Nik's Poulan Thread

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OhioGregg said:
Yes, I do recall you saying that the gasket could be found. :dizzy: and the stories of trying to make one. There was a lot of info pretty much going in one ear and out the other that morning we were all looking at this saw..LOL

I got the leak on it stoped, for now anyway. So, I'm not going to replace it right away, but have it just in case I need it.
I took the "parts saw" apart, to see how everything goes together on these.
I had a heck of a time getting the clutch off of it. Lets just say, I wouldn't have wanted that video taped! :D Combination of parts loosener, 2 nails, and a big screw driver finally prevailed. When I found that the tool was available, I pounced on that..lol
As much as I like the 245, it sure ain't no picnic working on one as the 3400-4000 series of saws.

Thanks for the past advice, and I'm sure more that will be needed in the future!
:cheers:
Gregg,
Click to expand...

You got the clutch tool now so the rest of it is just as easy as the 3400's except the left lower carb screw.

I just think its different to you and once you get used to them there a piece of cake.
 
Modifiedmark said:
You got the clutch tool now so the rest of it is just as easy as the 3400's except the left lower carb screw.

I just think its different to you and once you get used to them there a piece of cake.
Click to expand...

The lower left carb screw used to be a pain now it's a cake walk.:cheers:
 
I dont know how well these will show up but here are some interesting adds for Craftsman saws from Sears.

attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php
 
Modifiedmark said:
Why yes it is since I ground down the box end of a craftsman 5/16" ign wrench. LOL. ;)
Click to expand...

I use the open end of the 5/16''. Hold the trigger with the right hand to make room around the linkage and use the same hand to hold the little carb screw driver and push the carb bolt towards the carb and turn the 5/16'' wrench with the other hand.
 
Modifiedmark said:
I dont know how well these will show up but here are some interesting adds for Craftsman saws from Sears.

attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php
Click to expand...

And to think the neighbors think my weed eater sounds mean now LOL!

It's hard too believe they got 30 and 40 bucks for that JUNK power sharp system is'nt it.:laugh:
 
ms460woodchuck said:
I use the open end of the 5/16''. Hold the trigger with the right hand to make room around the linkage and use the same hand to hold the little carb screw driver and push the carb bolt towards the carb and turn the 5/16'' wrench with the other hand.
Click to expand...

John, What position does ones tongue have to be in to accomplish all of this? :ices_rofl:

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
3500

No one apparently knows the answer as to where the fuel vent is for this saw?
Parts came in and I spent most of yesterday tinkering. Remove every bit of carbon from top of jug. I noticed that the area around the plug cavity was not machined at all. Looked like it was cast, so I have to wonder if it was supposed to be like that? Maybe I got shorted a little metal by a poor casting? I smoothed that area up a little.
The gasket set is almost confusing. Looks like it was meant for three different saws since there are three of some gaskets with slight variations. I did learn that the exhaust gasket I previously ordered separately is not the exact match for my saw. Bolt holes in it are for bigger bolts.
Two pulls and it fired but would not go above idle. OOPS! Forgot to fully connect and tighten intake boot.
Fired right up and proceeded to adjust with long periods of idling to give a chance of break-in and seating. Running a bit on rich side of course, thinking that is the thing to do.
I think I should of dumped the oil resorvoir first. Chain oil puddles.
Wound it up a few times and shut down to give it a heat soak.
I don't seem to have the initial settings for carburetor. Anyone know what they are for this saw?
Is lock-tite a requirement?
After giving it a second warm up and soak, I discover that it backed all three bolts completely out on muffler? And one of the screws for the top cover. I did Lock-tite these, but not sure the stuff I have is for high temp situations. I'll have to keep an eye on it.
Sharpened chain so I should be able to cut some wood. It sounds like a new saw but want to see how it does under load before leaning the high speed too much.
Saw came with two chains and have done very little cutting with this second one so I was a bit disappointed by the looks of the chain. I have to wonder if bits of debris were grown into those trees I was cutting last. And too, some trees are just a pain to cut because the kerf will start to close when you get most of the way through.
Actually, I might be happy when I wear these 76 chains out. Darned 4.5mm file needed and it seems the filing instructions are wrong. They say 25 degrees but it seems to be 30 out of the box. I think they are 76SL, a low-kickback.
What chain have you all found that works great on this saw?
How much is the danger increased by going to one of the non-low kickback for this machine?
I recently put one of those on my little XL and it cuts better than ever, until I had to do first filing. Pretty much makes me wonder if filing is worthwhile. Maybe professional grinding is better? Your thoughts?
And that little saw is a lot less power and weight to deal with if it should kick-back.
 
