Homelite Chainsaws

[fossil]

Before

After

This is the best that it'll look. It's gonna be a "run it like you stole it" GTG saw.


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Really nice job

 

[sawnami]

Thanks for the nice comments guys!

 

[Eccentric]

I can get them whipped up for you guys. I know you say the slot is 14 millimeters but if you could put a pair calipers on an actual slot so that we don't have clearance problems that'd be great. I don't have any other Poulan the only thing I have that's close is a 3400 to measure to make poulan adapter. Yes this will be for sale once I get them in production at work. This was just a prototype see how many saws it would actually fit since I measured a super 650 to make it.

The 3400 would be a perfect template for the Poulan (and small stud Homelite) adapter mockup. A 10-series McCulloch also has 5/16" studs, with the same stud spacing as the Poulan and early XL series Homelites, so that adapter could be used with them too. Minor adjuster and/or oiler passage issues may have to be addressed, but that's our problem (as we're the end users).

That reminds me.............I need to go out to the shop to check if the stud spacing is the same between large Homelite and large McCulloch saws. If so, then your 'rubber band' style 3/8" stud 12.1mm adapter will work on the Macs as well. Mike you are doing us a tremendous service with these.

 

[Eccentric]

Before

After

This is the best that it'll look. It's gonna be a "run it like you stole it" GTG saw.

Steve that looks fantastic! Great job.

I intend to do the same thing with my 2100-S this winter. I spy a Wright C-70 next to your Super 2100 in the 'before' pic. Those are also extremely cool 'GTG' saws. I always enjoy seeing and running the cherry original example owned by Atpchas (Charlie). Are you going to give yours the same treatment that you gave your Super 2100?

 

[sawnami]

Steve that looks fantastic! Great job.

I intend to do the same thing with my 2100-S this winter. I spy a Wright C-70 next to your Super 2100 in the 'before' pic. Those are also extremely cool 'GTG' saws. I always enjoy seeing and running the cherry original example owned by Atpchas (Charlie). Are you going to give yours the same treatment that you gave your Super 2100?

Thanks!

The Wright looks like it needs a P&C. I would like to get it going to check out how the manual timing adjustment lever works. The next saw will be a yellow one that I've had scattered for painting for about 5 years.

 

[cbfarmall]

Thanks!

The Wright looks like it needs a P&C. I would like to get it going to check out how the manual timing adjustment lever works. The next saw will be a yellow one that I've had scattered for painting for about 5 years.

You certainly notice when you forget to advance it after starting. It isn't really a timing adjustment so much as a starting detent--the only place in locks in is at full advance.

Chris B.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I've never found anything to touch up a saw with because of the fading, I guess you could just paint the whole saw. I painted a clutch cover and a starter assy. and it took three days to dry and they didn't come close to matching. I didn't use the International red though, just some red enamel I had. I guess I can go back and paint the rest of the saw...

Went back today and repainted the rest of the saw. I did kind of a quick and dirty paint job on it so it could look a lot better but it is the same color now.

 

[Definitive Dave]

any of you guys need a XL101 thru xl104 IPL?

just scanned it for another member before sticking the original on the bay, if anyone needs it , just let me know
Dave

shoot me a pm, as I don't check this thread often

 

[rarefish383]

I've been trying to find a way to put a big external air filter on my super 1050. I use it for milling and milling makes so much super fine dust I can't keep it out of the carb box. I was thinking about something like an XL98 concrete saw has. If I can find (or make) a 90* intake manifold, and turned my carb so it was sticking straight up, instead of back, would I have any trouble with it running, or tuning it to run? I would be runnig a remote throttle off a weed eater so the throttle cable wouldn't be a problem. With the carb sticking up I can easily fab an air tight box for it, Joe.

 

[Eccentric]

I've been trying to find a way to put a big external air filter on my super 1050. I use it for milling and milling makes so much super fine dust I can't keep it out of the carb box. I was thinking about something like an XL98 concrete saw has. If I can find (or make) a 90* intake manifold, and turned my carb so it was sticking straight up, instead of back, would I have any trouble with it running, or tuning it to run? I would be runnig a remote throttle off a weed eater so the throttle cable wouldn't be a problem. With the carb sticking up I can easily fab an air tight box for it, Joe.

You'll also have to incorporate an impulse passage in your custom manifold. If going to that trouble, you could make a 'straight up' intake manifold that replaces the current 90deg piece (rather than making a manifold to bolt to the existing manifold).

What'd be easier would be to tap the two holes on the choke end of the carb and attach a 90deg air filter manifold to the back of it. Many HL's and HC's (on chainsaws and other equipment) have those two holes tapped for air filter bracket mounting screws...

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I've been trying to find a way to put a big external air filter on my super 1050. I use it for milling and milling makes so much super fine dust I can't keep it out of the carb box. I was thinking about something like an XL98 concrete saw has. If I can find (or make) a 90* intake manifold, and turned my carb so it was sticking straight up, instead of back, would I have any trouble with it running, or tuning it to run? I would be runnig a remote throttle off a weed eater so the throttle cable wouldn't be a problem. With the carb sticking up I can easily fab an air tight box for it, Joe.

I think most chainsaw carburetors are made to run in any position because they don't have floats in them. Just fabricate a manifold that turns up and it should work. Don't forget the pulse hole or hose, whichever it has.

 

[rarefish383]

You'll also have to incorporate an impulse passage in your custom manifold. If going to that trouble, you could make a 'straight up' intake manifold that replaces the current 90deg piece (rather than making a manifold to bolt to the existing manifold).

