Ich tried square chisel

[24d]

No matter what it takes, I'm gona learn to file better with sq and goofy =
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=60037&highlight=goofy

 

[belgian]

+1

Now I usually touch up my chains with a file if in the woods, and if they are beyond a touch up, or its the end of the day they go on the grinder.

I recently acquired a stihl USG grinder. Anyone known what type op grinding wheel would you recommend for square filing ? Those square filed chains look really mean and I sure would love to try one...

 

[TwinTurboRam]

Nice looking grinding job there TTR.

Thanks Frank, I was fortunate enough to have a good teacher

Belgian, I use a white or blue stone.

 

[belgian]

I don't think you are going to be able to do it without the Stih USG Square grinding accessory. With the accessory after the grinding wheel is brought down.......the whole assembly that holds the chain pivots about two tenths of an inch towards the grinding wheel. I have yet to meet anyone that has this attachment, even a lot of Stihl people are not familar with it. Mine is 18 or 19 years old.


Note the handle on the base plate with the chain hanging on it and the diamond wheel dressing stones mount on the head. This handle gets pushed to the left.

Thanks Dan. I do not have the SG accessory you mention of course... durn it. Just had hoped I needed only the right wheel.

I am not looking forward to try SG filing by hand :help:

 

[24d]

Frank

Can we have a picture of the file on the chain and what is the angle the bar is tilted?
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62553&d=1199989961
Thanks,

 

[Crofter]

Frank

Can we have a picture of the file on the chain and what is the angle the bar is tilted?
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62553&d=1199989961
Thanks,

My chain clamp is tilted forward so the file is horizontal. This is a good reference. I also have it elevated about tits high so the file stroke is a natural sweep of the arms. The file in the pic below is not as I would hold it because I have the camera in the other hand. The view is just about as it would be when filing so you can see the amount of hook you are putting on the side cutter and the corner of the tooth and file corner are looking right at you. Just seemed easier to me than filing down at the chain. I am sure that there are many other ways that people have adapted; that is just what I taught myself. The chain vise is mounted on a two inch ball and socket so can be swivelled or tilted any angle.. For rakers I would put it flat. The clamping mechanism is an eccentric on a lever and is instant grab or release. I usually advance the chain for each tooth and always work at the same spot. There is another thread here not too long ago where I tacked on some additional guides and reference marks to aid keeping angles consistant.

 

[24d]

I usually advance the chain for each tooth and always work at the same spot. There is another thread here not too long ago where I tacked on some additional guides and reference marks to aid keeping angles consistant.

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62336&d=1199835502

Thanks Frank, I bumped that picture up it was a few pages back. What is the angle that the clamp is tilted forward?

 

[Crofter]

That would depend on the angle you are wanting to put on the chain or match on an existing one. Factory square might be near 40 deg and I hit for something around 30 deg. Basically it allows the file to be horizontal which is kind of a natural angle to return to from tooth to tooth. Blunter angles for a stout work chain and more slender for a faster but delicate chain. Kind of like comparing a cold chisel with a wood chisel.

 

[24d]

Do you change the angles on the side as well or just the top?

 

[Crofter]

The angles really are so tied together, you cant change just one separately. If you tilt the file more down and back you have to make a slight change in rotation to keep side plate hook the same and a top view would indicate the top plate outside angle had changed too. The built in angles of the file dictate a lot of the obtained angles on the cutter. On a grinder you can dress the stone angles to change just one or two cutter angles independantly. With a file, you choose the ones you think most important and accept the others that happen. Easier to show than explain. Do you have your files yet?