Need a bigger saw...suggestions

[MattNH]

I have a husky 235 with a 16 inch bar. Soon after getting it home I started suffering buyers remorse. The saw is too small for what I need. So I know I need a bigger saw, but I don't know much about saws. After reading some posts it seems that I am in the right place to ask for advice.

I will use the saw for cutting down trees as well as cutting firewood to size. What should I be looking at and should I only consider new? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[blsnelling]

What kind of wood? How big? How much/often?

 

[MerchBanger]

090

 

[mdavlee]

660 or 390/395xp for falling and 880 or 3120xp for bucking.:help:

 

[jropo]

A ported bb 660 might do ya but if I was you I'd just go straight to a Alky. bb 3120!!!!



[video=youtube_share;NGIjj_v8Otk]http://youtu.be/NGIjj_v8Otk[/video]

 

[MattNH]

hickory, maple, oak, and some pine...as far as how often?

That's a tough question - as often as possible. Realistically to cut 10- 15 cords or so per year.

 

[mdavlee]

New a 365 would be a nice compliment for bucking and falling to go with the 235. A 555 would be a nice saw for a 20" bar to do everything.

 

[Guido Salvage]

hickory, maple, oak, and some pine...as far as how often?

That's a tough question - as often as possible. Realistically to cut 10- 15 cords or so per year.

As with any question, the more information that you provide the better we can assist you. What is the diameter of the wood? Your saw needs will be different if you are cutting 16" trees rather than 28" trees. Longer bars take larger power heads to pull them efficiently in hardwood.

How many hours a day will you run it? Over many hours weight can become an issue, especially if you are constantly leaning over bucking logs. What types of dealers are in your area? You will want to find a brand that has parts and service available on a local basis.

The only way to determine if a saw is right for you is to personally put it in your hands. I would recommend visiting your local saw shop(s) in the morning and pose your question to them and handle the choices they give you. It might even be prudent to rent examples of the saw prior to purchase to see if it fits you well and actually meets your needs so you do not end up with a second mistake.

You have not given us any clue as to your budget or whether you are looking for a new or used saw. Obviously, a professional grade saw will cost more, but it will actually last longer and not require frequent replacement, making it cheaper when amortized over time. Keeping the 235 as a limbing saw to save your back will put you 2/3 of the way towards completing your 3 saw plan.

 

[ratso]

from 235 to midrange

A 70 cc saw will work perfect for you.

 

[wyk]

Since it's a 235, I'll assume you got it at a box store? Return it immediately if you can. That is a $200 or so saw. If you can stretch your pocketbook to $300, and put up with a used saw in good condition, I am sure someone here can sort you out quickly.

 

[zogger]

Narrow it down. How much do you have to spend, and what good local dealers do you have, what brands?

Ideally, what you will read here eventually is that you will need a "50-70" two saw plan for general east coasdt firewood, very broadly speaking.. $tart$ to add up. You already have one pretty small saw, so you'll need something that will pull a 20-24" at least if you are going to be felling, and not be ridiculous doing it. That's a guess on my part though, but I have cut a ton in new england before.

And like the other guys said, what size of trees are you into most of the time. diameter, species, that sort of stuff. Really makes a difference if you are cutting 12 inch stuff, 24, 36", see?

edit: I just took a peek at the classifieds here. One seller has several larger huskies at fair prices, I would imagine any of them could work for you. And there are others.

It's like rides, what ya got to spend helps a lot in figuring out the best deal for what you need.

 

[Beaver eager]

Nothing smaller than a Husky 455 or Stihl ms290 in a mid range saw. Pro saws require more money but advantages are to be had and less likely to have buyers remorse. Stihls are cheaper and alot of people say better which is of course always a debate. A nice 60cc pro saw would be enough to tackle anything here in New Hampshire you would want to wrestle with. Shop around both Husky and Stihl camps and see what they have for a price out the door for ya. Maybe even keep that little saw for limbing stuff once in a while if $ is not an object and return it is it is.

 

[DarkTimber]

I'd check the classifieds here for a good deal on a used pro saw. I haven't looked in a couple of days but there are some good deals to be had. For firewood I prefer 60 to 80+cc saws a good Stihl 036 044 046 064 or Husky 262 272 372 385 288. If I could only have 1 to do it all out of the ones I have it would be a toss between the 372 and the 385 remember a large saw can do the work of a small saw but it will not work real well the other way around. This is just my 2 cents worth based on my personal experience.

