New Chainsaw buying advice?

[Zane]

Hi folks,
I am looking for a new chainsaw as my Sachs-Dolmar 116SI just died according to my local repair shop which also mentioned that getting new parts for it would be next to impossible and expensive if they could find them.
I dont know much about chainsaws other than basic maintenance. I had my Sachs for 12+ years and my dad used it hard for ~8 yrs or more before that. My usage is firewood; 4-6 cords year and other misc use.
The saws I am considering (and seem comparable to my old Sachs) are:
Stihl MS310
Stihl MS390
Stihl MS361

Husky 359
Husky 365

My local repair shop is a Stihl dealer, so I am leaning that way, but am a bit confused between the Pro line and the Home Owner/MidRange line of Stihl saws. Is there a true difference?
I really want something that will last the 20+ years like the Sachs did. I appreciate any advice.
BTW, this is a great site...very informative!

Thanks,
Zane

 

[Lewis Brander]

Hello Zane.

Hello Zane and welcome to the site. I would say that if you are comfortable with your Stihl dealer go with him, but get a saw large enoug to handle what you want to do. I'm sure that the Stihl people here can advise on what saw to get, or do a search to see what comments have already been made. Good Luck. Lewis.

 

[spreaderman]

look at the stihl 260 which is the replacement for the 026.... it is lighter easier to use and cheaper than the ones you mentioned... in the stihl line the odd numbers are more for homeowners use and the even numbers are more for pro use, or more every day use..... do a search on 026 at this site and that will tell you ALOT

 

[spreaderman]

also on the pro line , that is just some options they put on there that you will rarely use .. like the decomp button on the 026 pro... there MIGHT be a time you would use it but not much...

 

[Lawn Masters]

Of the choices you have mentioned, I've heard lots of good things about the husky 359, and 365, plus the Stihl MS361, which is the replacement for the 360/036.

 

[glens]

Howdy Zane.

The old Stihl "rules" of odd/even numbers and orange/white rear handles are not sure anymore.

The saws with orange (or black, on the really small ones) rear handles are "homeowner" models without a doubt.  As you're only using a saw a few hours a year they really should do you well.  The construction of those models is for the most part modular, with a complete engine assembly bolted into a plastic chassis.  They're evidently nearly as expensive to repair major components as to throw them away and buy a whole new saw.  If you get one (and you should not rule them out) you'll be trading a little money up front on a gamble that you won't need major repairs (and you just may not!).

With Stihl's "pro" saws (typically a white rear handle) the construction is the "conventional" method of integral, metal, vertically-split crankcase/chassis with a bolt-on cylinder.&nbsp; The exception being the MS270/280, which have the same type of horizontally-split engine as the "lesser" models, though not a bolt-in unit on these two.&nbsp; The "pro" style construction (as shared by the two Huskies you mentioned) has a cylinder/piston that can be replaced in a matter of moments.&nbsp; In short, the "pro" model Stihls are made to be easier to service and are a bit less costly to do that on.&nbsp; With them you're paying more up front for less down the line, in anticipation that you <i>will</i> rebuild it a time or two since you use it every day.

The weight of the MS310/390 are the same because they're basically the same saw with different engine units inserted.&nbsp; The Husky 365 also weighs about the same.

The MS361 and the Husky 359 weigh about the same as each other and about a pound less than the other models mentioned.

I prefer the Stihl saws for a few reasons, but for the most part they don't pertain to a single-saw scenario.&nbsp; So I'm not going to tell you to not consider the pumpkin-looking saws.

Perhaps the only thing I'd say in warning about the Huskies is the 359s in the recent pipeline seem to have undergone an emissions-related revision and can be a bit finicky.

Okay, I'll say it:&nbsp; my vote is for the MS361.

Good luck and keep us in the loop.

Glen

 

[Zane]

Thanks

All - Thanks for the replies and info. I used the search function on the site as recommended and lots of good reading about the 260. It seems a little smaller than I was thinking of, but I need to put my hands on it first before ruling it out. Maybe I dont need as big a saw as I think I do. Any idea how the 260 would compare to my Sachs 116SI?

Glen,
I really appreciate the detailed description of the Stihl homeowner vs pro line. I'm more inclined to spend some extra money up-front to spend less later, so the 361 sounds like the ticket. Will let you know what I end up with.

thank you,

Zane

 

[spreaderman]

Don't underestimate the 260 like you said, I have cut 32" trees with my 026. You will enjoy the lighter weight..... After a break in carb adjustment and a muffler mod you won't take nothing for it.

