Woods Porting The MS660......Tricks And Tips

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you dont think that pump gas is a little low for that much compresion? I have probably run at least thirty tanks through that 046 at 50:1 but it was always 96 or 100 octane
 
you dont think that pump gas is a little low for that much compresion? I have probably run at least thirty tanks through that 046 at 50:1 but it was always 96 or 100 octane

As strange as this may sound, you don't need that much octane for a two-stroke engine. At 12,000 RPM the burn rate on 100LL is too slow for complete combustion.
 
I bought that fuel for the 046 but ended up running it the 066 bb with 160psi. After probably 15 tanks or so I pulled the muffler and jug. Muffler was dry and brownish black. The piston had a nice brown wash on the top, so I would think the it would have to be burning all the fuel.
 
I bought that fuel for the 046 but ended up running it the 066 bb with 160psi. After probably 15 tanks or so I pulled the muffler and jug. Muffler was dry and brownish black. The piston had a nice brown wash on the top, so I would think the it would have to be burning all the fuel.

Cool :msp_thumbup:
 
I'm even more picky. I use non-ethanol pump gas with Belray H1R @ 36:1

They have alot of products, why do you like this over some of the other oils that Belray offers, or other brands.
 
They have alot of products, why do you like this over some of the other oils that Belray offers, or other brands.

There was a RC airplane guru that did very extensive testing of a great many oils. H1R was the clear winner......good enough to end the oil testing for me.
 
The 100LL fuel has been tested by you and I both with no gains.......and in my mind I think the engines ran better with 87.


I havent done any testing with fuel, I just try to run the best that I can. Its a lot of money and time to get them to run the way that they do to dump any old fuel in them. But I'm sure it would be fine as you guys said, just a piece of mind for me.
 
Running multi-blend synthetic at 45-1 summer and 50-1 winter on pump 92. I have ran pump 87 but the faster burn turns up the temps in hot dry weather pulling long bars in hardwoods. Still need to hit them with some AV fuel or a good lead additive once again before they get to firewood workout. Thinking about trying some Link-ite in one to see if it cleans up anything before a re-ring job this fall.

Has anyone tried Z-max or equivalent in a saw or air cooled engine yet?
 
hey every one, my first time posting. saw question time!

I have 2 saws right now a 1999 husqvarna 55 20" bar 3/8 full skip chizel, its on motor #2. but my old faithfull friend is definately wearing thin.....and ive out grown her to be honest!...lol

i recieved a 2nd saw free on craigslist, in parts serial # 8350998 and its a 254. im assuming the saw is 1988 vs 1998? it just says 252 not 254 se or xp. needs new bearings bar chain and sprocket.

if its a 1988 what were the power out put differances between old and more modern 254 xp?
should i replace the jug/piston?

i plan on widening the intake boot, muff mod and possibly a port job.
what kida power do you think she will have in the end?

any tips advice ect?

i will run eather a 20" or 18" bar .325 chain.......i learned that 3/8 took alot of juice from my 55 (used to be 20" .325)

thanks H-man in alaska
 
Premium pump gas with full synthetic oil at 32:1. That's what I advise to all my customers. I wouldn't go any less than 40:1.

FWIW, I've got one of your 660's and it's been run daily for about a year now, have put well over 500 tanks through it (probably closer to 1,000) under heavy loads in summer with a 36" bar full comp chain in aussie hardwoods. I run 50:1 pump fuel (98 octane non ethanol in aus) with stihl dyno oil in all my saws. I had the muff off it a couple weeks back and had a peek in the barrel. Clean as a whistle, no marks or scoring. Muff also very clean with no carbon buildup.

A lot of guys seem to run their big saws on 40:1 or 32:1 here. All it seems to do is gum up the works.

Shaun
 
I have 2 saws right now a 1999 husqvarna 55 20" bar 3/8 full skip chizel, its on motor #2. but my old faithfull friend is definately wearing thin.....and ive out grown her to be honest!...lol

i recieved a 2nd saw free on craigslist, in parts serial # 8350998 and its a 254. im assuming the saw is 1988 vs 1998? it just says 252 not 254 se or xp. needs new bearings bar chain and sprocket.

if its a 1988 what were the power out put differances between old and more modern 254 xp?
should i replace the jug/piston?

i plan on widening the intake boot, muff mod and possibly a port job.
what kida power do you think she will have in the end?

any tips advice ect?

i will run eather a 20" or 18" bar .325 chain.......i learned that 3/8 took alot of juice from my 55 (used to be 20" .325)

thanks H-man in alaska

I'm not real familiar with that series. It might be best to start a thread in the CS forum. :msp_wink:
 
FWIW, I've got one of your 660's and it's been run daily for about a year now, have put well over 500 tanks through it (probably closer to 1,000) under heavy loads in summer with a 36" bar full comp chain in aussie hardwoods. I run 50:1 pump fuel (98 octane non ethanol in aus) with stihl dyno oil in all my saws. I had the muff off it a couple weeks back and had a peek in the barrel. Clean as a whistle, no marks or scoring. Muff also very clean with no carbon buildup.

A lot of guys seem to run their big saws on 40:1 or 32:1 here. All it seems to do is gum up the works.

Shaun

It's not the size of the saw that makes me mix my fuel the way I do. It's the oil I use and the amount of compression I like.
 
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