What'd be easier would be to tap the two holes on the choke end of the carb and attach a 90deg air filter manifold to the back of it. Many HL's and HC's (on chainsaws and other equipment) have those two holes tapped for air filter bracket mounting screws...

Thanks Aaron, that was my first try. The 1050 I'm using has the longer carb, that's the HL, correct? It is tapped, and I have the 90* off a Zip that goes to the air box, and tried to use that. There just wasn't quite enough room, I did some filing on the Zip peice and got it to squeeze into the air box, but then I couldn't pump the oiler. My other 1050 has an SDC on it. That would work great, but that's the one waiting for the new P/C. I planned on sending that to one of our members for the rebuild, and I would have the new filter made for that one so it could be tuned the first time with the new filter. I've been doing more milling than I ever expected and I always find fine dust that made it into the carb box. I'm worried I'm gonna kill this one.The other thing is the 90* off the zip is a tad smaller than the 1050. The bolt holes match up but you can see a trace of daylight around the throat of the carb. I'm sure if I look around I can find a 90 that matches the throat or use a gasket that covers the gap. I just went down stairs and looked at the project saw. I have an NOS SDC I was saving for the rebuild. I guess I can replace the HL on the running saw with the SDC, that would solve my problems. Thanks again, Joe.

 

[rarefish383]

Thanks a p jr, that's the same thing Aaron said, and what I was thinking. I figured a saw will run in any position. I went down and checked the NOS parts I have for the rebuild on my other 1050. I think I've got it all figured out, if I switch the HL on the running saw for an SDC, I'll have the room to work with. I'll post pics of my Frankenfilter when I get it done, Joe.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

About the oiler - if you're running a mill you should set up an external oiler to drip directly on the chain. At the tip is typical. You can adjust the drip rate. Can also get a larger tank. Just don't need the saws oiler for that

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Thanks a p jr, that's the same thing Aaron said, and what I was thinking. I figured a saw will run in any position. I went down and checked the NOS parts I have for the rebuild on my other 1050. I think I've got it all figured out, if I switch the HL on the running saw for an SDC, I'll have the room to work with. I'll post pics of my Frankenfilter when I get it done, Joe.

I like the "customized" Frankensaws better than the stock saws in most cases. I'm working on one right now, it's a Homelite XL12 or Super XL, whichever...

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Got a question

The Homelite XL12 that I put together has a cylinder that has a three bolt muffler and a larger exhaust port than the XL12 has. I'm pretty sure it's a Super XL cylinder. I was wondering if the XL12 ever came out with that cylinder or are they all two hole mufflers and smaller exhaust ports. I know the reed valves are different also.

 

[Eccentric]

The Homelite XL12 that I put together has a cylinder that has a three bolt muffler and a larger exhaust port than the XL12 has. I'm pretty sure it's a Super XL cylinder. I was wondering if the XL12 ever came out with that cylinder or are they all two hole mufflers and smaller exhaust ports. I know the reed valves are different also.

Most XL-12's are the earlier style that you describe. Two screw muffler (or stack) and single 'flat' reed. I have an IPL for the late XL-12 "With Pyramid Reed System" and SXL-AO. It shows the same three screw muffler body (this one has the welded on heat shield) for both saws. Lists different cylinders and pistons, as the two saws have different bores. That IPL shows the same intake parts for both, and lists both the Walbro SDC62 and Tillotson HS179 carburetors for both saws (meaning each model could have had either). Crankshafts, bearings drivecases, fuel tanks, and oil tanks are different between the two models.

PM me your email address and I'll send you that IPL.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Most XL-12's are the earlier style that you describe. Two screw muffler (or stack) and single 'flat' reed. I have an IPL for the late XL-12 "With Pyramid Reed System" and SXL-AO. It shows the same three screw muffler body (this one has the welded on heat shield) for both saws. Lists different cylinders and pistons, as the two saws have different bores. That IPL shows the same intake parts for both, and lists both the Walbro SDC62 and Tillotson HS179 carburetors for both saws (meaning each model could have had either). Crankshafts, bearings drivecases, fuel tanks, and oil tanks are different between the two models.

PM me your email address and I'll send you that IPL.

Thanks for your reply. So I guess that my saw may not be a mixture of SXL and XL12 parts but could just be an XL12. Chances of that being the case are probably rare since I had a big pile of Homelite parts and just picked out some that fit it. I didn't run any serial numbers or anything like that. If fact it has two serial number plates on it, one on the back of the saw and the other on the side of the air box. I painted over both of them since they mean very little at this point.

 

[Eccentric]

Thanks for your reply. So I guess that my saw may not be a mixture of SXL and XL12 parts but could just be an XL12. Chances of that being the case are probably rare since I had a big pile of Homelite parts and just picked out some that fit it. I didn't run any serial numbers or anything like that. If fact it has two serial number plates on it, one on the back of the saw and the other on the side of the air box. I painted over both of them since they mean very little at this point.

That series was made for so long that it's sometimes impossible to know exactly what you have. IPL on the way.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

That series was made for so long that it's sometimes impossible to know exactly what you have. IPL on the way.

Thanks for the IPL, Aaron. It was about what I expected, like many of the companies trying to save a little money Homelite and the rest kinda intermingled their parts. I have another strange thing I noticed, the manual oiler on the XL12 somehow is oiling the bar automatically. It has the oil tank fill in the rear so shouldn't it be manual only?