Which file guide?

[woodchip rookie]

I have been watching vids and reading on sharpening chains. It's probably time I get somewhat serious with chain sharpening. There's probably other threads on this but let me eliminate some of the options first.

1) No electric. I want a hand guide that doesn't need a 12V battery setup, 12V PSU or 120V wall power to run. I want something that can be used anywhere anytime.

2) I want a file guide that holds all angles. Meaning the file does not rely on ME to maintain any of the angles. Something that clamps to *something* (expaination below), holds all the angles but relies on me for power and pushing the file through the cutter.

3) The file needs to clamp to something, be it the bar with the chain on the bar or some way different with the chain off the bar (in a vise?)

4) I dont want junk. Junk pisses me off.

 

[trains]

Granberg file n joint
stihl fg3 or fg2
oregan of type mentioned above.

Get a stump vice, and your good to go.

Just got a new top bushing for my old Granberg b model, just fixed 2 rocked chains to razor sharp again.

Happy Easter all

Trains

edited to add oregon fiel guide on a little 180

 

[James Miller]

Free hand is the answer. If its junk when you free hand you know the problem is you. I started fileing around April last year and just lately feel like I'm starting to get it right. What would have passed for saw dust and a butchered chain a year ago now looks like this.and I don't have to remember a guide.

 

[Khntr85]

Get a granberg, $30 and it WILL make you lean how to free hand....muscle memory over time will kick in for anyone who can eat with a fork and knife.....

You will like once you get it set up right, it's not hard at all!!!

 

[Philbert]

Granberg type, or STIHL FG2.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/

Philbert

 

[woodchip rookie]

I just read that thread. Thank you.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

There are many threads about this topic that have come up just in the last year. James seemed to get it. Running a file over your cutting links is not difficult. It is easy peasy after you have a few well sharpened chains. From my point of view the guides are junk and a waste of time. The angles and depths are just not important for start up. Fine tuning the process will come, but getting started is important. For me it was a do or die situation in that I had only one chain with no experience, was poor, no body to show me anything and was only 14 years old. It is tough for me to comprehend how so many people are spending time with grinders and cutting wheels. One thing that helped me learn was to tighten up the chain in the bar until it barely moved. This helped keep the chain stable while experimenting with angles. Start with one stroke on the rakers and do not worry about how they look. After messing up a couple of cutters while dressing the rakers it seemed natural to do the rakers first then on to the cutters. Soon you will discover if the rakers are too low the chain will chatter if the rakers are too high the chips will start to be very fine and not good sized chips. A good vise to hold the bar stable whether at home or in the field is a requirement. Even now wearing gloves with cuffs are a nice tape saver. Duck tape works pretty well to patch up nicked knuckles, but gloves can prevent their use altogether. Some chains have a little marks for angle guides to help with the angle matches. With the marks it is hard to get it wrong. Cut a small hardwood limb into 4 to 6'' lengths and drill small holes into both ends about 2 or 3 /32''. Try several of them until you find some that are perfectly comfortable. One end gets held with the free hand and the other hand does most of the pushing always pushing the cutter that is on the opposite side from you. Just start filing and after a few messed up teeth you will recognize how to make an improvement. Thanks

 

[Khntr85]

Yep hand filing a chain or two is very simple....now sit down and file 20-30, 25" chains....then you would like a grinder....

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Yep hand filing a chain or two is very simple....now sit down and file 20-30, 25" chains....then you would like a grinder....

You are right if you need to sharpen other folks chains then a grinder is not nice , but needed. My comments were aimed at people who take off their chains because they do not want to sharpen their own. Hand filing is much faster than taking a chain off your saw. Thanks

 

[Philbert]

Free hand is the answer.

It is tough for me to comprehend how so many people are spending time with grinders and cutting wheels.

With respect, 'it is tough for me to comprehend how so many people' don't answer the OP's question, and need to tell him that he is wrong. It is a classic A.S. response by freehand filers to any question about file guides or grinders. Almost like an evangelical fervor needing affirmation.

Sharp chains are important. There are lots of ways to sharpen chains. Some guys just want to use a sharp chain, but are not interested in all of the rituals surrounding various methods of sharpening.

