Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
How do I get a SXL 925 flywheel off without a puller?
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
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it [rem s770] has carter carb, was wishin it were tilly, as acres says. thx, tho.
Failing making one, I find a steering wheel puller like this one works great. You will need to find an assortment of machine screws that fit the starter dog holes.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
I don't have access to u channel metal.
I'll try the steering wheel puller if I can find one.
I'll try the steering wheel puller if I can find one.
A harmonic balancer puller may be easier to find. No need to buy a good one. A cheapo model will work fine for chainsaw flywheels.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
My local autozone should rent either tool. I will check sunday morning while I am on a nuts n bolts run. I'm at least happy with the progress I made today. Got 2 saws repaired and running(minus a bar for one).
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
What I can get with my phone and the cyl still on.
I've found Pioneer and Homelite FW's very stubborn in some cases. The only way I was successful was using the steering wheel puller. The screws are a # 12 into the flywheel pawls IIRC.
One wheel still took a few hours to let go even after some penetrating oil and heat.
One wheel still took a few hours to let go even after some penetrating oil and heat.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
I'll bring the screw with me so I can find a bolt. Any special length I need? I'll also start adding the oil to help.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Flywheel is off. Any guidance on taking the rear handle off now? Then it should be clear to the cylinder?
It is going to require some disassembly to remove that cylinder. Carburetor, intake block, reed, muffler, oil lines, flywheel, ignition/coil/back plate bracket all need to come off. Here is an IPL and a link to the shop manual.
Homelite Manuals (New and Improved!) Grab the 5th Edition. The 925 is cover in section B-23. These are good repair manuals IMO. It covers the complete disassembly/reassembly, the ignition, carburetor etc.
Leon's has the nice, clean IPL's. http://www.leonschainsawpartsandrep...per_xl-925_chainsaw_ipl_24831_revision_3_.pdf
I don't have any of the 82 cc versions, only the 77's. I like them a lot. If you are going in that far and end up putting it all back together, a pair of SKF 6119 seals would be a good idea.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
The carb is off, the muffler is off, the rear handle is off, flywheel is off, the ignition is off. Anyone know a PN for the tool to remove the clutch? It's a two prong from what I can tell.
I have had good success taking a couple of over-sized allen keys and just grinding them down (long side) until you can stuff them in those two holes. With the piston blocked and the back plate for the FW side crank in place, take a claw tooth hammer and hook the claw under the back key and the neck of the head on top of the front key as tight to the face of the clutch as you can - keeps them from bending. You might need to ty-rap the keys where the 90 degree bend is to keep them from spreading too much. With the saw on the floor, I lever the clutch off turning clockwise. Pretty easy with the leverage from the hammer. Other fellows clamp the keys (or like) in a vice and turn the power head off of the clutch.
The reverse process puts them back on. I prefer not to hammer the tar out of the clutch with a drift.
The reverse process puts them back on. I prefer not to hammer the tar out of the clutch with a drift.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Back plate? Whats that?
THat's the plate that holds the seal and the bearing (and the coil attaches to) under the flywheel. I'm not sure why you would take that off in the first place unless you were changing the bearing or removing the crankshaft.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Thank you, I thought there was something else I was missing. If the saw is repairable I might remove the plate to change the crank seal. But first things first. With the rear handle off now what else do I need to do to get the cylinder off and how do I do it?
There are 4 nuts at the base of the cylinder that you need to remove. Then carefully pull the cylinder off. Make sure you have all the grunge cleaned off so nothing falls inside the crankcase. Don't let the piston bang into anything.
A tip. when you pt it back together don't get ham fisted with the plastic carb adaptor, they are easy to crack if you crank the screws down too hard.
You don't need to remove the back plate to change the crank seal, just leave it in place and pull the seal. You should change the seal if you plan to get it running again.
Sorry, you are not removing the back plate. The back plate has a screw through to the cylinder. Make sure that is removed, was what I was implying. You can change the seals with it in place. Four nuts and you can tap the cylinder loose.
Edit: I see Tim has you covered.
Edit: I see Tim has you covered.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Thank you both!
