5x5x.250 square tube adequate for 20-30 splitter build?

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mcote1230

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I am currently in the process of planning a splittler build as a project this winter. I came across a 5"x5"x.250wall tube at work that is a little over 6' long. Do you guys think this is stong enough or should i find something with a thicker wall or maybe an H beam....?

I'm looking to use a 4.5-5" x 20-24" cylinder (pending what i find cheap(er))
I have a 11.5hp briggs engine from my grandfather i would love to use
Im debating a 16 or 22gpm pump


Any help is great! I did search a little for others using square tube and didnt see much...


Thanks!
 
LOL. Think again. Tubing is bad idea. Check my splitter build in my sig line below and see what I did. I used a 4x6 tube .250 wall. It's bent 1/4" out.

Go with a H beam. 8x21 is great for that size you're building.
 
What if i add a .500" thick x 7" wide plate to the top length to act as a guide for my wedge/pusher? This should help at some rigiditity to the tube, right?

I have a 3' piece of H beam I was going to weld towards the center of the tube to raise it up a bit.

If the concensus is to just got with an H beam, I will.
 
Be easier and cleaner to go with H beam. If you go with tubing use 2 pieces of 3/8 on both sides. So pressure is pushing on the edges of the 3/8 thick pieces. Not the flats. You can easily flex steel on the flats. But when turned on edge its very rigid.
 
LOL. Think again. Tubing is bad idea. Check my splitter build in my sig line below and see what I did. I used a 4x6 tube .250 wall. It's bent 1/4" out.

Go with a H beam. 8x21 is great for that size you're building.

well my splitter is built on a tube that is 7"x7"x1/4" and is 8'1" long and it has been in service for nearly 20 years with no problems what so ever. well i need a new love joy but that's it. also my tube is my resevior as well, i have no hydraulic overheating issues. so based on the performance of my splitter i feel confident in saying the proposed plan should work. LOL
 
well my splitter is built on a tube that is 7"x7"x1/4" and is 8'1" long and it has been in service for nearly 20 years with no problems what so ever. well i need a new love joy but that's it. also my tube is my resevior as well, i have no hydraulic overheating issues. so based on the performance of my splitter i feel confident in saying the proposed plan should work. LOL

Got pics of it? Would like to see how its constructed.
 
well my splitter is built on a tube that is 7"x7"x1/4" and is 8'1" long and it has been in service for nearly 20 years with no problems what so ever. well i need a new love joy but that's it. also my tube is my resevior as well, i have no hydraulic overheating issues. so based on the performance of my splitter i feel confident in saying the proposed plan should work. LOL

20 years is NOT enough for a fair test, sure it may still be straight but before you sign your name to it perhaps you should wait at least another decade or so for truer real world results:D
 
What if i add a .500" thick x 7" wide plate to the top length to act as a guide for my wedge/pusher? This should help at some rigiditity to the tube, right?

I have a 3' piece of H beam I was going to weld towards the center of the tube to raise it up a bit.

If the concensus is to just got with an H beam, I will.

We built 7 using 4" sq dtubing. Had to stiffen them up. solution. another 2" or 2 1/2" heavy wall square tube welded under it. When it comes to stiff, depth is far more important than flat plates welded to increase wall thickness.

Harry K
 
We built 7 using 4" sq dtubing. Had to stiffen them up. solution. another 2" or 2 1/2" heavy wall square tube welded under it. When it comes to stiff, depth is far more important than flat plates welded to increase wall thickness.

Harry K

Very true. Every inch adds a considerable amount of strength. 7 is significantly stronger than 5. I have bent a lot of things...
 
4x6 x.25 wall tubes,with a 3/8" x8"x7' top late, all welded in one assembly. Note the top plate is also plug welded to the beams every 10" or so
 
Got pics of it? Would like to see how its constructed.

not at the moment, but i could post some up easy enough.

Very true. Every inch adds a considerable amount of strength. 7 is significantly stronger than 5. I have bent a lot of things...
you're right. i never really thought about the size difference of the material, just the design.
 
In my search to answer that same question for myself I found some interesting info, first is this thread which shows the calculations for stress on a splitter beam:

New splitter ideas

The "section modulus" is the value we are looking for.
Here is a chart that shows wide flange or "H" beams:

American Wide Flange Beams

Here is a chart that shows rectangle beams:

Rectangular tubing chart

I chose rectangle beam because a rectangle with its narrow side up is stronger than a square beam of equal size but this rectangle tube calculator works for square tube too.

Engineering Section Properties: Rectangle Tube Calculator

All this assumes that the section modulus for a H beam and a rectangle tube are the same. They should be unless a tube is more/less resistant to bending force than a H beam is. My metal fabricator friend says tube is better for splitters than H beam and he's been doing metal fab his whole life.

Here is a hydraulic cylinder force calculator:

Hydraulic force - area formulas and calculator

Since a 5" ram is more common than a 4.5" one we'll assume you go with a 5" and also assuming a 12" tall wedge your section modulus to beat is 33.3 cubic inches.

the section modulus on a 5X5X1/4 tube is 7.16458, not even close to good enough.

Here are some beams to consider:

10X12X1/4" tube = 39.32 modulus 36.03 lbs/ft
8X10X3/8" tube = 37.69 modulus 42.79 lbs/ft
8X10X1/2" tube = 48.28 modulus 55.66 lbs/ft
6X8X5/8" tube = 33.56 modulus 51.80 lbs/ft
W8X40lbs beam = 35.5 modulus 40.00 lbs/ft

Now if you want to go with a 4X24 cylinder at 3000 psi you would have 37680 lbs of force against a 12" wedge which gives you a section modulus of 20.93 cubic inches so your 5X5 would still be way too weak.

As for your 11.5 hp engine, it is fully capable of running a 16 gpm 2 stage pump (8 HP min.) but a 12 hp engine is recommended for 22 gpm 2 stage pump.
 

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