You guys are happy with freehand sharpening, and that works for you - that is great. This guy asked for specific help in choosing a file guide.

Philbert

 

[woodchip rookie]

The time factor doesn't matter to me. When I go out I have all sharp chains for all saws. I have a (mainly) 3-saw plan.
1) Stihl 192t-12" bar
2) Husky 445-16" bar
3) Husky 576-20/24" bar
The big Husky doesnt even come out of the truck most of the time so I normally only use 2 saws, so thats only 4 chains IF I trash one or 2. I'm not sharpening in the feild. When I toast a chain I swap chains and worry about sharpening at home. I have had success with freehand but its hit or miss and the little 192 is impossible for me for some reason. Take some time, set up a jig, sharpen stuff, have all sharp stuff ready to go next time around. I'm not a logger in the PNW out in the middle of nowhere with one chain and a file.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Philbert we know that you like your grinder and for you that is perfect for you because that is what you like. We also know that you give your opinion on many issues which is what this whole process is about. My opinion is that using a file guide is like asking a operator to bring his D9 caterpillar to clear snow off of your front walkway to your house. Yeah it will get the snow off of the walkway, but at the cost of braking up your walkway and destroying the shrubs too. For those who want to change their chains they will not care what others think they will change them. Been on both sides of this issue and some works for me and for others they do it different. Thanks

 

[Philbert]

Ted,

I have never met you, but from your posts you seem to be experienced and knowledgeable.

Lots of ways to sharpen everyone has to find something that works for them.

Maybe we will meet at some GTG and discuss the finer points of freehand filing; I am always looking to learn / improve my skills.

Philbert

 

[old guy]

I can freehand, but I would rather use the Husqvarna roller guide, it controls the depth, the angles I can deal with.

 

[dancan]

I'm a hack so I use Stihl's version of the Pferd guide .

Works for me and the guys I've shown it too have all bought the same guides and have been happy .

 

[Khntr85]

I sharpen some chains for some older guys that have cut for years....they all know how to free hand file a chain....they still pay me to do it....morel of the story anyone can get an edge on a tooth, hardly no one can hand file a chain to end of life and the angles be the same!!!

If you have the luxury of time to experiment, like some did, by all means grab a file....if your time is valuable, get a guide and start building muscle memory and keeping all angles correct....:


Good luck and post pics of chains, you will get even MORE advice LOL....

 

[woodchip rookie]

I'm a hack so I use Stihl's version of the Pferd guide .

Works for me and the guys I've shown it too have all bought the same guides and have been happy .

The issue I have with those is I would have to buy 3 guides because I think each guide only does one size chain. I have 3 different size chains I think

 

[woodchip rookie]

Which brings up another question.....do the bar mount style guides only hold one size file? Do I need 3 different size bar mount style guides to do 3 different size chains?

 

[Philbert]

The Granberg style file guides are pretty much universal. Most will hold all sizes of round chainsaw files, as well as 'triangular' chainsaw files (actually 6 sided; used for 'square filing', and sometimes for depth gauges).

Philbert

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Ted,

I have never met you, but from your posts you seem to be experienced and knowledgeable.

Lots of ways to sharpen everyone has to find something that works for them.

Maybe we will meet at some GTG and discuss the finer points of freehand filing; I am always looking to learn / improve my skills.

Philbert

Philbert was not trying to offend you or any one else. As you have pointed out there are many ways to accomplish a particular goal. My guess would be that most people could master the free hand system quite easily, but most do not want to think about it. It does not cause me grief, folks will do as they think best for themselves. For many people here who go way beyond the occasional cutter should look at all the options. For people who cut now and then especially those that just want to keep their house warm for the winter would and should take their stuff to a good dealer. As soon as you have free handed successfully about 30 chains then would love to find out what your take on the whole process is. I spent several years with a grinder for customers and would not have dreamed about trying to free hand any of them. For me to think that having presharpened chains to last for two weeks would not work. It would take at least 40 or 50 chains to make it happen. It still is interesting to me how most folks do everything differently. Thanks