why blakes over taut line?

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Jacked bo'lin ?

JPS, explain to the Swede, what is a jacked bo'lin ?
Is it a jacked bowline ? And if so, what would that be ?
I'm beginner in aided tree climbing, so there might be
better ways to finish off a bowline, this is the one I learned,
and I feel very safe with it.
 
hillbilly,

Read spidey's previous post about the Yosemite tieoff, which is a good way to back up or "finish off" a bowline. Conversely, a jacked bowline, whch uses two loops instead of one, is just a better bowline, but not a way of "finishing" it off.

Question for all: What are you attaching the bowline to? If it is a carabiner, that is unsafe, as a loose knot can led to side loading onto tthe minor axis of a biner, which is not good. I use a double fisherman's bend, actually am using a triple more for added safety. this is the knot of choice for prussic loops also, both closed and open ended. Better yet, get your lifelines spliced.
 
That is why i stack a 'biner full, so lines can't work around, also; used to climb on screw lox, so used that bulk to impede the gate opening when loaded.

In a modified D i have made big enough bowline eye to girth onto the 'biner; but didn't like the way it looked for some reason.

i use the same bowline all day to carry and rig the rigging line.
Snapping 'biners and slings into it all day, sometimes for multiple cuts at once. i also keep a 'biner in the eye of it, for: carrying, throw weight and threading in "1/2hitch w/running 'biner" type lacings on load (would be running bowline, but 'biner as final choking ring is reuasable-open/closable/locking ring) etc. So, i have complete confi-dance in this double/roundturn/mountaineering/super bowline for max./increased strength/security ease of tying/untying (i use slip knot method to lace both rings easily), then backed up further with the Yosemite tie off instead of a stopper knot (who's need is lessened by the 2 choking rings). Then for all that work in and out of the eye of the bowline with 'biners all day, really, really appreciate the eye being clear and clean, becasue of the way that the Yosemite folds it back, chokes it, and keeps it out of the way; keeping eye very open and ready.

The combination of the 2 ring bowline and Yosemite tie off also yield another important aspect. From "On Rope" Padgett and Smith (excellent #16201) i got a respect for knot inspection, buddy knot inspection etc. Our moutnaineering bros. seem to go towards the fig. 8 family of knots (that take less loading to be troublesome IMAO); for ez id of knots; i think that this combo makes the knot more symetrical and more immediately, easily identifiable and checkable; esp. reusing the same knot all day in many ways and journies. So to my TDS program i expanded to Tie, Dress, Set and Inspect.

Every day we untie all knots and relax the lines, all this allowing easier threading with throwline, diffrent loading/wear point, adj. size etc. in our temporary eye in trade off for the higher strength of a permanent eye splice.

The bowline has been long touted as "The King of Knots"; its simplicity, strength, and grace in not jamming and utility is quite a ballet. To me this knot i use and sliding it in with slip knot has become what looks right, anb definitely an improvement over the basic style. The king knot probably deserves it's own thread; examing the fine diffrence betwixt it and its close relative the sheet bend and how simply they both employ a 1/2 hitch for their magic.....

P.S. i like anchor bend as long as it is dry; wet is tough too loosen; but still breferr double bowline with Y tie off as temporary eye for termination and utility, especially with 'biner in the eye.
 
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Anchor tails to the side

bend_anime.gif.100


Anchor with a half hitch tie off

Fishermans tails back up paralel the working end of the rope. It is basicly an overhand knot, the double has 2 turns a tripple has 3, down then back up.

Could not find a pic using it as a terminating knot, only as joining two ropes.

Knot freek? here is some "light" reading
Links on Knot Theory-http://search.dogpile.com/texis/search?q=Knot+theory&geo=no&brand=dogpile&cat=web
 
Have to agree with spydy that the bowline is the King of knots. The anchor hitch has a sterling reputation. My prefered tie to a snap or biner is the Buntline.-Compact, economical in line length used, and I 've never had it creep.(And if you are useing eyed snaps or thimbles it works better than the Anchor hitch.)
 
