buy new saw or old?

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If I were to head out in the am. To cut a 30in hickory. From my stable in the husky line id take the 357 & 394. From my stihl line up it would be 036 & 066.
 
Another vote for neither.

You need a good 70cc saw if that's the typical stuff you'll be cutting. You won't be happy otherwise.

Alright, I'm gonna say it. You need 2 saws, one to limb and one to buck with. Is the 028 a "Super"?

You'll lose the fun of cutting branches off with a 70cc saw rather quickly.

For the trees you're describing, I'd grab my 026 and my 066.
 
The saws your looking at would work as limbing saws, recommending new over used. You are gonna want 70cc class at least for the dropping and bucking on the trees you describe though. On, and Echo is easy to work on because you don't have to work on them...
 
While you COULD cut 30 inch woodvwith a 50 cc saw, it is creating a lot of extra work. If you are worried about weight get a Jonsered 2260, awesome Power to weight. Or look for a good used 372 XP pre X- Torq, again good power to weight. The 028 could do it but again creating a lot of extra work and parts are getting hard to find.

Joe
 
I have personally owned an 028super and although it was a decently stout saw, I wouldnt want to put it in anything larger than a 10 or 12 inch hardwood occasionally.... I think it is a little heavier than an 024 or 026 but has more power and is great for medium stuff or softwoods.

I test my saws on a piece of pine and a piece of maple.... You would really be amazed at how easy some of what you think are better saws get bogged down in the maple.... Even with sharp chains....

The 60-70cc class sounds ideal for you because they arent too hard to start, have lots of power, and dont weigh much more than some heavy 50cc+ saws.

The echo 590 600 620? All have a very good rep on here and you might get a great deal on one used from here (check with bplust).

Also, the dolmar/makita 7900 saws are very good $$$ deals when used
 
OK so bigger saw. I'll leave the 028 in my friend's collection, it's a super in VERY GOOD condition and I think he didn't really want to sell it anyway.
Most of the trees are under 30". I'll get a new saw and for the really BIG stuff he has logging saws I can use. Thanks for the answers.
 
What others have said, a smaller saw for limbing and a 70 cc for bucking/felling.

Don't know your age or size, but since you mention wt as a consideration, the 044/440 or 372 would likely be your best bet for that work. Hickory is tough stuff.

Best of Luck.
 
Probably common knowledge, but Having a bunch of extra chains that are sharp has been a real time saver and efficient way to keep on cutting for me as well, no matter how strong your saw is or how good of chain you buy, a dull chain will slow you down and make you and your saw work harder, especially in tough wood like Hickory.
 
Mostly between22" to 30" diameter. Some of the chestnut oak larger than that. The only reason I'm considering the 028 is it is in very good shape for an old saw. Parts getting hard to find?

I thought the 490with MM and tuning could handle the job? It's their smallest "pro" saw. I wouldn't mind the extra $ for the 590 if it would not be too heavy for me, old man that I am. I want a good power vs weight ratio. So the cs590 or other candidates???
Will the Echo saws be easy to work on like the Stihls?
I wouldn't be affraid to try one of Echo's 60cc class saws if you are in need of a good saw at an economical price, they seem to be a decent option. As far as easy to work on, the ones I have worked on are about the same as anything else, they are harder to source aftermarket parts for though and some of the factory parts seem spendy.
 
I wouldn't be affraid to try one of Echo's 60cc class saws if you are in need of a good saw at an economical price, they seem to be a decent option. As far as easy to work on, the ones I have worked on are about the same as anything else, they are harder to source aftermarket parts for though and some of the factory parts seem spendy.

I just sharpened the chain on my 355T for the first time and was a little surprised to find the clutch mounted outboard of the sprocket. That may be more interesting when it comes time to replace the sprocket? Puller needed to remove the clutch first? I wonder if all their saws have that setup?
 
I just sharpened the chain on my 355T for the first time and was a little surprised to find the clutch mounted outboard of the sprocket. That may be more interesting when it comes time to replace the sprocket? Puller needed to remove the clutch first? I wonder if all their saws have that setup?
I believe Echo sells a tool to change the sprocket
 
I just sharpened the chain on my 355T for the first time and was a little surprised to find the clutch mounted outboard of the sprocket. That may be more interesting when it comes time to replace the sprocket? Puller needed to remove the clutch first? I wonder if all their saws have that setup?


My cs520 has an inboard clutch so I assume they differ by model.
 
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