What's the deal with non saftey chains

[Quimby93]

When I got my saw serviced last I had them go completely through it. Carb adjustment new bar chain plug fuel lines.

Went to cut with it and it WOULDENT CUT. so I took it to a licensed stihl dealer and he goes " someone cut metal with this. One. Two. This is a non safety chain.

So I went home sharpened my saw. Cut. Perfect.

Went back to the local non stihl chainsaw shop and **** all over there manager for cutting metal with my saw.

But it's fine. I just want to know.. What's the deal with the non saftey chains, I don't know the name of the chain I just know it cuts like a son of a #####

 

[Torquin]

My understanding is: If it ain't a safety chain it's a regular chain. The safety chains were invented to reduce/prevent kick back to keep from killing novice chainsaw users that don't know how to operate a saw. These safety chains have extra teeth between the cutting teeth and have a stepped ridge on them that exposes itself when the chain goes around the tip of the bar. This makes it very difficult or impossible for the chain to grab anything while going around the tip of the bar. The unfortunate part is is also makes it cut less in the areas where it is designed to cut because those keep the cutting teeth from being able to cut as deeply as they could without those extra teeth.

When I bought my MS270, gosh 6-7 years ago, I specifically asked them to remove the safety chain before I picked it up. They did and it cuts great. With my other saws, I'll run half or full skip if the saw will pull it.

Chris

 

[mayhem100]

In my experience, most places default to safety chain if you tell them "I need a new chain". Its just the way it is unless you wank in with a 660 and a 37" bar or something.

In fact, most places around here its impossible to buy anythng other than safety chain. I have to either go online or drive 20 minutes out of my way to get a real cutting chain.

In the dulling bit. I bet the shop monkey that did the work on your saw bench tested it on an actual bench and while he was revving it it probably tipped forward and he just pretended it didn't happen because he didn't want to get in trouble.

 

[lfnh]

so, how's the chain pulling. .

 

[GASoline71]

The saw shops around here will ask ya... "You want skip, or full comp?" You have to ask them if you really want that safety chain garbage.

Gary

 

[MattCrowe]

In my experience, most places default to safety chain if you tell them "I need a new chain". Its just the way it is unless you wank in with a 660 and a 37" bar or something.

In fact, most places around here its impossible to buy anythng other than safety chain. I have to either go online or drive 20 minutes out of my way to get a real cutting chain.

In the dulling bit. I bet the shop monkey that did the work on your saw bench tested it on an actual bench and while he was revving it it probably tipped forward and he just pretended it didn't happen because he didn't want to get in trouble.

Not down here, none of the dealers will fit it as replacement unless specified, oh and isn't it only .325 and below ? never heard of .375 or .404 safety chain...

 

[komatsuvarna]

Oregon makes 3/8s safety chain I know. Its got the bent over rakers, but i cant remember the number.

 

[tdi-rick]

Not down here, none of the dealers will fit it as replacement unless specified, oh and isn't it only .325 and below ? never heard of .375 or .404 safety chain...

Yep, you can get 3/8 reduced kick back chain here, but you really have to look for it.

 

[MattCrowe]

Yep, you can get 3/8 reduced kick back chain here, but you really have to look for it.

Ah ok, well there's a thing, don't think i would bother though Rick...haha.

 

[tdi-rick]

Ah ok, well there's a thing, don't think i would bother though Rick...haha.

Me either mate, and none of my suppliers stock it anyway

 

[maccall]

Oregon makes 3/8s safety chain I know. Its got the bent over rakers, but i cant remember the number.

It's the 72V/73V. Looks stupid, harder to sharpen because the rakers are in the way, and then you could try to find a tool to fit the chain to help you lower the rakers when they need it...

:bang:

 

[Evan]

rakers so tall the chain cant cut wood. gota love safety chains. i ounce cut all the safety rakers off a oregon safety chain. a complete waste of time when a oregon lgx loop is 16 or 8 bucks

 

[tdi-rick]

It's the 72V/73V. Looks stupid, harder to sharpen because the rakers are in the way, and then you could try to find a tool to fit the chain to help you lower the rakers when they need it...

:bang:

It actually cuts OK once you lower the rakers, run it standard and it's a waste of time.

 

[mattinky]

Yep, you can get 3/8 reduced kick back chain here, but you really have to look for it.

I've seen Stihl 3/8 safety chain

 

[TreePointer]

The Stihl/John Deere dealer near me will reluctantly give me yellow chain. They handle it like liquid nitroglycerine and give me curious looks. Same thing with ES bars.

The mom & pop Stihl dealer just gives me what I want. Somehow I managed to convince them that I'm an adult.

 

[jhellwig]

I've seen Stihl 3/8 safety chain

That is what my 441 came with and I didn't think it was that bad. It is the style that had the nub on the driver not the tie strap style. Looks to me like the only way the nub would even do anything would be on the tip. It even noodles good.

 

[Eccentric]

Not down here, none of the dealers will fit it as replacement unless specified, oh and isn't it only .325 and below ? never heard of .375 or .404 safety chain...

Stihl and Oregon 3/8" safety chain is all over the place around here. I got three used XL-12 family Homelites from the same guy a while ago. One had a 20" hardnose, the second a 24" Windsor Speed Tip sprocket nose, and the third a nice 20" roller nose. All three had 3/8" Oregon safety chain on 'em.

I bought an old Homelite C-5 on ebay back in 2007 (see my avatar pic). That saw had an 18" Homelite hardnose and a loop of Stihl .404 chain (has "46" on the drivers). Never seen that chain before or since. Had little bumper links. That bar and chain is now on different C-5 that belongs to another AS member.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I've had a couple of saws that had safety chain that would actually cut wood pretty well. I don't know the brand of chain it was but one was on a Poulan Pro small chainsaw. Normally I would prefer the non safety chain. You do have to be careful with either one.

 

[WadePatton]

Did they stop making .325 _non_ bumper/safety/grandma chain?

Last loop I sourced locally came with bumper drivers and wouldn't cut squat out of the box. I sharpened it and made it cut, but I really don't want any extra metal going 'round the bar.

Can't find it at Bailey's. It used to exist, my JR's came with non-safety.

OR should i convert the drive to 3/8's to avoid the hassle?

 

[SteveH]

I normally use non-safety chain, Stihl RS and RSC [I have a bunch of the old stuff]. But the last two saws I bought had safety chain and the dealer sent it home with me for spares or whatever. I put it on just to see how bad it is, due to all the people who've told me it isn't nearly as good, and to my surprise, it cut quite well and I used it some. It did not cut as well as non-safety chain, but the difference was pretty small. I have to admit I didn't want to bring it home but the dealer said he didn't want it and I could set it aside for suspect wood [nails, etc.]. Hey, surprise, it worked great.