure on the clutch cover (with the front stud nut removed) while turning the back stud nut and it might just jump the nut up onto the unstripped section of the stud and remove normally.
Kind of depends on if the nut or the stud have lost threads.
good idea Bob
 
Parts being sprayed and polished for a Yamaha 1200 VMax at the moment. Nothing to do with Chainsaws what so ever. Don't worry though my 135mk2 was chucking bar out of the bottom of the saw earlier while the wife was cutting fire wood so that will on there one evening next week.
 
Having been stumped temporarily by the 028 I decided to try the 026. I found that, in addition to a slight air leak it has a scored piston and probably a cylinder. In addition, a previous "repairman" tried to repair the broken fuel line by gluing it back together. I found the bottom half in the bottom of the fuel tank along with the filter. I must admit I've never seen that before! It seems to need several other things as well. I'm wondering at this point if either saw is worth messing with..
 
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