Harbor Freight Sawmill - does it exist?

[Chellejeff]

I'll try to get more photos up in the next day or so.

 

[hunterbuild]

See my post on 2-14-2012 for pic & more discussions.

 

[Chellejeff]

Nothing special about my setup. The mill is bolted down to concrete, leveled with trex blocks and wood shims. I'm putting a roof over it so I may be able to keep using it in the winter. I'm in a snow area of southern California. A local steel supply shop has 20' angle for $65 each, so I'm thinking about replacing the tracks. I don't imagine many of you have made triangle beams like the one on my mill in the pics. That's just the leftovers. The three pieces I cut off are what I used. I'm putting log siding on my house. The rest of that log will be cut to 1" boards and used to box in the soffits.


View attachment 257991View attachment 257992

 

[Dad2FourWI]

@Chellejeff

Did you cut the "wavy" siding yourself? ... and what exactly is it called??? I have heard people call it "skirl" and just plain "wavy edge"...

Also, what kind of wood is that siding cut from?

Looks _really_ nice !!! I like your setup!

-Dad2FourWI

 

[Chellejeff]

The type of siding is called lap siding because the upper board laps over the lower board. The stuff on the shop is "natural edge" lap siding. I did not cut this myself as I did not have a mill at the time the shop was built. The wood is just what can be had in the forest around here, primarily pine and fir. The work I'm doing is log siding, as shown in the attached photos. Included is the wall I'm working on now, and another wall of my house that is already done. All of my log siding work up till now has been cut with a Stihl 029 on a home made mill. The HF mill is a huge step up. No comparison.

Here is the front door of my house with the log work around it. It really changed the appearance of the house. Off to the far right you can see an area that had not yet been done. View attachment 258048

Here is the rear wall of my house where I'm just starting log work. I "dry fit" most of the pieces, then once I know everything works I take them down one at a time, finish all around, then put them back up. I use Big Stretch to chink the 1/4" gaps that I leave at every joint. View attachment 258049

 

[hamish]

Thanks for the pictures, I really like your setup, beautiful job on the house.

 

[Dad2FourWI]

"natural edge" lap siding

Thank you!!!!! I never quite knew what to call it.... and I am thinking that this is what we want on the cabin!!! Although I have to admit that your log siding is starting to make me rethink this.... <grin!>

Hey.... your work looks GREAT!!!!

What are you using to finish your log siding? Sealers/stains/etc....

How long were your logs drying before you cut them and did you dry the siding further afterwards?

Were those pics from this year... just curious since I saw the snow falling!!!!

Great ideas... and thanks for sharing!!!

-Dad2FourWI

 

[Chellejeff]

The logs I use have been laying in the forest for a couple years, so they are dry. Most of the logs have already lost their bark, or it is very loose and comes off easy. I pressure wash the logs to get dirt off and brighten them if they have grayed. Pressure washing is WAY faster than sanding and doesn't ruin the natural look of the log. I use Sikkens Cetol SRD (siding, rails, decks) natural color. I have been very happy with it. The photo with snow is from last winter. The photos of the mill and the wall with tar paper showing are from a couple days ago.

Lap siding makes much more efficient use of the log. With lap siding you can get several pieces out of every log. When making log siding with smallish logs (12") I get 2 or, if lucky, 3 pieces per log. I just happen to prefer the log look.

On the lap siding, it is advisable to cut two or three 1/4" deep grooves the length of the back side. This helps keep the boards laying flat on the wall as they expand and contract with seasonal changes. I recommend at least one coat of finish on the back side of the boards prior to installation.

Sikkens Cetol 1 and Cetol 23 are also a great finish. It is a 3 coat finish. Cetol 1 is the first coat. Cetol 23 is for coats 2 and 3. Clever the way the named it. Quite expensive though. Here it is about $50 a gallon, and becoming hard to get due to EPA restrictions. You know how us crazy Californians are. I can't wait till I retire in 3 years so I can get out.

 

[Dad2FourWI]

Thank you for the feedback!!

I have been hearing nice things about the Sikkens products... I have copied your info and emailed myself (so I won't loose it!<grin!>)

You know how us crazy Californians are. I can't wait till I retire in 3 years so I can get out.

Yea... I understand... Wisconsinites are not too far behind!<groan!> Hey, I hear that GMO Labeling topic is starting to "heat up" in Calif....

Many thanks,
-Dad2FourWI

 

[rrsaw]

Harbor Freight Mill

Hi new to the fourm.Just ordered my first mill.Its backordered till first of march.Will keep you posted win it comes.

 

[hunterbuild]

Hi new to the fourm.Just ordered my first mill.Its backordered till first of march.Will keep you posted win it comes.

I'm still having good luck with mine. I did order extra moving parts that I couldn't get local. Be prepared for chance of another back order, but it will come.

 

[rrsaw]

I'm still having good luck with mine. I did order extra moving parts that I couldn't get local. Be prepared for chance of another back order, but it will come.

Thats good to here. Looks to be a good saw from looking at videos. First thing ill check is the lifting screw and make a new one if need be.

 

[hunterbuild]

You will be able to tell right away. Mine had a spot in the middle you could feel it bind a bit. After a time it eats up the brass threads. If its not binding I think it will be ok. My new steel nut is still holding. I like the fix in the earlier post better though.

 

[rrsaw]

You will be able to tell right away. Mine had a spot in the middle you could feel it bind a bit. After a time it eats up the brass threads. If its not binding I think it will be ok. My new steel nut is still holding. I like the fix in the earlier post better though.

Yea i like the idea of just replacing the nut if possible. Do you know what thread per inch the factory screw is?

 

[hunterbuild]

It is an oddball, I had to have it custom machined.

 

[rrsaw]

It is an oddball, I had to have it custom machined.

OK Thanks

 

[hamish]

It is an oddball, I had to have it custom machined.

Its not an oddball, its just ACME threaded rod. Any industrial supply house (graingers, master carr and local guys) can get you acme nuts in steel,brass, nylon and a few other materials. They also over blocks that can be shaped to whatever you so desire.

 

[hunterbuild]

Mine was not. I checked it out with suppliers and a machine shop here before I found a machine shop to cut it. Maybe the new ones are different. I have a new one in the box. I will see if it's different.