Tonight I finally took a look at the C-51 that was dropped off to me a while back.
The starter would not catch very well. I took the cover off and it is the style that uses the over running clutch method. Two outer races with the one way clutch/sprag in the center.
I cleaned out the cover and used brake clean to spray and blow out the clutch area and then lightly greased it and reinstalled the cover and it seems to grab every time now. Is a light coating of grease OK on this set up?
The pull cord is very short and needs to be replaced. Is it possible to replace it without taking the recoil out? It kind of looked like it could be done without unbolting the cord retaining wheel?
Also noticed a red box under the cover that shows atom computer "Australia"? does this mean they upgraded the ignition? I have yet to get into any of this type set up so I am curious if this means the it has been upgraded.
I usually just go with a touch of light oil in that overrunning bearing setup. Sounds like you got it working though. The main thing is cleaning it out like you did every once in a while.
The Atom module is a common replacement for points in old saws. They have been sold under several brands, by several firms.
You can change the rope pretty easily.
-Cut the knot from the old rope (at the center of the pulley) and pull it out. Cut your new rope to length and melt the ends.
-Tie a knot in one end and thread it through the hole near the center of the pulley. Turn the pulley against spring tension until the hole (and the rope) is nearest the rope outlet passage on the starter.
-Work the rope out through the grove to the outside of the pulley, and pull it out until the knot is seated.
-Wind the rope onto the pulley, using the clearance notch in the edge of the pully to allow you to turn the pulley as needed without the rope binding against the starter housing. There's more than one way to do that I'm sure.
-I like to turn the pulley against spring tension as far as I can without straining or slipping (holding the rope tight up in the 'clearance notch' of the pulley to keep the rope from binding against the housing). That's usually one turn plus the extra bit needed to get the notch back to the possition near the rope outlet in the housing. I then move the rope out of the notch and rotate the pulley back out of tension, winding the rope onto it in the process. Once the tension's gone, I repeat the process. Usually only has to be repeated once to get the rope wound completely on, depending on how much I feel like fighting the spring.
-When the rope is wound all the way on the pulley (minus a few inches), I'll put it in the notch again and ease off tension until it's gone (or almost gone) and the rope is again alligned with the outlet in the housing. I'll snug the rope firmly in the notch and wind the pulley a turn or two against tension and thread the rope through the outet (while holding the pully still). Give 'er a test tug. You want enough tension to wind it all the way in and hold the handle against the housing, but not much more. The spring will live longer that way. Tread the rope through the handle and tie the not.
There you go. I could
much more easilly show you how I wind these ropes in. Using text is much more cumbersome.
As an alternative, you can also get all of the tension out of the spring, CAREFULLY remove the pulley without pulling the spring out "SPROING!!!!", winding the rope in by hand, reinstalling the pulley (get the spring tab to engage), then using the clearance notch to allow you to wind in a turn or two of tension. I've used both methods. Many times I replace the rope at the same time that I clean all the crap out from behind the pulley.
If you do "sproing" the spring, you'll need to carefully wind it back into the housing, winding from the outside in. It sucks and your hands will be cramped. Take your time, and rest during the process if you can. If the spring's completely out of the housing, then you might as well wipe it clean before fighting it back in....
A friend of mine has two very nice condition SUPER XL autos (red) The exteriors look to be in nice shape, hardly used. I asked him about selling them and he said make an offer. I think he said one locked up and then would turn over. Not sure on the cylinder. Both saws have all thier paint on them and have been well cared for as the exterior goes and look darn nice.
What would be a fair offer to him on these? I threw out $50 but said we could talk about it later. Saw him passing by and had to leave.
$50 is fair so long as the one of the saws has a good P/C. Pull the muffler covers and check. The 'locked' saw could have something else holding it up besides a bad P/C, such as crap (metal filings, screws, etc) binding the flywheel against the coil. You never know until you check...
The S1050 will haul chips all day long as long as your man enough to handle it! But I also forgot my ear muffs, and regretted it 3 hours later.
