New member, first post, first chainsaw

[ckelp]

imo at least you'd would't crying as your throwing a piece of plastic away after you'd made a mistake. all that i'm saying is that get the feel of cutting down before dropping some coin on a saw like using the top of the bar.. hell if your my neighbor i'd let you barrow a small saw to learn on..
take it from a guy who lean his first saw out.


hears one i found around me. i had one survived my brother borrowing it
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/1980483979.html

 

[meatwagon45]

I bought my MS 290 about 3 years ago and I love it. Starts easy, plenty of power, and easy to control for the size. Mine has the 18" bar. I've dropped about 150 trees (upto 30") with it without problem. I think it is a good saw.

 

[jimdad07]

Just hold the saw properly, pay attention to where the tip of the bar is, and you should be fine.

Very sound advice. If you've never run a saw before, try to meet up with some members out your way and do a little hands on training. I can tell you from very recent experience that watching where the tip of your bar is is about one of the most important things you need to do. Don't be ashamed to use PPE either, you can look like a dork and still have all of your limbs and a face without chainsaw tread all over it, or you can look really cool while you are cutting your leg off from your first good kick back.:angrysoapbox:

 

[madhatte]

A 361 with a full comp round file chain is a good way to go.

That's exactly right.

 

[sawkiller]

I personally would buy the Husqvarna 55 in the trading post if I needed a saw in your situation. You will be much better off learning on that one than breaking, tearing up, blowing up or running over a 4 or 500 saw with any name on it. The bad/good part is if you take care of it you most likely will not have an excuse for a new one any time soon.

 

[wendell]

Absolutely make sure you include PPE in your budget. Labonville chaps are a great choice, at least steel toe boots and a helmet system with face and hearing protection.

 

[adder31]

Very sound advice. If you've never run a saw before, try to meet up with some members out your way and do a little hands on training. I can tell you from very recent experience that watching where the tip of your bar is is about one of the most important things you need to do. Don't be ashamed to use PPE either, you can look like a dork and still have all of your limbs and a face without chainsaw tread all over it, or you can look really cool while you are cutting your leg off from your first good kick back.:angrysoapbox:

Funny you should say that, I am already down one leg due to an IED in Iraq, so safety is paramount. SWMBO would kill me if I get hurt again, so I plan to buy boots, chaps and definitely a forestry helmet w/ ear and eye protection. My days of being a tough guy are over, and there is no shame in wearing PPE.

If the sale price is right, I might get a 362. If it is 10% off with some throw ins, it will be hard to pass up. Other than that, a 391 with a 18" bar, or even a 290 would be ok.

Thanks for the heads up in the trading post, but I HATE buying gear blind.

 

[jimdad07]

Funny you should say that, I am already down one leg due to an IED in Iraq, so safety is paramount. SWMBO would kill me if I get hurt again, so I plan to buy boots, chaps and definitely a forestry helmet w/ ear and eye protection. My days of being a tough guy are over, and there is no shame in wearing PPE.

If the sale price is right, I might get a 362. If it is 10% off with some throw ins, it will be hard to pass up. Other than that, a 391 with a 18" bar, or even a 290 would be ok.

Thanks for the heads up in the trading post, but I HATE buying gear blind.

With what you have been through over there, I don't think anyone can call you a sissy, even if you buy pink chaps. Glad to see you made it back home and are able to sit here and talk to all of us. Thankyou for your service.

BTW, I think you have some good saws there to choose from.

 

[slowp]

We are in Warshington the State. We call "helmets" hardhats. The current fashion style in this area is the full brim. Then glasses and earplugs. That way you can tell if your chain is dull using the stinging face method. If your face is getting thumped by stinging chips and it hurts, the chain is sharp. :greenchainsaw:

For bucking up trees out here we like longer bars. Longer bars let you stand farther away from the tree, and you aren't as likely to get your head taken off or thumped if you misjudged the bind, (spring) of the log. It has nothing to do with manliness, all to do with practicality.

