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Ahhh now it all makes sense. You kinda have to break it down for me because i havent a clue what half of this stuff is you guys are talking about ha.
I really appreciate all the advice fellas. I would probably run this saw like it is if I didnt find this site, then Id probably be thinking the saw is worthless.
tomorrow i will begin the process of finding the proper bar and chain. Not sure my dealers carry used but maybe online if nothing else like one of you mentioned.

My brother is running a 28" on his saw. is that too big? some of you mentioned my setup would be perfect for his.

weedkilla i have no idea what you're talking about in here...
Essentially the cog on the clutch drum needs to match the pitch of chain. At the moment your clutch drum will match a 3/8 chain. There are two types of drive, known as rim drive and spur drive. Spur drive has the cog cast as part of the clutch drum and rim drive has a replaceable sprocket on the spline coming off the clutch drum. To replace a sprocket is cheap, so hopefully it is a spline drive sprocket set up. If not, check the wear on the spur drive. You can post some photos once the clutch cover, bar and chain are off and we will help.

adkranger
the guy was definitly helpful. he checked the compression, blew off the filter and started it up and was even going to replace the fuel filter for free but the filter looked good.
He mentioned he had an aftermarket bar there for $40 but that was a 20". I'll find out if he has a used 18.

Back to what weedkilla was saying that makes no sense to me, does this mean I'll have to change more than just the bar and chain?? I have to replace the cog or drive or something too??
 
Only if you changing the pitch of the chain. If you want your bar/chain/sharpening stuff to be interchangeable w/ur brother, you may leave it 3/8.

Some of us who are tall prefer a 20" so we don't have to reach as much (bend over), even it we don't intend to use the full length of it often. See if your dealer (who seems pretty good) has some saws set up w/various bar lengths and pick them up and see what U think (or if UR brother has other saws). FYI, 044s are good w/20, 24 or 28' bars. They are really nice saws. I keep a 20" on one and a 24" on the other.

Good luck with your saw, you made a good choice.
 
fmrMarine said:
Back to what weedkilla was saying that makes no sense to me, does this mean I'll have to change more than just the bar and chain?? I have to replace the cog or drive or something too??
Click to expand...

Only if you want to change to a chain of different pitch. There are some good reasons to do so, but if you can get a cheap 3/8 bar.....meh.

What you need to know is that at some point the chain is driven from the engine. This occurs at the clutch, on the outside of the clutch drum.
There are two different ways to do this, and how easy it is to swap depends on which type of drive is on your saw. I'm going to leave it at that, if you want to pull off the bar and chain and take some photos then I can probably explain a bit better. It's stuff you'll work out sooner or later, so don't stress.
 
If you remove the B/C, clutch cover it will make sense. Weedkilla is correct, the sprocket will have match the chain pitch. A "Rim" type sprocket is simplest, cheaper to replace...literally a couple minutes and a couple bucks. The rim is a separate piece from the clutch drum. A "spur" type sprocket is part of the clutch drum(all one piece), so to change/replace requires removal/replacement of entire clutch drum. Not any more time, but will cost a bit more to replace. Again this will make sense when you look at it. With the vintage of your saw (early-mid nineties by my WAG) it could be wearing either one. I remember seeing them on the selves new wearing either depending on dealer setup. I'm guessing since it's currently in non-standard 3/8s, it'll be converted to Rim type sprocket too.

Changing your saw back to .325 pitch not as important as replacing that ridiculously long bar. It is simply a recommendation. Stihl does produce 3/8s picco micro chain that has a slightly reduced cutter and would work on you saw. Again, 20" would work, just that 16 or 18" would be better....even for bigger wood because the saw will be operating more efficiently. Of course us East Coasters cut primarily hardwoods and exclusively for firewood ops (sugar maple, beech, oak, etc). Too much bar, too many cutters buried in the wood for the power of the saw and you will notice reduced performance. I realize guys out west sometimes cut many softwood species for firewood that we don't, so you may (depending on wood species) be able to get away with a longer B/C combo.......confused yet? If your dealer is local he should know what your local needs are. You can always come back here with more questions or clarifications.
 