 

[Rivet Watcher]

Firewood Getter

STICK WITH DOLMAR. THIS ONE WILL GIVE YOU CHIPS YOU CAN SHOVEL RIGHT IN TO THE BURNER. : :jester:

 

[glens]

Zane, if you're going to consider the MS260, I think the differences between the "standard" and "pro" model are the compression release and an adjustable oiler which pumps only when the clutch is engaged as opposed to whenever the engine is running on the "standard" model.&nbsp; Admittedly, the compression release might be unnecessary on that saw, but the oiler <i>may</i> pay for itself given enough run time.

There was a recent thread "Which saw to get" where I expressed some opinions about saw design in post #39 that you might read.

Glen

 

[wizzard]

Hey Rivet Watcher thats a might fine saw, but where in the hells the kick starter.>???/

 

[Zane]

Glens,
Thanks..I was wondering how the adjustable oiler worked. Pretty much think I will go with a Stihl as my local repair shop is a dealer and he has always treated me well. I plan to go in this week and look at the 361 and the 260. I notice that they make a 280 also. Is it as well made as the 361/260?

Zane

 

[sedanman]

Glen, The oiler on the 'base' ms-260 is clutch driven as is the 'pro' model. The earlier pre s/n x25 809073 026's base or pro, had the crank driven oiler.

 

[a_lopa]

i think what glen is getting at is one model stops oiling at idle on the 26,a good feature for us wonderful tree monkeys,it saves our lifeline from getting oily.although i dont have one so im only guesssing :umpkin:

 

[sedanman]

The difference in which 026/MS260 oils at idle and which ones do not is NOT BASED ON WHETHER IT IS A PRO MODEL OR NOT. It is based on production date, hence the serial number cut-off.

 

[crash/banger]

Get a dolmar 7900 awesome saw............CB

 

[Molecule]

another difference 260 v 260pro

the carb on the 260 (regular) comes with adjustable high and low speed jets

the carb on the 260pro (costs more) comes with an adjustable low speed jet, and the high speed jet is fixed

go figure - pay more get less

maybe stihl is changing this ... at 50cc the compression release is a maintenance nuisance -- the adj oiler is nice, but at the price of getting a fixed jet carb -- eeeyaow, there go even simple muffler mods to open up the flow and cool down the degrees (every 10 deg drop supposed to double the life of an engine ...)

 

[a_lopa]

The difference in which 026/MS260 oils at idle and which ones do not is NOT BASED ON WHETHER IT IS A PRO MODEL OR NOT. It is based on production date, hence the serial number cut-off.

well which one stops oiling???

 

[glens]

Thanks, Paul, for the update on the oiler.&nbsp; What's the current situation on the carbs?&nbsp; I'd heard that some time ago both models had gone back to the "fully" adjustable unit.

Zane, I can't answer your question about the MS280.&nbsp; It appears to me that they are as well-made, but they have a vertically-split engine where the entire cylinder down to the middle of the crank is one piece.&nbsp; It may make it a bit easier to get at the main bearings if that's ever necessary.&nbsp; I recall that they seem to be a bit "roomy" for the engine size, but aren't too heavy, really.&nbsp; The jury's still out on them as far as whether or not they're "pro" quality.&nbsp; I can't say as I'd buy one but that's mainly because I don't need a saw that size at the moment.&nbsp; I can't say as I'd rule them out, either, but that's purely conjecture.&nbsp; At 3/4 lb lighter than the MS361 they might let you last a little longer slinging them around if what you're doing is mainly limbing.

I've said for some time now that for a one-saw man, the 036 (MS360) was the perfect choice, and the MS361 which replaced it is by all reports better in every way.&nbsp; I may be able to give you a first-hand report on one any day now.

Glen

 

[sedanman]

aussie lopa, The NEWER saws have the clutch driven oiler and only oil when the clutch is engaged. Older saws had crank drive oilers and oiled whenever the engine was running.

Glen, I'm not real sure on the carb situation. I stockpiled a lifetime supply of adjustable 026 carbs and never paid too much attention to the saws on the shelf. Truth be told, I haven't even looked at the carb on my 361 and I am almost embarrassed to admit the muffler is still stock.