Who uses the chain brake?

[Tzed250]

There is no more wear on the saw with the brake on during idle than with the brake off.

 

[timmcat]

I treat my chain brakes like roll bars, I dont roll my vehicle to test my roll bar, likewise I dont engage the CB everytime the bar is out of the wood. It goes on when the saw is running in the tree when i'm on a rope, but thats about it. If i'm on the ground working the saw is either in the wood or shut off. Although periodic testing doesn't hurt.

 

[1Alpha1]

I never start a saw with the brake on.

When cutting wood (I actually do that at times), if I need to set the saw down, it gets shut off first.

Only time my saw is running, is when I have physical control of it.

 

[Jefflac02]

Dolmar 5105

Just got my new saw and I have found I can't keep the saw idling on cold start with the chain brake on. After it pops and I flip the switch, when I make the next pull it will fire and run for a spit second, then bog down. With the chain brake off, it starts and idles smooth.

Note, I always start my saw cold in my garage or driveway, then warm up the saw and the run it to warm up the chain.

When I get to the woods, it's warm and starts up every time. The chain brake is on, every time when I am not in wood. I too have small kids and even though they haven't been out with me yet, I want to create a habit so when they are around, I already have my routine down pat.

 

[066blaster]

like i said on another thread some people use the chain brake like a "safety" on a gun. But if it keeps you from bleeding i guess it's up to the user if they want to do this.

 

[2dumb4words]

Just got my new saw and I have found I can't keep the saw idling on cold start with the chain brake on. After it pops and I flip the switch, when I make the next pull it will fire and run for a spit second, then bog down. With the chain brake off, it starts and idles smooth.

Note, I always start my saw cold in my garage or driveway, then warm up the saw and the run it to warm up the chain.

When I get to the woods, it's warm and starts up every time. The chain brake is on, every time when I am not in wood. I too have small kids and even though they haven't been out with me yet, I want to create a habit so when they are around, I already have my routine down pat.

Sounds like your idle is too high. Or your referring to high idle position.

 

[7sleeper]

Just got my new saw and I have found I can't keep the saw idling on cold start with the chain brake on. After it pops and I flip the switch, when I make the next pull it will fire and run for a spit second, then bog down. With the chain brake off, it starts and idles smooth.

Note, I always start my saw cold in my garage or driveway, then warm up the saw and the run it to warm up the chain.

When I get to the woods, it's warm and starts up every time. The chain brake is on, every time when I am not in wood. I too have small kids and even though they haven't been out with me yet, I want to create a habit so when they are around, I already have my routine down pat.

Take your saw back to the dealer to have the carb readjusted after ~10 refills. Further you shouldn't let the saw idle itself up to temperature. I start my saw and then put on my equipment(gloves, helmet, eye&ear protection). That is my idling time, not more not less.

7

 

[T0RN4D0]

Nothing really wrong with letting it idle to warm up. Waste of fuel and possibly a little carbon build up tho.

I seldom use a brake. If i put the saw down in some thick brush maybe, or if its not warmed up and chain wants to spin or creep in idle. Always drop start them with the brake off.

 

[2dumb4words]

:msp_scared:

Nothing really wrong with letting it idle to warm up. Waste of fuel and possibly a little carbon build up tho.

I seldom use a brake. If i put the saw down in some thick brush maybe, or if its not warmed up and chain wants to spin or creep in idle. Always drop start them with the brake off.

:taped:

 

[showrguy]

Did you ever see someone walk through thick brush with the chain brake off and have a stick hit the throttle and run the saw wide open acrossed their thigh? I have.

no.
all my saws (stihls) require you to have both your palm and your finger on the trigger at the same time to throttle up...
i don't cut in thick brush..normally..
if my saw is running, and i'm walking with it, it's being carried by the top handle, not the rear handle...
i don't wear any ppe either, other than ear pluggs ..
it's not law here, but i do wear a helmet on a motorcycle........ huh, go figure ??
been running saws for 33 years and never came close to cutting myself ??

to each there own i guess..

i ain't gettin in a pissin contest over a chain brake.....lol

 

[stihlrookie]

i should take all the brake systems off of my saws and sell em on fleabay,,,, they never get used....

if your saw is tuned/adjusted right the chain should not be spinning when your walking with it anyhow....... just sayin.

Yep, as was stated already, what about brush or stick getting to the throttle with no brake on, accident waiting to happen. Keep your booger picker out of the throttle area too as a slip with no brake on could cause serious injury.

It has become second nature for me to roll my wrist and engage the brake whilst moving about with the saw running. Same for disengagement, simply pull back on the brake before cutting. I don't even think about it anymore, it just happens.