Last edited:
nthums1 said:
No one apparently knows the answer as to where the fuel vent is for this saw?
Parts came in and I spent most of yesterday tinkering. Remove every bit of carbon from top of jug. I noticed that the area around the plug cavity was not machined at all. Looked like it was cast, so I have to wonder if it was supposed to be like that? Maybe I got shorted a little metal by a poor casting? I smoothed that area up a little.
The gasket set is almost confusing. Looks like it was meant for three different saws since there are three of some gaskets with slight variations. I did learn that the exhaust gasket I previously ordered separately is not the exact match for my saw. Bolt holes in it are for bigger bolts.
Two pulls and it fired but would not go above idle. OOPS! Forgot to fully connect and tighten intake boot.
Fired right up and proceeded to adjust with long periods of idling to give a chance of break-in and seating. Running a bit on rich side of course, thinking that is the thing to do.
I think I should of dumped the oil resorvoir first. Chain oil puddles.
Wound it up a few times and shut down to give it a heat soak.
I don't seem to have the initial settings for carburetor. Anyone know what they are for this saw?
Is lock-tite a requirement?
After giving it a second warm up and soak, I discover that it backed all three bolts completely out on muffler? And one of the screws for the top cover. I did Lock-tite these, but not sure the stuff I have is for high temp situations. I'll have to keep an eye on it.
Sharpened chain so I should be able to cut some wood. It sounds like a new saw but want to see how it does under load before leaning the high speed too much.
Saw came with two chains and have done very little cutting with this second one so I was a bit disappointed by the looks of the chain. I have to wonder if bits of debris were grown into those trees I was cutting last. And too, some trees are just a pain to cut because the kerf will start to close when you get most of the way through.
Actually, I might be happy when I wear these 76 chains out. Darned 4.5mm file needed and it seems the filing instructions are wrong. They say 25 degrees but it seems to be 30 out of the box. I think they are 76SL, a low-kickback.
What chain have you all found that works great on this saw?
How much is the danger increased by going to one of the non-low kickback for this machine?
I recently put one of those on my little XL and it cuts better than ever, until I had to do first filing. Pretty much makes me wonder if filing is worthwhile. Maybe professional grinding is better? Your thoughts?
And that little saw is a lot less power and weight to deal with if it should kick-back.
Click to expand...
Wow...that's a lot to deal with but since no one answered, I'll try. About the fuel vent. I'm not familiar with this particular saw but it has to be either on the fuel cap or a little hose sticking into the tank with a duckbill valve on it. Maybe vented another way, but that's the two ways I'm familiar with. Homelite sticks a duckbill valve right on the top of the tank on some models. Loctite is not a requirement on exhaust bolts, usually not needed. As for the machining, I've had several engines that weren't machined around the spark plug, so probably not a matter of getting a thin one. Gaskets for more than one unit is very common, they do it on many things, not just saws. As far as chains and bars, I won't comment because people have their preferences.
 
