Nik's Poulan Thread

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Blisters said:
Ok here's the thing with the Kohler.went got a compression tester it's got 100 psi. Carb is clean. Got fire at plug. All down to a couple of safety switches that seem to check out OK and a fuel shut off made into the bowl on the carb. Valves? Pushrod?
Starting to think bent pushrod.
Click to expand...
Have you tried to spray starting fluid and jump it at the coil? Sorry coming in late

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Blisters said:
Naw ain't tried that. Good idea.
Click to expand...
Should you have any (blow back)through the carb at all? I wouldn't think so but I want to ask to be sure. Also I'm not sure of auto shut off on carb bowl is opening when u turn the key on. Some way to do away with it and use a simple cut off valve?
 
You can clean them also with a mild solvent and oil. Sometimes they get gummy

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Blisters said:
Should you have any (blow back)through the carb at all? I wouldn't think so but I want to ask to be sure. Also I'm not sure of auto shut off on carb bowl is opening when u turn the key on. Some way to do away with it and use a simple cut off valve?
Click to expand...

If it has a Walbro carb I would take a look at the needle on the bowl. It looks like those have a fuel shut off solenoid - check the wiring to make sure there are no shorts. Last year the riding mower at camp was action goofy. I tried everything with nothing working... Eventually I tightened the electrical connections around that carb and it was like magic.


Kohler service manual

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/20_690_01_EN.pdf
 
ChipsFlyin said:
Blow back could be a stuck valve.
Click to expand...
Yes sir, or maybe even a bent pushrod. This husqvarna mower has been nothing but trouble. I'll never buy another one like this. All started with the deck. That stamped deck is a pice of crap and the lifting linkage design is the worst I have ever seen. I love there saws but there mowers, at least the one I got are crap.
 
Hi guys.......I got a 3800 saw here on the bench for a friend......doesn't seem to want to hold pressure or vac for more than a few seconds.....do these crank seals cross to something that can be had at a bearing supply house? Don't really know how much he wants to put into this .....so trying to get a idea what the parts situation is like....pardon my ignorance...and thanks for any input.....also any opinions on this model would be helpful....it looks to be fairly low hour and in good overall condition.
 
Cantdog said:
Hi guys.......I got a 3800 saw here on the bench for a friend......doesn't seem to want to hold pressure or vac for more than a few seconds.....do these crank seals cross to something that can be had at a bearing supply house? Don't really know how much he wants to put into this .....so trying to get a idea what the parts situation is like....pardon my ignorance...and thanks for any input.....also any opinions on this model would be helpful....it looks to be fairly low hour and in good overall condition.
Click to expand...
3800 solid saw.
 
Cantdog said:
Hi guys.......I got a 3800 saw here on the bench for a friend......doesn't seem to want to hold pressure or vac for more than a few seconds.....do these crank seals cross to something that can be had at a bearing supply house? Don't really know how much he wants to put into this .....so trying to get a idea what the parts situation is like....pardon my ignorance...and thanks for any input.....also any opinions on this model would be helpful....it looks to be fairly low hour and in good overall condition.
Click to expand...

Not sure, but you can probably find them locally. I don't recall the seal # and my parts list is at home. But I get seals for my 4200/5200's locally through O'Reilly Auto Parts and they are like $6 a piece.
 
Cantdog said:
Hi guys.......I got a 3800 saw here on the bench for a friend......doesn't seem to want to hold pressure or vac for more than a few seconds.....do these crank seals cross to something that can be had at a bearing supply house? Don't really know how much he wants to put into this .....so trying to get a idea what the parts situation is like....pardon my ignorance...and thanks for any input.....also any opinions on this model would be helpful....it looks to be fairly low hour and in good overall condition.
Click to expand...
Great series of saws. Robust and dependable. No 630 Super though.

I've used SKF 6119 on both sides. Easy as pie. Carb kits are D10/K10-HDB. Careful with the metering plate. It has a staked-on metering lever. Don't know if they are NLA. Oiler are impulse driven. They can be easily removed and cleaned. Tygon for new pickup is a certain. The old black lines crack and fail. New lines and vent in tank as well. Be mindful of the small plastic nipple in the tank that terminates the duckbill and friction fits the vent line. Carb should tune up at about 1 1/8 L and 1 H.

Seals, fuel filter/kit and a bit of line $20 or so.
 
Hoggwood said:
Great series of saws. Robust and dependable. No 630 Super though.

I've used SKF 6119 on both sides. Easy as pie. Carb kits are D10/K10-HDB. Careful with the metering plate. It has a staked-on metering lever. Don't know if they are NLA. Oiler are impulse driven. They can be easily removed and cleaned. Tygon for new pickup is a certain. The old black lines crack and fail. New lines and vent in tank as well. Be mindful of the small plastic nipple in the tank that terminates the duckbill and friction fits the vent line. Carb should tune up at about 1 1/8 L and 1 H.

Seals, fuel filter/kit and a bit of line $20 or so.
Click to expand...
Great direction and info.

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Hoggwood said:
Great series of saws. Robust and dependable. No 630 Super though.

I've used SKF 6119 on both sides. Easy as pie. Carb kits are D10/K10-HDB. Careful with the metering plate. It has a staked-on metering lever. Don't know if they are NLA. Oiler are impulse driven. They can be easily removed and cleaned. Tygon for new pickup is a certain. The old black lines crack and fail. New lines and vent in tank as well. Be mindful of the small plastic nipple in the tank that terminates the duckbill and friction fits the vent line. Carb should tune up at about 1 1/8 L and 1 H.

Seals, fuel filter/kit and a bit of line $20 or so.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input....a staked on metering lever? How does that work?......does it have to be removed the change metering valve?

Someone worked on this earlier.....it has a fresh tygon fuel line but the work tag on the handle said it wouldn't pull fuel from the tank.....figured a carb kit for sure but did a pressure vac test just to see what was up...... the big picture. Will have to verify my sealing rigs with some soap and water.....leaked about the same speed on pressure as vac.....usually seals leak more in one direction than the other....
 
Cantdog said:
Thanks for the input....a staked on metering lever? How does that work?......does it have to be removed the change metering valve?

Someone worked on this earlier.....it has a fresh tygon fuel line but the work tag on the handle said it wouldn't pull fuel from the tank.....figured a carb kit for sure but did a pressure vac test just to see what was up...... the big picture. Will have to verify my sealing rigs with some soap and water.....leaked about the same speed on pressure as vac.....usually seals leak more in one direction than the other....
Click to expand...

Carb adapter/carb gasket. Impulse there could be leaking and not pulling fuel as well.

Carb has a metering circuit plate and the lever is fixed or staked to the plate. Full kit only comes with the needle.
 
Hello all I have a craftsman 2.0 that hasn't been run in 13 years. Replaced fuel filter and line and retuned for 40:1 saw runs great. Now on to my question the lines are in pieces in the bar oil tank will I need to split the case to replace them.IMG_20160429_013738.jpg
 
Hoggwood said:
Carb adapter/carb gasket. Impulse there could be leaking and not pulling fuel as well.

Carb has a metering circuit plate and the lever is fixed or staked to the plate. Full kit only comes with the needle.
Click to expand...

Hmmm......that's where I stopped off the intake for the test......made a rubber gasket and sandwiched it between the carb and intake without the regular gasket....made it larger on the bottom to cover the impulse corridor...used hard grease on the gasket as a lubricant/sealer......assuming it's tight......original gasket looked really good so I don't think that was leaking.....but soap/water will tell the tale...
 

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