Echo has a new CS-490

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LOL don't do that as much as I like the 490 it's no 4600! I wish they still built them!

I would need some serious feedback on the 490 performance before roasting a 4600. I like that 4600 as much as my coveted 026.

Macky, I believe the cs400 is a clamshell(but a good one) ! The difference is a plastic case rather than a split magnesium case. The crank bearings on a clamshell are supported by the bottom half of the cylinder and the top half of the "clam" crankcase cover. Clear as mud now...right :dizzy:. Bearings are easier to change on a clamshell but the mag case is considered more robust and longer lasting. Most homeowner rated saws are clamshells. You can tell you have a plastic case when you (by mistake) run the saw hard w/ the chain brake on. Plastic will actually catch on fire if it gets hot enough.:buttkick:
 
the 400 is a clamshell but it is a good saw more so than the poulan pp4218 even if it has a restrictive muffler
 
I hope the new owners of these 490's take serious heed to the multiple warnings about these carbs set too lean from the factory due to EPA regs. I understand the concern about warranty but as these saws loosen up after a few tanks, they can lean out to the point of damage very quickly. My Timberwolf ran so well out of the box (ordered online) that it was flat scary. On that saw, the high needle was less than a 1/2 turn off closed. I have since bought a 620P and 600P(less than 2 yrs old & lean seized) that both carbs were set less than 1/2 turn off bottom. I think ideally would be a qualified dealer set the saw up before the customer takes it home. If you bought it online(or boxstore), I would set the high all the way counterclockwise to the end of the limiter travel, then start the saw and listen carefully. After 3 tanks, I would pull the muffler and look. I am also running 40:1 mix during breakin on the Timberwolf and 620P (new piston/rings).

WSE, can you see the "H" setting on your new 490 regarding the factory setting on the limiter travel ?
 
any way besides saving the pics of the cs 490 to make them larger? the one of the saw is big the others were a lil small to see detail.....
 
So back go this saw...I've got a CS-450p right now. Runs good, but I had pulled the muffler a while back thinking I was going to do a MM and see that the piston has some scoring. Decided I'd just leave as is, and put it back. I bought this saw used about a year ago, had been thinking I actually wanted a 500, but couldn't find a used one at the time, and didn't want to drop new money to see if I'd really like it.

Fast forward, some wood cutting, fence row cleaning, and TSI work behind me, I really like the saw, and was thinking strongly about my options. I have a couple bigger saws, a pair of Mac 610s that do all the larger work I need, but they're on the heavy, slow end of things for me, but seem to run forever.

Option 1...buy another 450, run my old one till it dies, and have a parts saw for things like the clutch cover, etc.

Option 2...buy the CS-500p like I wanted in the first place, and either keep this 450 til it dies, or sell it and get probably what I paid for it back.

Option 3...buy this new 490, and give it a run.

Other than having more plastic, is there anything performance wise that this 490 seems to be lacking over the 500?

Related question...if I go back to a 450, is there any difference now be wee the straight model and the P? Earlier, it seemed like the P had a better bar/chain, and a rim sprocket, but if I'm reading the website right, I don't see that difference now. Maybe a glitch in the info on the site, but they look the same.

Also been eyeballing a CS-670 or 6700, don't remember which, not too far from me on CL...thinking I may sell my 610s, and move that way. Looks like more saw for equal to less weight. How were/are those saws regarded for performance and durability?
Order a new slug for your engine do the muff modd and youl be happy with the saw
 
I hope the new owners of these 490's take serious heed to the multiple warnings about these carbs set too lean from the factory due to EPA regs. I understand the concern about warranty but as these saws loosen up after a few tanks, they can lean out to the point of damage very quickly. My Timberwolf ran so well out of the box (ordered online) that it was flat scary. On that saw, the high needle was less than a 1/2 turn off closed. I have since bought a 620P and 600P(less than 2 yrs old & lean seized) that both carbs were set less than 1/2 turn off bottom. I think ideally would be a qualified dealer set the saw up before the customer takes it home. If you bought it online(or boxstore), I would set the high all the way counterclockwise to the end of the limiter travel, then start the saw and listen carefully. After 3 tanks, I would pull the muffler and look. I am also running 40:1 mix during breakin on the Timberwolf and 620P (new piston/rings).

WSE, can you see the "H" setting on your new 490 regarding the factory setting on the limiter travel ?
Haven't checked the settings yet haven't even fired it yet. Yes I get plenty of echos that are lean out of the box but I also get some that are too rich and many that are right on. It's the lean ones that you hear about because they cause the damage.
 
Ok...point taken. How do we as consumers and non professionals learn to recognize the difference between a saw that is tuned correctly and one that is on that fine line between lean enough to pass EPA emissions and "ready to score"? Maybe my Timberwolf was tuned correctly out of the box and I am paranoid about all the hype. Is it customary for an Echo, properly tuned, to have the high needle 1/2 turn out from closed?
 
Yes the CS400 has clamshell motor which is rated for 300 hours same as any pro saw, I have nothing against clam shell motors except for the cheaply built ones that are hard to work on. Steve
Clam motors are also very universal scooters rc planes gas bikes yeah they are alright
 
Ok...point taken. How do we as consumers and non professionals learn to recognize the difference between a saw that is tuned correctly and one that is on that fine line between lean enough to pass EPA emissions and "ready to score"? Maybe my Timberwolf was tuned correctly out of the box and I am paranoid about all the hype. Is it customary for an Echo, properly tuned, to have the high needle 1/2 turn out from closed?
Experience is about the only way. If not modified in anyway between 1/2 and 1 full turn isn't uncommon especially in a warm climate. As soon as you modify one to breathe anymore whether intake or exhaust it can easily take another full turn.
 
Experience is about the only way. If not modified in anyway between 1/2 and 1 full turn isn't uncommon especially in a warm climate. As soon as you modify one to breathe anymore whether intake or exhaust it can easily take another full turn.
I concur. Lots of the new saws would prolly run good in Colorado but it sucks to know that ur running so hot that ur burning up ur engine and having so much lag when u sqeeze the trigger. I am so against the epa specs that il say phuck the warranty and set the engine up to run good and use more oil on break inn
 
Ok...point taken. How do we as consumers and non professionals learn to recognize the difference between a saw that is tuned correctly and one that is on that fine line between lean enough to pass EPA emissions and "ready to score"? Maybe my Timberwolf was tuned correctly out of the box and I am paranoid about all the hype. Is it customary for an Echo, properly tuned, to have the high needle 1/2 turn out from closed?
When i buy my cs500 the dealer let me it with 1 1/2 on the L and 1/2 on the H realy run like a ***** and don't want to idle good . With the tube on the mufleur removed , the flake on the intake removed , the fuel tank vent removed , block off the G-Force Engine Air Pre-Cleaner (and no air filter :p ) i run it with 1 3/4 on the L and 4 1/2 on the H for a beautiful brown spark plug
 
Yeah i love my echo clams i just wish they had aftermarket ignition coils for the cs360t that timing advance is slow but makes for easy starting
 
Experience is about the only way. If not modified in anyway between 1/2 and 1 full turn isn't uncommon especially in a warm climate. As soon as you modify one to breathe anymore whether intake or exhaust it can easily take another full turn.

Thanks for the info Jeff. I definitely got the warm climate covered where I am. I have the H opened up 1 1/4 turns with the muffler slightly modded. I think it's a little rich but I may be running into the coil limiter. I tached it at 11600 wot no load.
 

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