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066blaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
That honey locust is some tough stuff. I have 2 cords split from that big tree I got. And have at least 1 more cord left to split. It's the only wood I have come across that will stop my splitter. The straight stuffs ok but any bend in it and it don't want to split.
And fun to cut live, with giant thorns, usually some ants if warm, and if yer lucky covered in poison ivy
WoodTick007
Addicted to ArboristSite
Was that welded with a 110v.welder?. Those welds were very cold and look like you caulked weld on the surface. You should have been surprised when it didn't fall off the first time you split something with it. Sorry to be so blunt....
aarolar
ArboristSite Operative
On top of the fact they are cold there is just not enough weld there for plate size. You need a minimum 1/2-3/4 fillet weld IMO.
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
iowa
Addicted to ArboristSite
LOL. My thoughts exactly.
Yep, I see all that as well. I don't think I got enough heat into it. The wedge its self shows crystallization at the failure point. except for 2 small areas the failure was on the wedge junction not the base plate. Base plate area weld was solid all the way down to the base material. I will increase the bevel for weld area on the bottom of wedge. It is about 45 deg. but was not large/ deep enough from what I see. Not a 110 welder, but was a wire feed unit-220v single phase 90amp AC, I will dig out the old Lincoln torpedo -220v-3ph think I can pull about 300+ amps on that- stick weld AC. Limitation being whats available from the shop line supply of course but I know I can make that unit just hiss when I have used it in the past. I have a old Miller dial arc 250 as well, 220v single phase -shop line power is limited on that but I can get DC from it vs the AC of the torpedo if that would be a better choice. Think I have 7018, 1/8" rod around might be 5/32 not sure. Wedge is just hot rolled steel not sure of numbers.
aarolar
ArboristSite Operative
Don't try and roll those 1/8 rods just go with a 3/32 and three pass it. In your situation I don't reccomend a bevel either it's going to just complicate the joint further. 3/32 7018 on about 70-75 amps and lay down three passes starting with the root then a weld right on the toe of the root tying the the first weld to the base then the third weld on top of the previous tying all three to the wedge.
Should look something like this in the end except only go to #3.
Should look something like this in the end except only go to #3.
As others have said , it looks like penetration was lacking and heat was a bit cold but it seems that wedge is pretty tall and lacks any real rear support. From the pics I can see you've got a pretty free flowing out feed table ...have you considered trying to add a gusset to the rear of the wedge? I say this because my dad's wedge on beam splitter pushed the cut edge off like this every couple years, all it took was a 10"x 5" triangle shaped hunk of 5/8" plate to back the wedge up and I was done rebuilding it in three year intervals . I know your wedge is on the end of the beam but something could be added to give it the needed support.
I'll let you work up this one if you want.
2 ft at the base with 11 inch thorns. I'll even let you take the thorns for starter wood!
To the OP. I normally grind reliefs and triple pass to ensure more contact, welded area. It is amazing that did not break earlier.
V'd out here
After the 3 passes.
Hasn't broke yet and I don't think it will.
So is a 110 welder simply incapable of proper penetration, or is it possible with the right settings/technique?
GrassGuerilla
Olympic Piss-reving wanna be.
I think I'd just leave that thing alone. Just looks like its ready to defend itself. 
ncpete
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opcorn:WoodTick007
Addicted to ArboristSite
Pretty much. . . no power and very short duty cycle. If that were mine, l would grind a bevel on the bottom of the wedge almost to the center. Then i would get some 3/16 6010 and 7018 rods. Run them at the upper range of the recommended heat settings. For wings you.have attached to.the back.of the wedge.... Grind them off, put.them in the scrap.pile and get some.3/8 x 2"x3" angle. To be.effective they need.to be moved forward.
Odog
ArboristSite Operative
There are two situations where good penetration is key, welding and sex
that is one mean locust.
Splitter has to go on back burner for couple days, no penetration to speak of on wedge.
Got caliper that is frozen on truck, and the drive shaft in the salter is bent- they want $120 bucks for the shaft + shipping for a stainless(?) rod with a flat on one end & bolt hole on the other. maybe 24" long. No way I am paying that much for 5/8 shaft that I can duplicate. Motor mount was tore in 4 pieces due to the bent shaft , brazed that back together to dang thin to try and weld for me - stainless again ($35.00+shipping) bearings seem ok at present, getting the auger off will be fun & require the assistance of the flame wrench.
Splitter has to go on back burner for couple days, no penetration to speak of on wedge.
Got caliper that is frozen on truck, and the drive shaft in the salter is bent- they want $120 bucks for the shaft + shipping for a stainless(?) rod with a flat on one end & bolt hole on the other. maybe 24" long. No way I am paying that much for 5/8 shaft that I can duplicate. Motor mount was tore in 4 pieces due to the bent shaft , brazed that back together to dang thin to try and weld for me - stainless again ($35.00+shipping) bearings seem ok at present, getting the auger off will be fun & require the assistance of the flame wrench.
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Pity is the only thing I have for the fella that tries to penetrate that hairy monster.
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