Nik's Poulan Thread

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Needed a bar and chain combo for my new Canadian Poulan 3000. Baileys didn't have a 16" .325 bar so I called and they said the Arbormax AML 16 SJ58 would fit. Well, it fits but I don't believe the oil holes line up with the saws output hole. Very little, if no oil gets onto chain. I compared bars to an Oregon bar(A041 mount) that fits my 3000 and immediately noticed that the Oregon bar is oiled thru the chain adjustment holes. I probably should have gone 3/8 and I wouldn't have had this problem as the Arbormax is available in this pitch. Any suggestions . Do you think I can modify the oiler holes? This confirms the adage that "You get what you pay for".
Bob

It's not a matter of " you get what you pay for " ,, more like what you get when you buy from there !! i keep shaking my head wondering why anybody wastes thier time and money when better can be had for less..
checked out a full wrap for a dolmar today,,from a dealer,,%20 less than baileys and NO shipping charge.. go figure..
 
nthums1,
Not being familiar with this model so can't speak from experience. The IPL for this saw that I looked at, doesn't show the location of the vent. But, the parts that it shows for the vent, look to be like the setup on a 380. If thats the case, the tank vent is on the left side of the saw, there is a bronze or brass vent plug, with a duck-bill valve behind that. On the side of the tank.

:cheers:
Gregg,

That IPL is pretty messed up. First, it is low quality so you really can't zoom it and get detail. Second, it has errors, and apparently none of those that used it to locate the lines to the carburetor are present or they likely would have chimed in. It shows the pump line and fuel lines backwards. I've ran across a number of posts where they followed that IPL and then could not get saw to start.
I do not see anything that looks like what you described on the tank. When it is near empty, I'll look inside the tank to see if I can spot anything. The cap does not appear to have a vent and it is located at the bottom side when saw is upright. My concern is that I might be developing a vacuum in tank as it draws down fuel and thus working pump harder than it should along with creating a lean condition. I don't want that after my recent experience of seizing ring because of likely lean burn from dust plugging carburetor screen.
Thanks for input.
 
Personally prefer non safety chains. Possibility of kick back is there no matter the chain. Just as much depends on the experience level of the person sawing. Try to keep the bar out of any sort of bind. If kerf is closing up use a plastic or wood wedge to hold kerf open until cut is finished. Especially watch the top half of the curvature at the end of the bar from cutting. That's where a more serious kick back can start to occur.

Hand filing takes experience but there are multiple reasons to learn how. Cheaper, more convenient, less wear and tear on chains/longer life, often better/sharper chain... Probably best at this point to stay true to the angle that comes with the chain and let the cutter edge be your guide for this. The angle of the edge determines how aggressive the chain cuts and how durable it is in dirty "wood." Sharper the angle the more agressive but will dull quicker in dirty wood. If you are inexperienced, get some gadget to use as a filing guide. Most common is a clamp on device which helps you file with the correct angle and keeps the depth of the file correct with respect to the edge of the cutter tooth. There are other better devices including the File-O-Plate, (Two recent threads on this subject.) and Granberg filing device. Both of these are available from Bailey's, site sponsor. You need to research this to make sure you get what you need. Just keep practicing! :cheers:

Thanks. I'll take a look at what is available. My Dad used to keep a hard metal framed file holder. It was much better at not flexing than these cheapo ones that seem to be common.
I am concerned that taking it to a chain sharpening shop, they might grind too much as a matter of expediency. But, I've also thought that at least it would be a uniform correct grind if they set it up properly and use the proper grinding wheel. I would think that the angles and height would be locked in so even the depth gauge would be right on the money. And that it would hopefully perform like a new chain with factory sharpening.
 
That IPL is pretty messed up. First, it is low quality so you really can't zoom it and get detail. Second, it has errors, and apparently none of those that used it to locate the lines to the carburetor are present or they likely would have chimed in. It shows the pump line and fuel lines backwards. I've ran across a number of posts where they followed that IPL and then could not get saw to start.
I do not see anything that looks like what you described on the tank. When it is near empty, I'll look inside the tank to see if I can spot anything. The cap does not appear to have a vent and it is located at the bottom side when saw is upright. My concern is that I might be developing a vacuum in tank as it draws down fuel and thus working pump harder than it should along with creating a lean condition. I don't want that after my recent experience of seizing ring because of likely lean burn from dust plugging carburetor screen.
Thanks for input.



That IPL for that saw don't seemed messed up to me and would you post the errors in it so I can see them in case your right? The IPL that I have list all the parts needed for that fuel system and thats all a IPL is supposed to do.

Folks have chimed in and told you about the vent check valve but you apparently don't understand it.

Seems you need a copy of the service manual to show a picture and spell it out for you since you can't understand this simple setup. I just happen to have one but its a 20mg file that I don't like to bother sending it through email as alot of peoples ISP's wont allow a attachment that large.
 
That IPL is pretty messed up. First, it is low quality so you really can't zoom it and get detail. Second, it has errors, and apparently none of those that used it to locate the lines to the carburetor are present or they likely would have chimed in. It shows the pump line and fuel lines backwards. I've ran across a number of posts where they followed that IPL and then could not get saw to start.
I do not see anything that looks like what you described on the tank. When it is near empty, I'll look inside the tank to see if I can spot anything. The cap does not appear to have a vent and it is located at the bottom side when saw is upright. My concern is that I might be developing a vacuum in tank as it draws down fuel and thus working pump harder than it should along with creating a lean condition. I don't want that after my recent experience of seizing ring because of likely lean burn from dust plugging carburetor screen.
Thanks for input.