 

[user 64030]

As with any question, the more information that you provide the better we can assist you. What is the diameter of the wood? Your saw needs will be different if you are cutting 16" trees rather than 28" trees. Longer bars take larger power heads to pull them efficiently in hardwood.

How many hours a day will you run it? Over many hours weight can become an issue, especially if you are constantly leaning over bucking logs. What types of dealers are in your area? You will want to find a brand that has parts and service available on a local basis.

The only way to determine if a saw is right for you is to personally put it in your hands. I would recommend visiting your local saw shop(s) in the morning and pose your question to them and handle the choices they give you. It might even be prudent to rent examples of the saw prior to purchase to see if it fits you well and actually meets your needs so you do not end up with a second mistake.

You have not given us any clue as to your budget or whether you are looking for a new or used saw. Obviously, a professional grade saw will cost more, but it will actually last longer and not require frequent replacement, making it cheaper when amortized over time. Keeping the 235 as a limbing saw to save your back will put you 2/3 of the way towards completing your 3 saw plan.

Nothing smaller than a Husky 455 or Stihl ms290 in a mid range saw. Pro saws require more money but advantages are to be had and less likely to have buyers remorse. Stihls are cheaper and alot of people say better which is of course always a debate. A nice 60cc pro saw would be enough to tackle anything here in New Hampshire you would want to wrestle with. Shop around both Husky and Stihl camps and see what they have for a price out the door for ya. Maybe even keep that little saw for limbing stuff once in a while if $ is not an object and return it is it is.

Both these post provide good honest advice IMHO. If I had to have only one saw, I would look in the 60cc range, one that is rated to pull a 25" bar. In reality that will let you buck any tree less than 4' if you had to do it. I do not know the Husky or Dolmar equivalent and both are good saws. In Stihl I would go for the MS362 (or used the older MS361) they can both pull 25" b&c but really shine w/ a 20" which is all you'll need for 90%+ of the cutting you'll likely do.

You see folks talk about the 2-saw plan (above is the 1st I have seen anyone mention a 3-saw plan). That refers to a light ~50cc and a not so light 70cc saw. In Stihl that would be MS261 and MS441 M-tronic - you'll thank me latter if you choose that over a standard MS441 or the MS460.

dw

 

[TK]

10-15 cord per year?

555/365. Both around $600. Both great choice. For most firewood jobs, the 555 is perfect. Lightweight, fuel efficient, good power. For larger jobs/bigger wood to tackle, the 365 will shine a little bit, but it's a little heavier. Even the 570 would do very well for your needs, but with the latest advancements in the 365 it doesn't really fit very well in the lineup as it's just a heavier option to the 365.

 

[WidowMaker1]

660 or 390/395xp for falling and 880 or 3120xp for bucking.:help:

my kinda thinking brother ...only the best will do !!

 

[Jon1212]

Oh you're gonna need a 6 cube saw for sure............LOL!!!


Actually without knowing your budget I'm just gonna throw out 40cc's for limbing and such, and 70cc class for the other stuff. Go reputable brand on whatever you get, and you'll get more saw for your money on used, but you'll sacrifice the warranty option. Brand support is also important.

 

[jropo]

my kinda thinking brother ...only the best will do !!

Ya, but if ya run into the bigger stuff ya might wanna try one of these.



[video=youtube_share;vPP3rgClmnY]http://youtu.be/vPP3rgClmnY[/video]




Mind you that I started out w/ a Lil' Homey' XL-2 Auto. I thought it was fine until I found this site, so lets just cut to the chase!!

 

[Guido Salvage]

You see folks talk about the 2-saw plan (above is the 1st I have seen anyone mention a 3-saw plan).

I passed that stage long ago. I now have backups to the backups to the backups to the backups.....

 

[JPP]

hickory, maple, oak, and some pine...as far as how often?

That's a tough question - as often as possible. Realistically to cut 10- 15 cords or so per year.

Matt, I cut about 10-15 cord of oak and hickory every year. I bought a Stihl 441 (70cc), and it has served me extremely well for 3+ years. I have some decent sized oaks on my property, and there is nothing the 441 couldn't handle yet. Great saw! I haven't used my 260 for 2 years now.