gcsupraman
ArboristSite Operative
It's on the website....haven't seen one in person yet.
Just noticed it has the easy start
Let me see how I make out with the MS200 and will go from there - Im trying to hold out in hopes of a 241C M-Tronic
-Greg
Modding the new MS201T - The truth inside
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It's on the website....haven't seen one in person yet.
Just noticed it has the easy start
Let me see how I make out with the MS200 and will go from there - Im trying to hold out in hopes of a 241C M-Tronic
-Greg
RES
ArboristSite Operative
I learned something today about how to advance timing. It was mentioned that you file the key as much as half the thickness. i assume that is done on the portion that engages the flywheel. Is there any danger that the flywheel may shift later? How is it normally done, file, dremel tool?
rymancm
ArboristSite Operative
That is correct. Only file the portion that engages the flywheel and leave the bottom part that sits in the crankshaft full width. My method was to seat the key in the crankshaft, mark the side with a razor blade, then put the key in a vise and hand file (i think the key is hardened but you are removing so little that a file works fine) down to the mark on the side and across to the desired thickness (ie: 1/3, 1/2 etc.) I don't believe the flywheel will shift once it's bolted down but someone else may know better. An offset key would solve the shifting question but i don't know if one is available.
They are. I saw one at my dealer's place about 10 days ago.
On a good tapered friction fit the key is only as an indicating guide to line things up. The key does not stop rotation at all if everything is made correctly
RES
ArboristSite Operative
I would hate to hack up a new saw just yet by modifying the muffler and carburetor, but I would not mind advancing it a bit. Do you think I would gain any benefit by just doing the advance without the other modifications. The thing that bothers me the most is the flat spot that I experience when applying throttle at a moderate rate. If I apply throttle quickly, it seems to skip over the flat spot.
rymancm
ArboristSite Operative
I would not advance the ignition without removing the carb limiter first. I fail to see how a small hole in the muffler and a small neat trim of the clutch cover is hacking the saw up, especially when you benefit much improved throttle response and nearly a 40% gain in power. All you're doing to the carb is drilling out a small rod. It really depends how much you dislike putting up with a saw putting out that much less power than it should be.
RES
ArboristSite Operative
OK you have me convinced to make the modifications. Of course the warranty goes out the window for whatever that is worth. Is there any concern that a modified saw will not last as long as a stock saw? At present the procedure that I use to adjust a carburetor is to start with the factory recommendations for the L & H screw setting. I then adjust the idle for smoothest. I then adjust the H screw for maximum RPMs. At this point I richen the H screw until it begins to four-cycle and then slightly lean the H screw. If the throttle response is poor, I would then richen the L screw a bit. Would you follow the same procedure for a modified saw? Also what diameter hole did you drill in the muffler?
F250Hank
ArboristSite Lurker
Do you think you could work the same magic on the MS362?
ipkyss
ArboristSite Lurker
A couple things I haven't mentioned here.
The 201T is limited to 13,350. I never actually saw that will revving the saw, but that's what the tach recorded as max RPM. I only saw 13,200 or 13,200. It's tuned well past the limiter, so tuning in the wood is required. I tune it rich, and then slowly lean it out, cut after cut, until I'm comfortable where it is.
The 201 is torquier, or has a wider powerband, than the 200. The 200 doesn't like to be pushed on as much as the 201. The fastest cut times with the 201 were always with a heavy load. I'd love to put one of these in a full time arborists hands and get there feedback. Matter of fact, I'd like to do so with one of those that previously said they were crap.
And to the person that said their mechanic modded the muffler, retuned the carb, and that it made no improvement and throttle response was 1-2 seconds..............I say bah humbug
After talking to my guy again. He said he pulled the screen but didn't mod the muffler. Retuned it. And the gains were not worth voiding the warranty on the same. My 201t is sitting in the shop not being used as no one want to use it. I am not trying to dog the saw. I'm just upset with the saw for the money spent compared to my years of 200t and 020 use.
To the guy that compared the 201t to an echo. That is exactly what ever person that has picked mine up said including the boss that has been cutting for over 40 years.
PM me your address. I will gladly ship you my saw with a check for the work to be done and return shipping. The point of my original post a few weeks back was to get someone out there to dig into these saws and get them working.
Smittysrepair
ArboristSite Operative
I have seen some of Brad's work and I believe he could modify anything to run better.
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Funny what motivates a guy sometimes. Tell me a saw doesn't run good and what do I do, I go buy one, lol.
Pulling the screen on the 201 does not open a hole in the muffler like it did on the 200. You're still left with one tiny hole, and must drill another in the side to make a difference. Once you do that, and retune, it'll run like a 200 with the screen pulled. Advancing the ignition timing makes as much difference, making it pull well ahead of a 200.
ipkyss
ArboristSite Lurker
I also want to say that my saw is no where near what the saw in your first video is. The response from mine hot is like that one is cold. And I mean before you started to play with it. I am looking forward to see what you can do.
dts99
ArboristSite Operative
so my 020t has finally had enuf, i want to buy the 201t and do these mods, im really unsure about the timeing and the limiter. the last couple of pics is that the pin that needs to be filed down or the limiter , im a decent mechanic but have never attempted to mod a carb on a saw, i had never even heard of it till i started researching this saw, mufflers sure no problem but can you post a pic of what and where to file down?
Bought a near new 201t off CL this weekend and just did the mods earlier tonight. Went 3/8" inch on the muff mod, and filed about half the key away. Don't know how many degrees that is, any guess??? I'm eager to see how it runs tomorrow at work. I still think the throttle response is a little crisper on my 200t when comparing the two in each hand, but it's damn close. I'll see what I can do with the tuning.
While I love the 200t, this saw looks like a better designed and built machine. Hopefully the carb problems don't carry over. I see they have went back to conventional seals instead of that bakolite crap. I'm now wondering if those 201t seals will fit a 200t.
While I love the 200t, this saw looks like a better designed and built machine. Hopefully the carb problems don't carry over. I see they have went back to conventional seals instead of that bakolite crap. I'm now wondering if those 201t seals will fit a 200t.
I hope it runs good for you. The biggest tip I can give on the tuning is to tune the L quite lean. If you don't, it'll stutter and possibly even die when you blip the throttle after idling a bit. Lean out the L and it will quit this. The H has to be tuned in the wood, like any rev limited saw. What makes it hard is that the limiter kicks in pretty early on these, making it very hard to make sure you're not into the limiter, thinking it's 4-stroking.
porsche965
Addicted to ArboristSite
Lot's of wisdom in what he just said. Especially in the caution concerning the limiter kicking in early. Mine seems to come on around the 13,000 range, way early. But tuned accordingly they really run well, especially this one from Brad.
I did tune it lean, but back it out a little as it didn't seem to restart well. I'll get it dialed in tomorrow at work in the log pile. I like to get my saws warmed up fully before doing any serious tuning. The limiter does seem to kick in fast. Any idea what advance I made by removing half a key way's worth?
Somewhere between 8°-12°. I use a degree wheel to fine tune where I want it.