See if this helps any.
View attachment 138027

Look on page 2. Parts 36 & 46
I don't know if this is the setup that is on your saw or not. If it is, I think you have to seperate the crankcase section, from the handle/fuel tank section, to get to it.


Gregg,
 
I spent some time today working on my Dayton/Poulan 245SA. I put a carb kit in it, fixed the broken recoil spring, and attempted to fix the automatic oiler. I removed the tank and oiler from the saw. The manual oiler is working fine, but still no luck with the automotic oiler. It looks simple enough. The gear has a ramp on it, that activates a rocking arm every revolution of the crank, which then pushes in a rod, which has a spring under it. Nothing's blocked. What might be the problem here? I'm unsure as to what turns the gear? Is it just locked onto the crank by the pressure of the clutch torqued down. I don't have an IPL for this saw. Please let me know if someone has an electronic copy.
 
Okay, so looks like my Poulan/sears craftsman is needing a sprocket, so been told by dealers that they are no longer available.
Is there one that will fit mine, had it since the 70's, the guy at the store said for every three or so chains I should have been changing the sprocket, the chain on mine appears to have worn a groove in it.
It is a 14" and runs great, took two trees down with it last week, along with the wifes clothesline with clothes on it, but that is another story, anyway I tried to search for something in Canada, but have found info only in the states, like a possible 28006 from Oregon chainsaw makers called a consumer sprocket, mine I think used to be a sears number 530069301
Any help on this one?
saw001.jpg
 
Okay, so looks like my Poulan/sears craftsman is needing a sprocket, so been told by dealers that they are no longer available.
Is there one that will fit mine, had it since the 70's, the guy at the store said for every three or so chains I should have been changing the sprocket, the chain on mine appears to have worn a groove in it.
It is a 14" and runs great, took two trees down with it last week, along with the wifes clothesline with clothes on it, but that is another story, anyway I tried to search for something in Canada, but have found info only in the states, like a possible 28006 from Oregon chainsaw makers called a consumer sprocket, mine I think used to be a sears number 530069301
Any help on this one?

Try this one.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+28006&catID=10646
 
I spent some time today working on my Dayton/Poulan 245SA. I put a carb kit in it, fixed the broken recoil spring, and attempted to fix the automatic oiler. I removed the tank and oiler from the saw. The manual oiler is working fine, but still no luck with the automotic oiler. It looks simple enough. The gear has a ramp on it, that activates a rocking arm every revolution of the crank, which then pushes in a rod, which has a spring under it. Nothing's blocked. What might be the problem here? I'm unsure as to what turns the gear? Is it just locked onto the crank by the pressure of the clutch torqued down. I don't have an IPL for this saw. Please let me know if someone has an electronic copy.

A good sign is that the manual oiler works as the auto wont work when it wont.

Push that plunger in and out by hand and it should pump, if not check that quad ring on that plunger.

That brass gear should be free to spin in that housing and everytihing should be clean.

That oiler setup is about as reliable as I have ever seen.
 
That IPL for that saw don't seemed messed up to me and would you post the errors in it so I can see them in case your right? The IPL that I have list all the parts needed for that fuel system and thats all a IPL is supposed to do.

Folks have chimed in and told you about the vent check valve but you apparently don't understand it.

Seems you need a copy of the service manual to show a picture and spell it out for you since you can't understand this simple setup. I just happen to have one but its a 20mg file that I don't like to bother sending it through email as alot of peoples ISP's wont allow a attachment that large.

I have not yet found where that vent line is located.
And what is messed up is look closely at the lines on the carburetor. They are backwards and have gotten many newbies at a rebuild. The line with the fuel filter is shown located on the connection for the pump diaphram. And the fuel inlet is shown connected to the crankcase line.
It is not only this saw they have backwards but the 3000 as well.
 
See if this helps any.
View attachment 138027

Look on page 2. Parts 36 & 46
I don't know if this is the setup that is on your saw or not. If it is, I think you have to seperate the crankcase section, from the handle/fuel tank section, to get to it.


Gregg,

Thanks Gregg. This drawing is interesting in that this might be what applies to my saw. It would certainly explain why I could not see any line for venting. And as I said earlier, the drawing for mine is messed up and poor quality. At least this one is clear and they have the lines properly connected to the carburetor.
 
3500 Vroom!

Put it to some wood yesterday. Hard pine, oak, silver maple, and sweet gum. Chips sure fly.
But it appears I may have to tinker a bit more. Idle setting needs frequent resetting. Good power in cut with just a hint of four cycling with no load WOT.
Certainly I will look for that vent line some more. I might also need to go into carburetor one more time. Two possibilities come to mind and they are low float lever or debris on high speed screen. Rechecking carb specs, it calls for the lever to just tough adjustment guage. Out of the box it seemed to be less than a hair short of doing that and I thought that was close enough. Don't know that I can bend it that much without overshooting the mark but I might have to try. And pop that welch plug just to look at screen.
Other suggestions welcome.
I suspected that it might take a few adjustments after the new ring, but I think it has done enough cutting that I should be past that point.
 
something i've been working on...

nwbns7.jpg

5al4ap.jpg

roughing them in:
ruvegx.jpg

2whm1aw.jpg


hmmmm that aint the stock carb...

qysrhl.jpg

23tqkh5.jpg

1fuufn.jpg


very tight under there...

hrcuj7.jpg


the saw flows alot more air. the stock airfilter chokes it down almost 2000rpm
i don't have a pic yet but i ended up modifying the a.f. with a small micron stainless screen (like the screen used in other saws filters but just a touch smaller). thing 4strokes at 13500.
 

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