Find the .GIF on another page, copy .GIF URL

come back to A'Site, click on IMG button on message page.

paste .GIF URL into IMG feild, click "OK" button

:D :p

There are apps you can get that will assemble a gif animation from a series of pics. I'm not that interested, yet.
 
After 113 posts it seemed appropriate to resurrect this thread. I've been experimenting with a 3 over 2 Swabisch and am really liking it-graps firmly with no inclination to inch along the line but slides oh so easy when you want it to.
Query: How many descend on a figure 8 or a Munter on a 'biner as opposed to descending on the hitch alone. ( I know there is a lot of published literature saying to use a belay device with a friction hitch back up. But I've always descendedon my hitch -NOT rapid descents.
 
Kinda depens, if having worked my way down to the last branches
and it's just a couple of meters to the ground, I descend on the friction hitch. If I think there's gonna be trouble pulling down
the false crotch, I'll climb up to it, remove it, and descend on
a figure-8 backuped with a Klemheist.
Anyone ever used a stitch plate or similar device for descents ?
 
i think that fig. 8's and muenter (which i beleive is harder on line, yet provides more braking, than single wrap fig. 8) corkscrew the line too much for me. Especially on long drops, stiff line (more corkscrewing) with lots of line left over (that doesn't let tangles kick off the end).

i played with a stitch plate a while back, didn't get too serious with it. Has anyone ever used a 'rack' for a friction/braking device on loads?
 
I know a window washer who uses a rack. Tom D. uses a Stop.

I will use a munter on a long rap, butmostly will bail on the hitch.

Ken, how does that Yellow Jacket, I see in the stitch plate pic, work for you?
 
A stich plate is a belay device only. I used one for many yrs of climbing... The small hole in figure 8's is similar, also for belaying.

It is designed to pass the rope freely for climbing, but lock up under a fall. Thus, its action is not appropriate for descending....


...except for certain spidey types....
 
Haven't tried the Yellow Jacket yet; had to get it to grab that deal! All of it is in the bag except that end thru a hole for pix. i like keeping a virgin line around, just so their is zero, nil, no hesitation to change out; removes all the ex-cusses!!!!!

i drag the rope on my feet too. This gives 'feel' that there is more rope; and breaks up the total amount of friction even further, allowing heat to dissipate between each point. For just as with the FS, it takes the same amount of friction per load/speed; if it isn't present at one point (redirect, friction hitch, dragging feet on line, friction from other limbs rubbing etc.) it must be made up at another point to equal the same braking factor.

Also i think that a muneter grinds the rope against itself, and puts the tightest bight on the rope, and the only one of the three that has more friction buildup (thermal insulator on thermal insulator; synthetic on synthetic), rather than total synthetic on heat dissapating metals of which aluminum would help better than steel.
 
just had to continue on this thread

RBTree, you're right, the stitch plate is a belay device only.
What I meant with "similar device" was the tube-breaks
or the ATC from Black Diamond.
I know people use them for rappelling in rock climbing,
anyone tried 'em with arborist rope ?
Would think the didn't twist the rope like an figure 8.
 
There are much safer tools for arbos to use for rapping. Since we work in a climbing system that is "Let go/stop falling" I believe that our hard wired brains might get confused in the case of a slip. Unless there is some kind of backup for any figure eight/tuber/ATC family device, arbos are setting themselves up for a grounder.

The Kong Indy, Antec tool: http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/Rappel/BobbinPages/FBobbin546.html or another tool that features a panic stop. With these two tools the only time your can descend is when the release lever is in the "Sweet Spot" Grab or release and it locks. Much safer.

Sinc arbo ropes is much bigger than rock rope you must check the manufacturers specs to see what size rope can be used. The dharcteristices might change catastrophically if the rope isn't the right size.

Tom
 
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