 

[adder31]

By longer bar, do you mean 18" and above?

 

[banshee67]

By longer bar, do you mean 18" and above?

judging by his location, id say by longer bars they mean 28" and above :greenchainsaw:

 

[banshee67]

Funny you should say that, I am already down one leg due to an IED in Iraq, so safety is paramount. SWMBO would kill me if I get hurt again, so I plan to buy boots, chaps and definitely a forestry helmet w/ ear and eye protection. My days of being a tough guy are over, and there is no shame in wearing PPE.

If the sale price is right, I might get a 362. If it is 10% off with some throw ins, it will be hard to pass up. Other than that, a 391 with a 18" bar, or even a 290 would be ok.

Thanks for the heads up in the trading post, but I HATE buying gear blind.

thank you for your service to our country, and to the people of iraq. without guys like you in this world we wouldnt have a chainsaw forum to bull#### on!

i say if you go the non-pro-saw route, go all out and get the 391! you wont be kickin yourself in the ass 3 months later wishing you had in the first place! 55cc or 64cc, they can both hurt you!
im with you on that, if im going to make a substantial purchase on something i really like, id usually rather put out the extra money and get it new, especially since everytime i try to work one one i do more bad than good, but thats another story :greenchainsaw:

 

[adder31]

Alright, I found a shop that has a new 361, 20" bar, extra brake. Only downside, no wrap around, for 549.95 on sale.

Should I pull the trigger? I'm thinking yes.

Oh yeah, 1/2 off on a case and free hat, not bad. Since it is a sale price, they cant throw in too much extra.

 

[banshee67]

Alright, I found a shop that has a new 361, 20" bar, extra brake. Only downside, no wrap around, for 549.95 on sale.

Should I pull the trigger? I'm thinking yes.

Oh yeah, 1/2 off on a case and free hat, not bad. Since it is a sale price, they cant throw in too much extra.

extra brake? what do you mean
do you really need a full wrap handle? or were you looking for the salesmen to actually administer a wrap around after purchase, ima little confused ?
either way, $550 for a 20" 361, brand new, thats a great deal!

 

[adder31]

Salesman said it has an extra brake in the handle.

 

[j.williams]

A 361 C-Q with 20" b/c is a good deal for that price. If you need or want a wrap handle & dual dogs heres the part #1135 007 1007. A couple of pics of what mine looks like:

 

[banshee67]

oh ok, the "Q" version, or whatever they wana call it
it has a secondary chain brake on the top side of the throttle
might not be a bad idea if you are a new user,most people dont want it, its also an additional feature that costs a few more bucks

 

[madhatte]

Hey Adder -- I have a 361 wrap handle that needs a home. I'm in your neighborhood, more or less. PM me for info.

 

[COLD_IRON]

Alright, I found a shop that has a new 361, 20" bar, extra brake. Only downside, no wrap around, for 549.95 on sale.

Should I pull the trigger? I'm thinking yes.

Oh yeah, 1/2 off on a case and free hat, not bad. Since it is a sale price, they cant throw in too much extra.

The case does not work with the wrap bar. A 20 and 25 inch bar is also very nice, of course the 25 incher will require a 84dl skip chain

The 361 is a nice, versatile saw that handles pretty well and delivers quite a bit for it's size. They also work great in pairs.

 

[Anthony_Va.]

Thats a good price on a new 361. Some like the extra brake and some don't. I have used one with that handle brake deal and itwas okay. Just try not too let loose of the handle until the chain is stopped or near stopped. I figure the brake system may take on more wear by releasing it with the chain moving fast over and over.
It would be a good safety feature for a beginner. At least you know the chain can't spin until you grip the handle. I would jump on that deal.
I would get a 20" bar and a full comp RM chain. They scream with the 20". Tell them you will take it as long as it has the "ES" bar and yellow label "rapid micro" chain.