First Top Handle!

[Captain Bruce]

Here's another question for the expert mechanics.......in all my years of going thru an engine, I've never heard of "air leaks" being a problem. Apparently, chainsaws can develop leaks at the crank seals, with regular occurrence.....is this some sort of odd-ball problem, re-call issue, etc.........OR is it a very common problem? I've done leak-down tests on drag race engines...........yet never imagine a little 2-stoke engine could also develop such an issue. Search eBay for chainsaw air leak.....there's dozens of them!

 

[brian.b]

Just find a little homelite I had one with the trigger all the way forward ...not really sure on the model but you can usually find them around here in the junk yards.....Lol....

 

[Captain Bruce]

Thanks Brian...I am actually just asking for learned opinions from other tree service professionsals like myself.....as to the newer top-handle models. I am not sure how things work down there....up here in Michigan/Ontario, those little Homelites, McCullochs, Craftsmans, Poulans.....are considered pure junk, and useless. Whenever one is donated, by a picker or customer, I simply toss it on the scrap pile, and it goes to the junkyard. They aren't worth a pinch of coon sh*t. If there is a genuine market for these old turds, let me know where to send them........theres probably a dozen in the pile................................

 

[brian.b]

america was built by great men with great saws such as homelites ......

 

[Captain Bruce]

Someone has drank the Kool-aid.....nice suspenders. Anyway, I bought a NIBWT Jonsered so my top-handle questions have been answered. Thanks for all your help fellows, and Brian, your headlite is still on.....

 

[fearofpavement]

regarding the air leaks on saws, this is an issue because as part of the running process the crankcase get pressure and vacuum put on it as the fuel/air charge goes through it. If there are any air leaks, the saw will not run correctly because it can pull non carbureted air in, leaning out the mixture and causing engine damage.

 

[Captain Bruce]

regarding the air leaks on saws, this is an issue because as part of the running process the crankcase get pressure and vacuum put on it as the fuel/air charge goes through it. If there are any air leaks, the saw will not run correctly because it can pull non carbureted air in, leaning out the mixture and causing engine damage.

Thanks for your input; I was asking about air leaks earlier, soley because I see the term repeatedly, on eBay.....where Poulans, Craftsman, Homelites, and other junk saws, are vended. I put 2 and 2 together when I realized its only an issue for poorly designed engines. As to your providing an explanation, thanks again,.......I think that theory is already an understanding for any guy who took Shop Class.

 

[fearofpavement]

Well, it isn't an issue for poorly designed engines. It can and does affect any two stroke engine no matter how much it costs. Age and wear are the primary issues.

 

[Captain Bruce]

Well, it isn't an issue for poorly designed engines. It can and does affect any two stroke engine no matter how much it costs. Age and wear are the primary issues.

I understand completely; I'm a licensed small engine mechanic. Where this started was over in a thread "Jonsered vs. Husqvarna". I learned that the homeowner grade J-Reds and Huskys, are identical to/made in the same factory, and the low-end Poulans, etc. I was even shown parts break-downs from several like-minded mechanics....pointing out cheese-ball quality rubber donut seals used in the POULANS/J-REDS, and HUSKYS that are vended at the big box level. SO, to reinterate...poor quality, poor design. I see you are a Stihl collector, as am I. Thankfully, we don't face the air leak issue with the frequency of the $200 saw owners who "went to ACE".

 

[Captain Bruce]

Back to top-handles, I went the wrong way.........ended up with a J-RED 2238, learned it was not a good saw, sold it on CL, and am right back in this thread......with my hat in my hand. I still want to add a TH to my saws. I know the 200T's are $1000, and they are the best. I know the 192T's are $300 in good working order. I known Husqvarna and ECHO have acceptable, reliable units. Which other model #'s should I be looking into....used....on eBay?

 

[7sleeper]

I understand completely; I'm a licensed small engine mechanic. Where this started was over in a thread "Jonsered vs. Husqvarna". I learned that the homeowner grade J-Reds and Huskys, are identical to/made in the same factory, and the low-end Poulans, etc. I was even shown parts break-downs from several like-minded mechanics....pointing out cheese-ball quality rubber donut seals used in the POULANS/J-REDS, and HUSKYS that are vended at the big box level. SO, to reinterate...poor quality, poor design. I see you are a Stihl collector, as am I. Thankfully, we don't face the air leak issue with the frequency of the $200 saw owners who "went to ACE".

Would love to see some real life data on myth's like that! Do you really believe that or is this simply just a prejudice? Or is it the typical "mechanical" statement when a customer comes to a store to have his el cheapo repaired and the "mechanic" tries one start on the saw and already has the answer "dead engine" as to be expected from an el cheapo....
Further these el cheapos are sold dozens to one of the high collar brand names. Do you see the same amount in your experience come to your repair shop?