fmrMarine said:
weedkilla i have no idea what you're talking about in here...
Essentially the cog on the clutch drum needs to match the pitch of chain. At the moment your clutch drum will match a 3/8 chain. There are two types of drive, known as rim drive and spur drive. Spur drive has the cog cast as part of the clutch drum and rim drive has a replaceable sprocket on the spline coming off the clutch drum. To replace a sprocket is cheap, so hopefully it is a spline drive sprocket set up. If not, check the wear on the spur drive. You can post some photos once the clutch cover, bar and chain are off and we will help.
Click to expand...
weedkilla says when you pull the clutch cover it will make sense. I'll try to add some clarity. The space between the teeth on the gear sprocket has to match the space between the drive teeth that are on the *inside* circumference on the chain. You might be thinking they are all standard but oh, no....
My son in law has an echo saw. 17" bar I seem to recall. (It's been a while) He trashed his chain by digging with it. (Don't ask) He ordered a new chain from Wally World. Thought he was getting the right chain, but when he went to install it- lo and behold, it went on the bar ok, but it didn't seem to fit right into the sprocket at the bar end. He asked what I would do and I told him to pack it back up and return it to Wally World. What did he do? He tried to run it. How long do you think that chain went around before locking up?
Once you get the cover off and see what's going on in there, you will say, "Well...Duh." Nice find on your saw. I was just about to post a similar thread, but you beat me to it and certainly got these guys to offer up a great amount of advice I would never have known. Now I can go about and look for my saw..

chris
 
OK now it's all making sense. I'll post some pictures up after removing the bar and chain and we can go from there:)
Ironworker, I will definitely pm you. Hopefully shipping cost is low ha.
 
ok guys check it out! I took off the clutch cover and bar and chain. It was pretty dirty so i cleaned it up a little and here is what it looks like.
Also i noticed inside kinda behind those 3 springs it's still pretty dirty. Do you suggest removing stuff further and cleaning more or should i just leave it??
I wouldn't mind cleaning it further, just need to figure out how to take the rest of it apart. and what is that hairball looking thing??? it looks like it was a rubber washer or something at one time? or maybe someone tried cutting there hair haha:ices_rofl:
also thers some numbers on the bar...bar chain 001.jpg bar chain 002.jpg bar chain 003.jpg bar chain 004.jpg bar chain 006.jpg bar chain 007.jpg bar chain 008.jpg
 
fmrMarine said:
ok guys check it out! I took off the clutch cover and bar and chain. It was pretty dirty so i cleaned it up a little and here is what it looks like.
Also i noticed inside kinda behind those 3 springs it's still pretty dirty. Do you suggest removing stuff further and cleaning more or should i just leave it??
I wouldn't mind cleaning it further, just need to figure out how to take the rest of it apart. and what is that hairball looking thing??? it looks like it was a rubber washer or something at one time? or maybe someone tried cutting there hair haha:ices_rofl:
also thers some numbers on the bar...View attachment 365453 View attachment 365454 View attachment 365455 View attachment 365456 View attachment 365457 View attachment 365458 View attachment 365459
Click to expand...
Good deal, that is the before mentioned rim sprocket set up. Easy to swap out. The "fur ball" indicates that saw attempted to eat a rope or twine or similar. Make sure to remove all that mess from clutch area. Blow out with compressed air as much as can. Dental picks work well to loosen caked on crap from crannies, old tooth brushes good too
 
thanks adkranger. I'll try to get all that crud cleaned out. just so happens i have some plastic dental picks for cleaning my pistol.
I'll put a socket on that nut and try to take that last plate off with the three springs on it so i can clean around the oiler or whatever its called.

you said its a rim sprocket. which part is the sprocket that i'll need to swap out exactly??
Just to clarify, I only need to swap this out (rim sprocket)if I'm changing the chain from 3/8 to .325 correct? otherwise I wouldn't need to?
 
Yes, the sprocket that drove the chain, under the c clip, but only if you change the chain to non 3/8. Also check the width of your drive links, usually they are .050, but not always. Your chain, bar & sprocket must match.
 
That last thing with the springs is the clutch and has a reverse thread and you have to lock up the crank by stuffing a rope thru the spark plug hole go to you tube and look up clutch removal.
 
If you are changing the rim sprocket let me know so I don't waste my time shipping the 3/8 16" bar, not that mind, but if you are going with the 3/8 it's not a problem.
 

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