When is it time for a new chain? Sharpening techniques?

[TrogL]

I finally got a working saw - a Makita DCS34. The previous owner showed me how to get it started and gave me a few other tips.

It runs like a dream. It starts on the 2nd pull, idles forever and is deathly quiet (until you rev it up).

I trimmed a tree with it and on the last cut it seemed to take forever to get through it and it was blowing sawdust the consistency of flour, which I understand is a sign that it's time to sharpen.

I had a look at the chain and it's got a few bent blades which look straightenable. I checked at Canadian tire and they stock a replacement chain.

So when do you break down and buy a new chain?

What's the best technique for sharpening an existing chain? I've got a flat file and a 3mm circular file, but I understand this might not be adequate.

 

[Lawn Masters]

I normally replace a chain when there's nothing left of the cutters, or when its stretched all to hell and cant be shortened to be usable again.

 

[brent denny]

If you have more than one or two bent teeth, the chain will probably never cut very smooth. I believe that particular saw should use a 5/32 round file. You will need the flat file for the rakers. If you do not have any experience sharpening a saw, it is best to buy a filing guide. You should sharpen often. You should never let it get to the point where it throws just dust. You dont need to buy a new chain unless it is really damaged or the teeth get filed down to the point where there is little left.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Good advice from Brent above. I'll add that you'd be best off getting a dedicated saw chain round file. They're cheap, and are considerably different than a standard round or rattail file. Get a file guide, also cheap. A chain should cut smooth and evenly. All of your teeth should look the same-size, condition, ect. Do a search on here for "chain sharpening," or "file" or something like that. This has been discussed before, and there's a bunch of info and online links you can look at.

And congrats on getting a decent saw.

Jeff

 

[Blowdown1]

If it is crapped up too bad it might be worth just getting a new chain and keeping the old one for those time when you know you will be in some really dirty spots (stumps, old downed wood, etc).

But you then get into the issue of what chain to get, which opens up another can of worms. Do a search for full chisel and semi chisel on this board and read through what people have to say about the merits of both and choose based on your needs. And remember, you need to match the pitch, gauge and drive link # to your saw when you replace the chain.

 

[GASoline71]

TrogL, I know you have had problems with dealers and service departments as of recent. But I had just bought 10 chains from a friend of mine that were in fair/decent shape. Most of them (6) were used during dirty cuttin' and were slightly rocked out. I had neither the time or the desire to sit and sharpen all 10 of those chains. So I took them down to the local Stihl dealer and had them sharpen them up for cheap. Got them back in a day or two, and now have 10 good sharp chains, with the cutters and rakers all the same. Just another avenue you could consider. My 2 cents.

Gary

 

[Lobo]

hi TrogL, here are 3 excellent tutorials you can read that will help in understanding proper filing techniques. Once you understand them clearly the rest is practice, practice, practice. Filing is like sex, the more you do it the better you get at it.

Just not quite as exciting and pleasurable.

http://www.opeconsult.com/chainsaw.htm

http://www.kadcousa.com/email/2000-10/2000-10.html

http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice061301final.pdf

 

[GASoline71]

Filing is like sex, the more you do it the better you get at it.

Just not quite as exciting and pleasurable.

Nice!
I almost spit coke all over my computer when I read that!

Gary

 

[spacemule]

I've got to dissagree Lobo, the better you are the more pleasurable the experience.

 

[Blowdown1]

with sex or filing?

 

[brent denny]

 

[TrogL]

it is best to buy a filing guide.

How much are they? Are they specific to the individual saw?

The Makita parts manual lists a filing guide but I have no idea where to buy one.

 

[spacemule]

with sex or filing?

Yes.

 

[spacemule]

I remember my first time well. I was overly confident, and my strokes were too hard. I blunted the tooth and made a goobbered mess that would not hold a straight line. As my experience grew, I learned to use the right sized tool for the job and slow, deliberate, delicate strokes. Nothing is more pleasurable than a straight cutting, chip throwing chain!

 

[scottr]

File guide

How much are they? Are they specific to the individual saw?

The Makita parts manual lists a filing guide but I have no idea where to buy one.

TrogL , the clamp on file guide that I bought from Lowes years ago was made by Oregon and came with two files for $5.95 . Is your chain Oregon 91 (3/8" low profile) chain . The number is stamped on the side of the drive link .

 

[Gypo Logger]

I remember my first time well. I was overly confident, and my strokes were too hard.

I remember my first time. It was in the bush on a piece of White Ash.
The Ash was split right up the middle to the crotch, but I got her up the stump after pulling out the root.
All in all it was a pretty nice piece of ash so I have nothing to birch about.
John

 

[Mcsaw]

Gypo ever cut any Piss Fir?

 

[Gypo Logger]

Ya, I did.
I was out on a trapline looking for some fir and some fur. So for some bait I hung out this big salami I had and low and behold I caught some fur.
So anyway, I caught this beaver and I had to take it's pelt and stretch it.
They say when you stretch a beaver it will stretch a mile before it tears an inch.
So anyway, I sold the beaver in town for 10$ and went into the liquor store and on my way out I ran into my brother and he said, "whata ya got der?
" I got a bottle a wine fir my wife".

"good trade."

 

[tony marks]

now fellas i like filing a good chain too. but it aint in the same league as the other thing mentioned. as to that ,its like any think else. u get out of it what u put in it. lol

 

[Damo]

The "Chip" is one of the best indicators of chain sharpness, but common sense never hurt anyone either. 5/32" chainsaw file on a guide rail...and really take your time if it's new to you. Start at the leading tooth, i.e. the shortest and most knocked around tooth and the follow suite for the other teeth. In other words, if we get the worst tooth back to a decent cutting edge then this becomes your "bench-mark" tooth. Remember that we want both sides to be equal. Your flat file takes the top off the rakers and if that's new to as well then you can get a tool for that as well...do you know what rakers do ? If not find out...this very important as well. From here we can talk about angle of stroke, but you boys in the Northern Hemisphere will have your own chosen angles anyway. Someone mentioned pitch and gauge...again, make yourself aware of what these are and how they relate to your saw. We can get all caught up in what is a good quality file and the make of chain, type of chain...semi or full chisel, half and full skip, etc, but it's best that we work out the basics first. Cheers from Downunder.