On every saw the problems of deteriorating rubber seals start after around ten years of use. Irrespective of brand and use frequency. Of course if you use a homeowner class saw everyday for ten years other problems will emerge first much earlier since they are not designed for such a large amount of work. And these are much more often. They are typically deteriorating fuel lines, screws in the plastic breaking out, etc. much much earlier than any donut seal. And that is what I have understood from years of comments from users here about saved saws irrespective of brand and quality level. The typical sentence is something like this "go to the small engine store and ask for dead saws. Store mechanic says dead saws are out back. Take a bunch home and they are wondersomely repaired by a new sparkplug and some new fuel lines...".

So no offense meant but I will not have anything repaired by you if you encounter your work with this obvious prejudice, because I could never expect a "neutral" assesment of the situation!

7

 

[bikemike]

Save your money and watch for a echo or husky top handle (go all orange or stay home)

My echo 360 t is a beast bit heavy bit lots of power for bigger hard wood up to 14inch. Mine was run hard at the mn gtg and all the stihl guys were very impressed with it at any rpm. Just get rid of the cat and tuning caps and break it inn at 40 to 1 mix for a bit. Youl like the 355t too

 

[bikemike]

There is a CS-355T in the Trading Post for $300. Looks like a nice saw....

Saw will run forever if tuned rite and not lean on oil nice balance with a 14inch on it

 

[bikemike]

Back to top-handles, I went the wrong way.........ended up with a J-RED 2238, learned it was not a good saw, sold it on CL, and am right back in this thread......with my hat in my hand. I still want to add a TH to my saws. I know the 200T's are $1000, and they are the best. I know the 192T's are $300 in good working order. I known Husqvarna and ECHO have acceptable, reliable units. Which other model #'s should I be looking into....used....on eBay?

Echo. My 360t smoked all other top handle saw at the gtg then i put my carlton chain on and it was like a razor blade the jello. The 192 and 193. Weak. Save yourself the headache and get the echo 33cc or bigger

 

[bikemike]

This is a break inn on a 360t with a chity chain with 14 inch bar

 

[bikemike]

Echo still on break inn

 

[big t double]

This is a break inn on a 360t with a chity chain with 14 inch bar

"I'm on my very.....third tank...."

 

[bikemike]

"I'm on my very.....third tank...."

The way i am it was the next best to the 200t. There is no replacement for displacement

 

[Captain Bruce]

Would love to see some real life data on myth's like that! Do you really believe that or is this simply just a prejudice? Or is it the typical "mechanical" statement when a customer comes to a store to have his el cheapo repaired and the "mechanic" tries one start on the saw and already has the answer "dead engine" as to be expected from an el cheapo....
Further these el cheapos are sold dozens to one of the high collar brand names. Do you see the same amount in your experience come to your repair shop?

On every saw the problems of deteriorating rubber seals start after around ten years of use. Irrespective of brand and use frequency. Of course if you use a homeowner class saw everyday for ten years other problems will emerge first much earlier since they are not designed for such a large amount of work. And these are much more often. They are typically deteriorating fuel lines, screws in the plastic breaking out, etc. much much earlier than any donut seal. And that is what I have understood from years of comments from users here about saved saws irrespective of brand and quality level. The typical sentence is something like this "go to the small engine store and ask for dead saws. Store mechanic says dead saws are out back. Take a bunch home and they are wondersomely repaired by a new sparkplug and some new fuel lines...".

So no offense meant but I will not have anything repaired by you if you encounter your work with this obvious prejudice, because I could never expect a "neutral" assesment of the situation!

7

Well put. My experiences with the homeowner-grade saws, have naturally been limited to brands built and vended to that specific market. I have owned 10 Stihls, from an 075AV / 48", down to several of the 017/170's. They certainly respond to maintainence, and regular servicing. When an old McCulloch, Craftsman, Poulan comes along........you are right......its usually suffering not so much from poor quality/design, but more to howmeowners excessive use. I don't service equip't to the frequency of a major shop. Therefore, I clearly have less experience with the issues that render a saw non-running. I'm more the guy who throws a carb kit, fuel lines, and pick-up at a unit........Thanks for setting me, and my comments, straight.

 

[Jon1212]

Thanks for your input; I was asking about air leaks earlier, soley because I see the term repeatedly, on eBay.....where Poulans, Craftsman, Homelites, and other junk saws, are vended. I put 2 and 2 together when I realized its only an issue for poorly designed engines. As to your providing an explanation, thanks again,.......I think that theory is already an understanding for any guy who took Shop Class.

Captain Bruce, huh? What are you Captain of? The Arrogance Society of upper Michigan. I'd strongly suggest you do a little more reading, and learning, and little less grandstanding, and spouting off on subjects you know little, or nothing about based on your ill conceived bias.
Also, when you ask a question, and someone obviously more knowledgeable than yourself gives you an answer, try not to be such a condescending wanker.