3500

nthums1,
Not being familiar with this model so can't speak from experience. The IPL for this saw that I looked at, doesn't show the location of the vent. But, the parts that it shows for the vent, look to be like the setup on a 380. If thats the case, the tank vent is on the left side of the saw, there is a bronze or brass vent plug, with a duck-bill valve behind that. On the side of the tank.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
nthums1 said:
Sharpened chain so I should be able to cut some wood. It sounds like a new saw but want to see how it does under load before leaning the high speed too much.
Saw came with two chains and have done very little cutting with this second one so I was a bit disappointed by the looks of the chain. I have to wonder if bits of debris were grown into those trees I was cutting last. And too, some trees are just a pain to cut because the kerf will start to close when you get most of the way through.
Actually, I might be happy when I wear these 76 chains out. Darned 4.5mm file needed and it seems the filing instructions are wrong. They say 25 degrees but it seems to be 30 out of the box. I think they are 76SL, a low-kickback.
What chain have you all found that works great on this saw?
Click to expand...

Personally prefer non safety chains. Possibility of kick back is there no matter the chain. Just as much depends on the experience level of the person sawing. Try to keep the bar out of any sort of bind. If kerf is closing up use a plastic or wood wedge to hold kerf open until cut is finished. Especially watch the top half of the curvature at the end of the bar from cutting. That's where a more serious kick back can start to occur.

Hand filing takes experience but there are multiple reasons to learn how. Cheaper, more convenient, less wear and tear on chains/longer life, often better/sharper chain... Probably best at this point to stay true to the angle that comes with the chain and let the cutter edge be your guide for this. The angle of the edge determines how aggressive the chain cuts and how durable it is in dirty "wood." Sharper the angle the more agressive but will dull quicker in dirty wood. If you are inexperienced, get some gadget to use as a filing guide. Most common is a clamp on device which helps you file with the correct angle and keeps the depth of the file correct with respect to the edge of the cutter tooth. There are other better devices including the File-O-Plate, (Two recent threads on this subject.) and Granberg filing device. Both of these are available from Bailey's, site sponsor. You need to research this to make sure you get what you need. Just keep practicing! :cheers:
 
67 Mustang said:
Personally prefer non safety chains. Possibility of kick back is there no matter the chain. Just as much depends on the experience level of the person sawing. Try to keep the bar out of any sort of bind. If kerf is closing up use a plastic or wood wedge to hold kerf open until cut is finished. Especially watch the top half of the curvature at the end of the bar from cutting. That's where a more serious kick back can start to occur.

Hand filing takes experience but there are multiple reasons to learn how. Cheaper, more convenient, less wear and tear on chains/longer life, often better/sharper chain... Probably best at this point to stay true to the angle that comes with the chain and let the cutter edge be your guide for this. The angle of the edge determines how aggressive the chain cuts and how durable it is in dirty "wood." Sharper the angle the more agressive but will dull quicker in dirty wood. If you are inexperienced, get some gadget to use as a filing guide. Most common is a clamp on device which helps you file with the correct angle and keeps the depth of the file correct with respect to the edge of the cutter tooth. There are other better devices including the File-O-Plate, (Two recent threads on this subject.) and Granberg filing device. Both of these are available from Bailey's, site sponsor. You need to research this to make sure you get what you need. Just keep practicing! :cheers:
Click to expand...

And be sure to use the correct file size for your chain.
 
got my 4.2/24" in the mail yesterday. it is a real cream puff for its age. haven't ran it yet but will later today. will post some pictures later. if anyone has a small older poulan metal case i am looking for one. want a small bar also 10 or 12" at most. pm me can be running or not as long as it is fixable and looks decent. thanks
jnl
 
jnl502 said:
if anyone has a small older poulan metal case i am looking for one. want a small bar also 10 or 12" at most. pm me can be running or not as long as it is fixable and looks decent. thanks
jnl
Click to expand...

I got a whole pile of Poulan 25's. Most will run with a bit of elbow grease. I got pics somewhere.....I'll try to dig them up.

Here is a pic...

picture.php
 

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