Wish to woods port 2100cd

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Yeah Madsens has 9-pin rims and they're something like $25 if I'm remembering correctly. That's only twice as much as my local dealer charges for "standard" sizes, but it is probably four times more than most online/wholesale places charge. It's been a while since I looked so I can't remember exactly. At any rate you should have a much easier time sourcing a 9-pin rim than a 2100 oiler!

About that 70e, what's the matter with it? I salvaged a bunch of 285 parts from a saw with a busted case (thread here)that might work with your 2100 (oiler included) and might be interested in working out a trade if the metal's all good and the P/C isn't thrashed. Still haven't decided if I'd rather try to build up a 285/2100 of my own with the parts yet. I've been trying to catch up with my old saw friend to see if he's got the parts I'd need to complete it, but he hasn't been 'round his shop for a few days now. Worries me somewhat, he is 74 years old after all.

You could also mention that 70e to fellow AS member "cjcocn". He has a penchant for old Jonsereds especially. I actually PM'd him about a 70e I saw at a yard sale here last summer, but it was a bit more than he wanted to pay for it at the time and in its condition.
 
My stock 2100 with an 8 just showers the chips. I currently have a 7 on it with a 32" bar and full comp chain and it is an absolute pleasure to use cutting our eastern hardwoods. Its about a perfect combination.
 
I started porting today I was doing well until I opened up the cylinder I had picked out, and found pits and a chunk out of the edge of the piston, too bad, one thin ring down. So I opened up the other cylinder perfect everything was nice and clean, a good thin ring to work with. I managed to get the intake opened up a little. pretty much I ended just squaring it up. I dropped the floor about .035" tomorrow I will square up the exhaust leaving a arch in the roof of the port and raise it .035". I am trying to get pictures up, but haven't been successful yet. I have been moving really slow. Cut and check,and check,and check again.
 
Brmorgan said:
Yeah Madsens has 9-pin rims and they're something like $25 if I'm remembering correctly. That's only twice as much as my local dealer charges for "standard" sizes, but it is probably four times more than most online/wholesale places charge. It's been a while since I looked so I can't remember exactly. At any rate you should have a much easier time sourcing a 9-pin rim than a 2100 oiler!

About that 70e, what's the matter with it? I salvaged a bunch of 285 parts from a saw with a busted case (thread here)that might work with your 2100 (oiler included) and might be interested in working out a trade if the metal's all good and the P/C isn't thrashed. Still haven't decided if I'd rather try to build up a 285/2100 of my own with the parts yet. I've been trying to catch up with my old saw friend to see if he's got the parts I'd need to complete it, but he hasn't been 'round his shop for a few days now. Worries me somewhat, he is 74 years old after all.

You could also mention that 70e to fellow AS member "cjcocn". He has a penchant for old Jonsereds especially. I actually PM'd him about a 70e I saw at a yard sale here last summer, but it was a bit more than he wanted to pay for it at the time and in its condition.
Click to expand...

I haven't had time to open up this Jonesred yet, It belongs to a friend of mine , so any trades would have to go through him, he's a husky 372 fan, so it will probably have to go for cash. Im just tryin to help him out, I will see about getting a pic of it up. I ran it last year it currently has a ity bity 16" bar and 3/8 .050 on it and it was a screamer, then it just quit. Haven't had a chance to check out why yet!
 
No problem. Just a word of caution though - if you have pics etc. and are really serious about selling it, post an ad in the "Trading Post" section. Otherwise you risk getting busted for "non-sponsor selling" if you just go around saying "I have saw X for sale for price Y" in various forums. Don't ask me how I know!
 
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Sell my 2100, I would just as soon as poke out my right eye, and that's the one I shoot with. I am excited I got the porting done I dropped the intake floor .035" and raised the exhaust the same, then just opened up the sides as much as I dared took the gasket and put in my spare parts bin, and siliconed the cylinder down I am waiting for that to dry. I also managed to round up a 8 pin rim. This is gonna be cool. If this works out like I think it will drilldaddy and I did some tradin' I got a 288 in line next. Who needs heroin when we have chainsaws!
A buddy of mine compared porting this saw to P.O. Ackley improving a .470 Nitro express. He Said, " took everything in your way with this saw before, now nothing is safe." like I said I am pretty excited. I owe all you guys for your help, thanks again.
 
