I built this one from a box of parts. Does that count?
Lordy that's purdy, I need some lotion now.
Huztl MS 440 Initial Impressions, and Build
- Thread starter EB Saw
- Start date
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Lordy that's purdy, I need some lotion now.
EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
I guess it is a 440, I'll accept it
raumati01
ArboristSite Operative
EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
No, Huztl is Farmertech, Farmertech is Huztl
Plus, Huztl kits are a third of the price and aren't colored that hideous orange
regarding the knock off chainsaw. Farmertec stated out doing business as farmertec in 2006. When they decided to do retail, they needed to keep things neutral and not compete with wholesale customers so they only sell as the name Huztl on ebay and on www.huztl.net. That means when you see someone advertising farmertec it is one of their customers. That ad says neither
there are many other people and companies that do business and make knockoff chainsaws, that's not one of theirs. Farmertec actually buys a saw disassembles it and sends it to a mold factory. one mold like for the MS660 fuel handle can cost close to $20,000 to duplicate because it has so many parts. Other people doing that are not so interested in getting it right and the parts are not close to durable.
Hope that helps you.
there are many other people and companies that do business and make knockoff chainsaws, that's not one of theirs. Farmertec actually buys a saw disassembles it and sends it to a mold factory. one mold like for the MS660 fuel handle can cost close to $20,000 to duplicate because it has so many parts. Other people doing that are not so interested in getting it right and the parts are not close to durable.
Hope that helps you.
EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
Okay so i figured out the carburetor and tuning issue, It was the carb throttle butterfly and idle screw. I decided to get another Chinese one off amazon and my god, she runs better than my Fully OEM Stihl ms 441, the throttle response is precise and crisp and i could actually adjust the idle, It runs perfectly, i think i paid 13$ with free 2-day shipping, worth every penny. Really makes running this saw enjoyable. It only took me 30 seconds to fully adjust carb, perfect!!
this is the new carb with its adjusting screws
this is the old carb from huztl with its idle adjust screw which doesn't work well.
this is the new carb with its adjusting screwsthis is the old carb from huztl with its idle adjust screw which doesn't work well.
I've seen this arm bent on a couple of their carbs. Sounds like what you had. It was bent so far that the idle screw had no effect.
EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
yes, that is exactly what i had happen, must of been a fluke or something, but i am just glad i solved the issue.
Mac&Homelite
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hmm, interesting. Now I'm going to have to look at my carb. I haven't spent any time tuning it, but I know my idle on the 361 carb hardly seems to work, and my high jet gives a terrible squeak whenever I turn it. May end up getting another carb to try out, will look into it this weekend.
EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
I have been working out the kinks on the saw, I found the decompression button to be unreliable, the button its self may have no issues it is just the button and the glue that is used is crap, i am sure if i were to glue it on with proper adhesive it would work fine but for a little money i just bought OEM, As well as the fuel tank vent, I tested the tank and found it holding vacuum, not good, so i ordered an OEM vent for the fuel tank and put it on. I was able to easily pull air through the new vent with my mouth but couldn't pull anything with the huztl vent that came on the tank. I don't know if it was a faulty one, but it did not work at all. Other than that i tuned it a little rich on the high speed for break in, and am going to get a days worth of cutting in on Friday and will do a report of the performance Friday night.
dswensen
ArboristSite Guru
Hmmmm ....
I have been wondering about the decomp button on mine. My saw starts easily, runs great and has excellent throttle response. BUT I haven't had a chance to put it in wood yet - so I don't know about the available power under load. I use two proven compression testers and only read around 90PSI. If I push the decomp button - no start, which might prove that the compression is lower than is should be.
My kit came with a plug bolt for the decompression port, as well as the button valve. I'm going to try installing the plug bolt and see if the compression comes up.
I have been wondering about the decomp button on mine. My saw starts easily, runs great and has excellent throttle response. BUT I haven't had a chance to put it in wood yet - so I don't know about the available power under load. I use two proven compression testers and only read around 90PSI. If I push the decomp button - no start, which might prove that the compression is lower than is should be.
My kit came with a plug bolt for the decompression port, as well as the button valve. I'm going to try installing the plug bolt and see if the compression comes up.
I doubt your saw would even start with only 90 PSI.
EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
I'm thinking if your cylinder was anything like mine, put a degree wheel on it and check squish and go from there, those are two main and very important pieces for an engine to run well and strong, i don't know that much about 2 strokes but compression and port timing is very important, it is like trying to run a four stroke engine with a wrong camshaft the valves are never going to work with a wrong camshaft, and in a two stroke the cam shaft is basically the port timing. I think!!
dswensen
ArboristSite Guru
Yep, what you and Brad said. Time to re-check my compression gauges, cause she runs and idles pretty darn well.
She won't start with the compression release open though - that's weird isn't it?
She won't start with the compression release open though - that's weird isn't it?
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
Have read lots of issue with huztl decomp valves. I wouldn't worry too much about compression until you plug it and run a tank or two and check again. The sleeve sealing issue discussed earlier has me confused. I thought that sleeve was for the alignment of the oiler gear and has nothing to do with the crank shaft to case seal. The red seal and it's metal cup is the sealing component for both sides of the crank and case...or have I missed the boat on the basics of how these seal?
The bleed ports in the Farmertec decomp valve are way too large and there are two of them. Makes it hard to start.
Sized for a MS880?
I would not use the aftermarket valve on a bet.
Sized for a MS880?
I would not use the aftermarket valve on a bet.
Yep, boat set sail without you... Stihl calls that piece a bearing spacer. It adapts the crank to the inner diameter of the seal. Without it a saw wont even start.
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
Are you saying that your 440's bearing spacer rides inside the clutch side's crank seal?