 

[Jefflac02]

Take your saw back to the dealer to have the carb readjusted after ~10 refills. Further you shouldn't let the saw idle itself up to temperature. I start my saw and then put on my equipment(gloves, helmet, eye&ear protection). That is my idling time, not more not less.

7

My warm up consists of running the chain for a few seconds to heat the chain up. I was told by the dealer to warm the chain up. Then readjust the tensioner. At least with a brand new chain. I know others have said it is bs, but it seems to need it. At least after the chain does get warm. Just a 1/2 or full turn and its perfect.

 

[promac850]

I don't. Not all the time anyways. A few of my saws don't even have them...

But I leave the system intact on saws that came with them, no breaking or removal of the trip lever here.

 

[H 2 H]

The most use my chain brake gets is when I put a bungee cord on it when I'm transporting it in the back of the pickup :msp_ohmy:


JMO

 

[McCulloch1-52]

I don't own a chainsaw that has a chain brake, but when I use chainsaws that have them and they turn on by them self when starting then I turn them off.

 

[Philbert]

I use the chain brake when I start the saw, when I walk with it (motor running), or anytime I stop for more than a second or two to figure out what/where the next cut goes.
As stihlrookie said, it becomes reflexive to flip the brake with my wrist after making a cut.

No doubt that running the saw with the brake on will smoke something. There is a long list of dumb things that operators do to their saws - not the fault of the brake.
If a saw revs out of control on start-up, it might be another problem (carb adjustment, air leak, etc.)

Old timers managed ok before brakes right?

Old timers also managed in cars before seat belts, air bags, safety glass, DOT 3 brake fluid, radial tires, etc. Except for those that died.

I always sort of assumed that the whole "starting with the brake engaged" was more to protect the manufacturer from liability. And that a free spinning chain has to be easier on the clutch.

When people are starting their saws, especially if it is being a little 'fussy', they tend to develop tunnel vision on the saw, and may not keep track of where the bar nose is pointing.
If you have your needle bearing clean and lubed, the idle properly adjusted, and if the springs in your clutch are not stretched out, the clutch should never touch the drum.

Philbert

 

[7sleeper]

My warm up consists of running the chain for a few seconds to heat the chain up. I was told by the dealer to warm the chain up. Then readjust the tensioner. At least with a brand new chain. I know others have said it is bs, but it seems to need it. At least after the chain does get warm. Just a 1/2 or full turn and its perfect.

Have to agree with others. On a new non Stihl chain, run it in some wood for a few cuts and then readjust, don't make it to tight, just "snappy". Usually a new chain lengthens in the first few cuts, after that its done and will not lengthen again. Stihl chain is prestretched so no need for that procedure. If the chain is of a quality manufacturer(Stihl, Oregon=Blount=Carlton=Windsor) then there is no need to worry about "chain warm up".
I only run Stihl chain.

Good luck!

7

 

[Jefflac02]

Have to agree with others. On a new non Stihl chain, run it in some wood for a few cuts and then readjust, don't make it to tight, just "snappy". Usually a new chain lengthens in the first few cuts, after that its done and will not lengthen again. Stihl chain is prestretched so no need for that procedure. If the chain is of a quality manufacturer(Stihl, Oregon=Blount=Carlton=Windsor) then there is no need to worry about "chain warm up".
I only run Stihl chain.

Good luck!

7

I have a stihl chain to try on my 5105. I will check it out. And try the Oregon chain in the wood before adjusting also. Thanks.

 

[2dumb4words]

I use the chain brake when I start the saw, when I walk with it (motor running), or anytime I stop for more than a second or two to figure out what/where the next cut goes.
As stihlrookie said, it becomes reflexive to flip the brake with my wrist after making a cut.

No doubt that running the saw with the brake on will smoke something. There is a long list of dumb things that operators do to their saws - not the fault of the brake.
If a saw revs out of control on start-up, it might be another problem (carb adjustment, air leak, etc.)




Old timers also managed in cars before seat belts, air bags, safety glass, DOT 3 brake fluid, radial tires, etc. Except for those that died.





When people are starting their saws, especially if it is being a little 'fussy', they tend to develop tunnel vision on the saw, and may not keep track of where the bar nose is pointing.
If you have your needle bearing clean and lubed, the idle properly adjusted, and if the springs in your clutch are not stretched out, the clutch should never touch the drum.

Philbert

I agree that "the clutch should never touch the drum" on a warm restart. But on a cold start on hi idle, it's gotta be hitting at least briefly. Seems rough, no?

 

[Sabertooth]

I almost never use it. If anything, starting the saw with the brake on is annoying. I however use the brake sometimes when I'm in a tricky spot and to move around or hop off something. I always use the brake If the saw is idling too fast and I don't wanna stop to fix it right away.

I would rather have a saw with a brake then without one.