Running Screamer

I fired my 2100 up today. Keep in mind this is my first port and I never would have attempted it if it weren't for all the great people who stepped up here and helped me out.
The first thing I did when it fired was to set the idle speed, and then I just let it idle for about 15 minutes. These are all the same parts inside, but I learned a long time ago that when you pull a motor down this far, when you fire it a gain it is a good Idea to let all the parts get reaquainted again before making a power pull.
After about 15 minutes I slapped the trigger, she fell on her face, a little more fuel on the bottom end solved that. The first rip unloaded was a little over 13,500 too high, a little more adjustment and I was rewarded with steady and conssistant rips between 12,500-12,750, about what I wanted.
There is more too it then this, throttle response is glass breaking crisp and almost instant, I can't describe it properly, you have to run the saw to know what I am feeling, it is just alot more.
The only thing I notied is the idle window on the bottom end is narrower, but I lowered the intake, and raised the exhaust, along with removing the cylinder gasket to get my compression up. When I thought about it this is the equilivalent to changing the cam in a small block chevy, the intake and exhaust durations have been changed this tends to narrow up the idle window in some cases if the changes are radical enough it will all but remove the idle window, so I guess the saw is doing what it is supposed to or what should be expected.
Last word I love the new saw, and want to thank all you guys for your help from the bottom of my heart with out your help this never would have happened!
 
Sounds good, now we just need to see it! It really isn't all that bad once you just decide to bite the bullet and do the deed, eh? I was so worried about destroying the 181 when I did it last winter, but it turned out really well. Mind you, I have a pretty strong mechanical aptitude in general and can usually figure things out fairly quickly just by looking. I've seen some virgin cylinder mod jobs crop up here that ended up totally destroying the cyl so it's nice when first tries work out well - no offense intended to those involved; mistakes are to be learned from and far be it from me to say I haven't done the same with other things that are a little more out of my normal scope.

As per the idle, I've noticed that too with the three saws I've done (Husky 181SE & 371XP, Stihl 041 Super) My 181 takes a couple solid minutes to warm up and hold an idle without spinning the chain. And I tried three different clutches on it to make sure it wasn't because of weak springs! The 371 idles nice, but every few seconds it'll give one really good "pop" that will spin the chain ever so slightly. My 041s are the lowest-idling saws I've ever seen, so the clutch engaging isn't an issue, but it took a lot of fiddling and fine-tuning to get the Super to idle nicely, respond to the throttle quickly, and not want to stall when coming back down to idle after a good WOT run. Just a few degrees' turn on the L jet would make all the difference; it was really surprising actually.
 
Me and my son are gonna get you a video I would have done it yesterday but we got about 2 foot of snow and most of our wood piles are covered, I spent most of the day uncovering things, but I will get it.
I love this saw. I raised both ports like I said this is effectively like increasing the duration in a camshaft on a 4 stroke. When I was younger we used to build a lot of Hot Rods for drag racing, you increase the duration or the time the valves stay open, and the lift how much it comes open, pretty much the general rule is the more duration you get the higher the lift the worse your idle gets, some motors wouldn't idle period we would set the carb at quarter throttle get them to the line and let them fly. These 2 strokes are really tiny motors, small changes in the ports obviously make radical changes in the way they run, I m pretty sure that if you lowered the intake and raised the exhaust enough the low end on your carb might not work at all. I am no expert but judgeing by the way this saw has behaved I am guessing I am pretty close.
 
I don't have nearly enough time in doing this kind of work yet to be saying this from personal experience, but if you raise the exhaust in a 2-stroke you will raise the RPMs but you'll lower compression and narrow the torque band. A lot of guys here seem to recommend leaving the exhaust height intact for basic port mods, unless they end up dropping the cylinder far enough that they need to compensate for it. Having said that, I more or less inadvertently ended up raising the exhaust in my 181SE by probably 1.5mm when I did it and it still pulls 180 PSI and has monster torque.
 
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terry2tmd said:
Me and my son are gonna get you a video I would have done it yesterday but we got about 2 foot of snow and most of our wood piles are covered, I spent most of the day uncovering things, but I will get it.
I love this saw. I raised both ports like I said this is effectively like increasing the duration in a camshaft on a 4 stroke. When I was younger we used to build a lot of Hot Rods for drag racing, you increase the duration or the time the valves stay open, and the lift how much it comes open, pretty much the general rule is the more duration you get the higher the lift the worse your idle gets, some motors wouldn't idle period we would set the carb at quarter throttle get them to the line and let them fly. These 2 strokes are really tiny motors, small changes in the ports obviously make radical changes in the way they run, I m pretty sure that if you lowered the intake and raised the exhaust enough the low end on your carb might not work at all. I am no expert but judgeing by the way this saw has behaved I am guessing I am pretty close.
Click to expand...

That's a real good explanation of what is going on. Thanks for posting.
 
Great post, I learned alot from it. My dad has 3 2100's... I'll likely be porting one of them and removing the governor. After reading this post the itch is on.

Also great to see someone else on here from Utah. I was starting to think I was the only one. :cheers: :cheers:
 
I been all over the western United States and I keep ending up back here In Escalante. My Dad cut trees here for the local Sawmill when I was growing up the husky 2100 and a 32" bar with 3/8 .050 square cut chisel chain was all he ever used. I used to fetch gas & Oil for him. I learned to love the 2100 then I guess because it was dependable and it allowed Dad to feed us. It feels pretty good to have one of my own. Yeah! I am a born and bred Utah boy and proud of it!
 

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