Chain sharpening help

[Welderman85]

Hello all. This will probably sound dumb but I need some help with starting to sharpen my own chains. I used to just have a few chains and when one would dull I would have the little shop in town fo it for 3 bucks. Well they retired so now hear I am lol. I don't cut alot so I was thinking of getting the stihl 2 in 1 file thing. Are those any good.

 

[huskihl]

Hello all. This will probably dound dumb but I need some help with starting to sharpen my own chains. I used to just have a few chains and when one would dull I would have the little shop in town fo it for 3 bucks. Well they retired so no hear I am lol. I don't cut alot so I was thinking of getting the stihl 2 in 1 file thing. Are those any good.

The 2 in 1 is perfect for what you want

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Hello all. This will probably dound dumb but I need some help with starting to sharpen my own chains. I used to just have a few chains and when one would dull I would have the little shop in town fo it for 3 bucks. Well they retired so no hear I am lol. I don't cut alot so I was thinking of getting the stihl 2 in 1 file thing. Are those any good.

$3? Lol
going rate now is closer to $15

 

[PV Hiker]

Hello all. This will probably dound dumb but I need some help with starting to sharpen my own chains. I used to just have a few chains and when one would dull I would have the little shop in town fo it for 3 bucks. Well they retired so no hear I am lol. I don't cut alot so I was thinking of getting the stihl 2 in 1 file thing. Are those any good.

The 2 in 1 is perfect for what you want

^ + 2. This would be great for you to get your chains sharp and learn about sharping. Watch a few videos to get a idea how to use it.

 

[thompsoncustom]

$3? Lol
going rate now is closer to $15

Shop in my town does it for $5

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Shop in my town does it for $5

Including rakers?

 

[trains]

2 in 1 is a good place to start, there are some good threads here on chain sharpening.

In time, you will be custom filing the chain to suit your timber and power head .

there are many different types of file guides that people use, the granberg file and joint, bar mount type can be good for building up muscle memory, remember, these things are guides, so dont fight against them, or be rough handed with them, bit of a pain to set up, but once sorted, can give good results, the guide helps you learn to do a straight pass with no wobble, you could get all your other angles right, but mess up the tooth with a wobbly pass.

here is a more recent thread that may be worth having a look at, there are plenty here if you search for them.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/my-sharpening-journey.350704/

 

[thompsoncustom]

Including rakers?

I'm sure if they needed it then yes but he hasn't need to on any of mine.

 

[HumBurner]

Including rakers?

Most shops around here won't even touch the depths.

$8-20+ depending on the DL.

Price on File-n-Joints around here have skyrocketed, too. $55-75 before tax. Metal is weaker than the older models, more prone to breaking.

 

[artbaldoni]

I use one of these Husky roller guides. Make sure you get the correct one for your chain.

 

[ZeroJunk]

We charge $13 if it's on the saw and we take it off. $9 for just the chain.

The easiest way I have found to do this with a file is put the bar in a vise with the power head still attached so you can put the brake on and have the chain tight on the bar.

Just file it the same angle you are looking at and angle the the file down some degree that everybody can argue about, but I don't thing there is any magic angle as far as the angle down. I always file in to the chain which is something else to argue about.

Take your thumb or finger and you can tell when it's sharp.

At some point you can file your rakers down with a flat file, just remember you can always take more off, but you can't put it back on.

 

[user 122190]

Hello all. This will probably dound dumb but I need some help with starting to sharpen my own chains. I used to just have a few chains and when one would dull I would have the little shop in town fo it for 3 bucks. Well they retired so no hear I am lol. I don't cut alot so I was thinking of getting the stihl 2 in 1 file thing. Are those any good.

From people that use the 2-in-1 they are the greatest thing, and probably a good tool for some one starting out. Still, nothing beats a single file, but there is a learning curve to getting effective results. I have taught a few people how to use a single file and they are quite good at it now. If you have a big chainsaw user you can ask, some questions and a demo might be all you need.

From what I know (very little) you need several of them (7/32, 13/64, and possibly 3/16), and they lock you into what other measurements they deem as optimal, i.e. rakers depth. And then you still need to buy replacement files for when they wear down. So just buy the files and skip the pricey mount/tool.

 

[GeeVee]

You should FEEL the work being done, the metal coming off the tooth from the file working, and, you should FEEL when the file isn;t cutting. further, you should be able to feel when you HAVE sharpened the tooth you are working on, and know taking more out of it, isn;t doing anything but taking more out......

A magnifying glass if necessary, a good round file of the right size, and if you need a comparison to the right angles and relative sharpness, a new chain of the same sort.

Its not rocket surgery.

 

[user 122190]

You should FEEL the work being done, the metal coming off the tooth from the file working, and, you should FEEL when the file isn;t cutting. further, you should be able to feel when you HAVE sharpened the tooth you are working on, and know taking more out of it, isn;t doing anything but taking more out......

A magnifying glass if necessary, a good round file of the right size, and if you need a comparison to the right angles and relative sharpness, a new chain of the same sort.

Its not rocket surgery.

My break thru on single file sharpening happened when I put on my reading glasses. Wow! Yous gots 2 C wot yous iz do in 2B sucestfull.

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

Personally I would learn how to file free hand.

Buckin Billy Ray has some really good videos on it on youtube.

 

[PEK]

We charge $13 if it's on the saw and we take it off. $9 for just the chain.

The easiest way I have found to do this with a file is put the bar in a vise with the power head still attached so you can put the brake on and have the chain tight on the bar.

Just file it the same angle you are looking at and angle the the file down some degree that everybody can argue about, but I don't thing there is any magic angle as far as the angle down. I always file in to the chain which is something else to argue about.

Take your thumb or finger and you can tell when it's sharp.

At some point you can file your rakers down with a flat file, just remember you can always take more off, but you can't put it back on.

Me I do not ask for cash here but accept payment in 2 litre bottles of my favourite beer Kamenitza $1.50 and several of them also give me salami or bacon. I always tell them to bring just their chain. It used to piss me off in UK if I did some peoples chains, do the chain, clear out the crap from bar and crap off power head then them to say it leaks, my answer was it was so full of sawdust it soaked it up so just chains now but I do my own chains with a file.

 

[Welderman85]

So here's another dumb question. What's the difference between full and semi chisel. Do they both get sharpened the same.

 

[PV Hiker]

So here's another dumb question. What's the difference between full and semi chisel. Do they both get sharpened the same.

The shape of the working corner of the top plate. Chisel comes to a point and semi chisel is rounded.
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[ZeroJunk]

So here's another dumb question. What's the difference between full and semi chisel. Do they both get sharpened the same.

Yeah, you sharpen them the same.

If you are competing or something you may use a square cut file.

That is a whole different can of worms.

 

[cdherman]

So I have a question. In the 1970s with the oil crisis, my dad bought a Sears craftsman chain sharpener. Takes the stones. Has a little guide that helps with the angles. Also came with a jig to help you file off the rakers.

So I learned how to sharpen quite a while back. Another poster mentioned that putting the bar in a vice with the motor head attached is a nice trick. Exactly how Dad and I do it. Puts the chain up at a nice height to work and everythings nice and stable.

The question: Is this system using a rotary tool and stone as good as a file? I seem to be getting good results this way. My chains last for a long time. My bars do too. In fact, I tend to keep the chains "touched up" and for whatever reason, it seems my rakers wear down on their own fast enough that I never have to file them. I never take a lot of metal off, because I don't have to. Tend to be careful and avoid cutting rocks and nails!!!!

Anyone else use this approach? My wood cutting buddy uses a file and everytime I look at his chains, I feel sorry for them........