Nik's Poulan Thread

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Never noticed the oiler though I wouldn't have bid on them. Had one and believe me it doesn't do very much. Definetly doesn't increase flow, which is why I believe it was deleted from later saws. Impulse driven pumps just aren't that efficient

I tend to agree with you Bob. Assuming that they have the same type oiler, I can only see the adjustable part as making it put out less oil. I can't imagine how it would make it put out more. Thats why I always liked the added manual oiler on that line of saws. I work that manual oiler quite a bit while cutting with these saws.

Gregg,
 
Theres a 3400 20-25 miles from me for $30. So have at it.

Now if it was a 3300 335 3450 330 I would be on it.

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Ordered caber rings for my 3400 and received them today. They have notched ends rather than the flat ends like the worn out rings I'm replacing. The gap measures 0.020". This seems to be slightly larger than optimal which should be between 0.0072 and 0.0144". Nevertheless it's much better than the 0.07" that was on there.
I'm concerned that the notched rings may not fit around the posts in the piston. They seem to fit but haven't tried putting cylinder on yet. Anyone ever put notched rings on a 3400?
Also, which side goes up?
 
Never noticed the oiler though I wouldn't have bid on them. Had one and believe me it doesn't do very much. Definetly doesn't increase flow, which is why I believe it was deleted from later saws. Impulse driven pumps just aren't that efficient

It was just the novelty of an older saw. They do not make a difference. I have to have mine fully opened.
 
Thanks Guido, still could somebody give me some input on how each a performs against the other? I know the Poulan 655 (Partner p62) seems to outperform the Poulan 6000 (Dolmar 153).
 
I have a number of 655's and they will out cut a 5200 (as they should with 13 more cc's). I have never run a 6000, but do own a 5500. The P-65/655 saws are my favorites of the bunch.
 
Ordered caber rings for my 3400 and received them today. They have notched ends rather than the flat ends like the worn out rings I'm replacing. The gap measures 0.020". This seems to be slightly larger than optimal which should be between 0.0072 and 0.0144". Nevertheless it's much better than the 0.07" that was on there.
I'm concerned that the notched rings may not fit around the posts in the piston. They seem to fit but haven't tried putting cylinder on yet. Anyone ever put notched rings on a 3400?
Also, which side goes up?
Typically the notched rings are used when the ring pins are on the upper half of the ring groove. Not the case with the 3400 thru 4000 saws. I received some 3400 rings from the "Greek" but they were blunt ended. I would try the ones you have and see if the long end of the notch fits better on top or bottom without interfering when compressing them when fitting the cylinder. Maybe you can grind down the long end if they do touch.
Bob
 
I tend to agree with you Bob. Assuming that they have the same type oiler, I can only see the adjustable part as making it put out less oil. I can't imagine how it would make it put out more. Thats why I always liked the added manual oiler on that line of saws. I work that manual oiler quite a bit while cutting with these saws.

Gregg,
Gregg, as I recall ,the oilers look exactly the same with the exception of the adjusting screw.
 
Gregg, as I recall ,the oilers look exactly the same with the exception of the adjusting screw.

Yes, they are identical. The screw acts similar to a gate valve in one of the channels. When it is backed out entirely in the body of the pump, the channel is entirely unrestricted. At this setting, it operates as the non-adjustable pump would.

A unnecessary feature on a moderate output pump at best.

I must say though, they do perk up nicely with the custom diaphragms.
 
Typically the notched rings are used when the ring pins are on the upper half of the ring groove. Not the case with the 3400 thru 4000 saws. I received some 3400 rings from the "Greek" but they were blunt ended. I would try the ones you have and see if the long end of the notch fits better on top or bottom without interfering when compressing them when fitting the cylinder. Maybe you can grind down the long end if they do touch.
Bob
Hey bob
ended up filing the ends. Reassembled and got it to pop but then my rope pulled out. What is the starting carb settings for a MM 3400? Pre-tear down was 3/4 on L and 1-1/4 on H
 
I
Hey bob
ended up filing the ends. Reassembled and got it to pop but then my rope pulled out. What is the starting carb settings for a MM 3400? Pre-tear down was 3/4 on L and 1-1/4 on H
I start at 1 turn open for each. Adjust from there. For a muff mod, you may have to set the hi a little rich. Best bet is to get it to 4 stroke but clean up in the cut. Don't expect high rpm's as 10,500 is pretty good.
 
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