Homelite Chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Ginger,

I've found it very helpful if you look carefully at the IPL to see what needs to come off when you are talking a saw a part the first time. If something is stuck, have a look at it and make sure you've pulled all the bolts, oil lines and parts that you need to.

If you feel the job is complex, take some pics of what you are doing so you can refer to them when it goes back together.

We have all found things that won't come apart because we forgot to remove something. If you get to a point where you are stumped, you know there are lots of guys here to help.
 
Everything went smoothly. Cylinder is off. I never forced anything :D Cylidner is SMOOTH on the inside. Piston has ridges you can feel when dragging a nail. Scotch brite pad to the cyl and new piston? I'll grab pics soon, I need to eat and calm my nerves, hah.
 
New piston would be good. I f the rings are not scored or stuck you could take any ridges of the scoring and run it. Make sure there is no aluminum transfer from the piston on the cylinder. If you can salvage the piston and clean it up a bit, you can always look for a replacement if you like the saw.
I have an XL-76 I did that to and has 185 psi of compression and runs fast. It bugs me that it's not right though.
 
Rings are not stuck. Slightly scored maybe? Uploading photos to a hosting site at the moment. I'm not sure how to tell if there is transfer, color?
 
Ginger,

Some 925's had the 82cc 2-1/16" P&C replaced with 2" 77cc P&C's. As undee70ss said, measure the piston you have and see what it is. By the rings in the pic I would guess it's 82cc. I see some damage on the rings and the piston doesn't look good.

Rings are not stuck. Slightly scored maybe? Uploading photos to a hosting site at the moment. I'm not sure how to tell if there is transfer, color?

Feel the inside of the cylinder everywhere the piston rides including the "fingers" between the transfers for any build up of aluminum from the piston.
Using a fingernail helps. If there is any, remove it so you have a smooth surface.
 
Give me about 30 minutes and I will get that info. I figured the piston and rings were past use.

EDIT: 2.058"
 
Feel the inside of the cylinder everywhere the piston rides including the "fingers" between the transfers for any build up of aluminum from the piston.
Using a fingernail helps. If there is any, remove it so you have a smooth surface.

I can feel some alum now using a fingernail. Will it scratch off or do I need something a bit more coarse?
 
I don't have access to those tools he uses except the sand paper. :crazy: Sure would be nice though. Just hand sand it?



This is the pad correct?

What about using normal sand paper? Small town so no Emory cloth here. I do have a dremel with a sanding bit but unsure of the grit.
 
The infamous "Wiggshone". I use that for finishing. 320 grit on a dowel works well to agitate the caked aluminum and isn't going to come close to eating any plating..., unless there is already damage to the plating, of course. That obviously presents a different set of considerations altogether depending on the rarity of the cylinder and where in the cylinder the plating is damaged. I use a piece of 3/8" aluminum hydraulic/brake line with a slit cut into the end as a mandrel and welder's aluminum oxide paper chucked into a plain ol' variable speed DeWalt drill. Dremel with a sanding flapwheel works too. Just hafta be careful around the ports with the smaller approach and those high RPM's so as to not damage plating where it transitions to bare aluminum. And I use the red Scotchbrite. More coarse, but still leaves a nice finish. Use a rag or old piece of Scotchbrite as a stuffer and wrap a good piece around it for a snug fit in the cylinder. Can go through a piece fairly fast with open port cylinders. And I just fit the whole roll of paper on the dowel for convenience. Gets a little floppy, but stays put and ya can just tear away the used end section for new/clean paper instead of cutting and re-attaching a new fresh piece. Can also obviously cut strips of sandpaper or emery cloth in the grit of choice from a sheet if that's what's available. Blow the cylinder out real well with compressed air and then wipe with oil and a clean rag when finished.

0213171320a_resized.jpg
 
No red pads avail here. Only green.

I'll pick up some 320 sand paper and then glue it to my dremel bit like a flapwheel. I'll also get the stuff to do the scotch brite pad.
 
They didn't have as big of scotch brite pad as in your photo so I'm having a hard time getting it to wrap around the eye bolt and not catch on the edges of the cylinder.
 




Does it look like the plating has come off on the edges? I havent sanded anything yet, I was just about to start and noticed.
 
A little bit of wear-through there, yes. Go easy and in the direction of the thin areas, not against it (if that makes sense). Reverse your drill for doing the opposite side. You should be able to make that amount of transfer disappear fairly quickly using some 320 and some patience. Then you can size things up more accurately regarding the plating wear and any verticals (gouges) that may play into the situation..., particularly above the ports where the rings travel.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top